I used to love driving at night. I had a couple of Hella 100W driving lights on the front of my Morris 1100, coupled with 60W halogen 7" headlights that replaced the original sealed beams. Man that lit up the road. I'd sometimes overtake trucks, and when they dipped their high beam, and I put mine on it would often be better!
I however hate driving at night in the rain!! Something about the reflections off the road make the light seem so much weaker.
I believe that in the NT there is a highway that goes from I think Adelaide to Darwin that is a no speedlimit road. I think it is known colloquially as "the cannon ball run"
Police can still pull you over if you are doing something really stupid, It's like the old cut out signs, they had no limit, but you had to be driving to the condtions.
I've always wanted to go there to try out my car. It can supposedly do 215, and it would be nice to see if it really can (maybe not now that it already has 250,000KM on the clock)
Tony.
I however hate driving at night in the rain!! Something about the reflections off the road make the light seem so much weaker.
I believe that in the NT there is a highway that goes from I think Adelaide to Darwin that is a no speedlimit road. I think it is known colloquially as "the cannon ball run"
Police can still pull you over if you are doing something really stupid, It's like the old cut out signs, they had no limit, but you had to be driving to the condtions.
I've always wanted to go there to try out my car. It can supposedly do 215, and it would be nice to see if it really can (maybe not now that it already has 250,000KM on the clock)
Tony.
Sorry to break it to you, but fwd was spawned by safety and packaging rationale and definitely not performance! There’s a reason F-1 cars aren’t fwd...
The best fwd car I have ever driven was the original Mini, at 1,300 pounds it was a great handler, like a go-cart for the street. Still required a lot of attention at the limit.
I can’t imagine those high wattage lights on one of those cars, most had generators and required a deep cycle battery in order to sustain a charge for more than a week.
The first mx5 were 2400 pounds, curb weight, not really so light for the small size anyways.
About the same as my fiat spider, I was driving during that time, but that had a 2l engine...
A very similar looking Lotus Elan weighed only 1,500 pounds by comparison.
The best fwd car I have ever driven was the original Mini, at 1,300 pounds it was a great handler, like a go-cart for the street. Still required a lot of attention at the limit.
I can’t imagine those high wattage lights on one of those cars, most had generators and required a deep cycle battery in order to sustain a charge for more than a week.
The first mx5 were 2400 pounds, curb weight, not really so light for the small size anyways.
About the same as my fiat spider, I was driving during that time, but that had a 2l engine...
A very similar looking Lotus Elan weighed only 1,500 pounds by comparison.
That is what I said. FWD is perfect for the street, but RWD best for the track. (Unless you are racing a hot hatch in which FWD is best)
The stupidest idea ever though would have to be the V8 FWD land yaught.
There are some examples though of good FWD production cars: YouTube
YouTube
Could you imagine how quick a bi-engine bi-turbo 2x 1000hp 2AZ-FE hot hatch or sedan with a massive fuel tank just behind the drivers seat would be? A run of the mill FWD car makes a great starting point for a bi-engine conversion.
If I were to do it though I would slant the front and rear engine towards the center of the car to move some of that weight inwards.
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haha, you think that I think that my morrie 1100 was a performance vehicle? Standard trim it had 50 BHP (800KG kerb weight) and would do around 82MPH.
The generator died and I put a Bosh alternator which I got from the wreckers. Lucky for me my friends Dad was an auto electrician, and knew how to convert it from positive to negative earth.
So with the alternator I had no problems driving the lights. I'll have a photo somewhere. Just have to find it
edit: The handling of the morris 1100 was very good. My 306 S16 which replaced it, has three times the power (though it weighs half as much again) and absolutely leaves it for dead in the handling dept. It's not a performance vehicle either, but on a twisty road, man is it fun!
Tony.
Standard trim it had 50 BHP (800KG kerb weight) and would do around 82MPH. The generator died and I put a Bosh alternator which I got from the wreckers. Lucky for me my friends Dad was an auto electrician, and knew how to convert it from positive to negative earth.
So with the alternator I had no problems driving the lights. I'll have a photo somewhere. Just have to find it
edit: The handling of the morris 1100 was very good. My 306 S16 which replaced it, has three times the power (though it weighs half as much again) and absolutely leaves it for dead in the handling dept. It's not a performance vehicle either, but on a twisty road, man is it fun!
Tony.
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That Morris was pretty much a mini as I recall, if not very close, just slower, but very nimble I’m sure. Pretty cool with an upgraded electrical system I’ll bet.
With some investing so much in fwd upgrades, I am surprised that so very few have converted them to mid engined. The second generation Acura integra would be a good candidate.
Have you seen how the fwd drag cars fix the rear suspension solid for weight transfer compensation? Makes for some spectacular spin outs...
I wonder how a twin engined car would handle?
I wanted to use the v8/transaxle from an early 70s Oldsmobile and put it in the back of a first generation Chevy Blazer, like a drag boat for the street. Had to abandon the project.
With some investing so much in fwd upgrades, I am surprised that so very few have converted them to mid engined. The second generation Acura integra would be a good candidate.
Have you seen how the fwd drag cars fix the rear suspension solid for weight transfer compensation? Makes for some spectacular spin outs...
I wonder how a twin engined car would handle?
I wanted to use the v8/transaxle from an early 70s Oldsmobile and put it in the back of a first generation Chevy Blazer, like a drag boat for the street. Had to abandon the project.
I have no problem driving RWD cars on the street. Both me and my wife drives RWD every day without sliding around, loosing control and doing burnouts.
I don't like the feel of FWD cars, therefore I stick with RWD.
I don't think my RWD hatchback would have problems keeping up with FWD hatchbacks on a track. Why do you think FWD will be better for racing?
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Doing a purge of some images. Here is what I've been up to over the last 2-3 weeks.
1) Used KS Bond to reattach some plastic air vents to the plastic dash to stop them rattling.
2) Placed weather stripping on the inside of the air vents to allow the closure of the air vents and force all air up to the windscreen, or wherever I want to just like a new car. The old weather stripping was rotted away, this restores factory operation.
3) Pulled then Ultrasonically cleaned all of the spark plugs.
4) Removed the radiator and condenser in preperation for the condenser to be replaced and I also removed the A/C compressor so that I can rebuild it.
5) Used CT14 Engine & Bilge Degreaser and a small wire brush to clean the front of both the engine block and transmission (important for air cooling of the transmission).
6) Sprayed WD40 White Lithium grease all over the bonnet latch and adjusted the bonnet so that it is flush with the rest of the body frame/mud guards by adding a washer underneath the latch thing on the bonnet itself.
7) Replaced the 10mm ID rubber power steering hose connecting the radiator's hydraulic powered fan and the power steering fluid cooling fins/tube.
8) Replaced the split loom tubing going to the alternator and A/C compressor and wrapped the wire tightly all in brand new red electrical tape and black duct tape, also added multiple layers of duct tape including a layer of gorilla tape to prevent damage from a drive belt flying off.
9) Cleaned the spark plug tubes with two layers of tissue that has been sufficiently soaked in white spirits.
10) ... And finally, indexed and numbered all of the spark plugs then applied Permatex anti-seize to the thread of each spark plug and tightened them all down using feel.
What have you done lately?
1) Used KS Bond to reattach some plastic air vents to the plastic dash to stop them rattling.
2) Placed weather stripping on the inside of the air vents to allow the closure of the air vents and force all air up to the windscreen, or wherever I want to just like a new car. The old weather stripping was rotted away, this restores factory operation.
3) Pulled then Ultrasonically cleaned all of the spark plugs.
4) Removed the radiator and condenser in preperation for the condenser to be replaced and I also removed the A/C compressor so that I can rebuild it.
5) Used CT14 Engine & Bilge Degreaser and a small wire brush to clean the front of both the engine block and transmission (important for air cooling of the transmission).
6) Sprayed WD40 White Lithium grease all over the bonnet latch and adjusted the bonnet so that it is flush with the rest of the body frame/mud guards by adding a washer underneath the latch thing on the bonnet itself.
7) Replaced the 10mm ID rubber power steering hose connecting the radiator's hydraulic powered fan and the power steering fluid cooling fins/tube.
8) Replaced the split loom tubing going to the alternator and A/C compressor and wrapped the wire tightly all in brand new red electrical tape and black duct tape, also added multiple layers of duct tape including a layer of gorilla tape to prevent damage from a drive belt flying off.
9) Cleaned the spark plug tubes with two layers of tissue that has been sufficiently soaked in white spirits.
10) ... And finally, indexed and numbered all of the spark plugs then applied Permatex anti-seize to the thread of each spark plug and tightened them all down using feel.
What have you done lately?
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2nd set of pics:
Notice in the 1st pic how on the radiator fan shroud there are rubber mats there to keep air from coming through, possibly to aid in warming up during cold winter mornings or aid in cooling while at highway speeds, not entirely sure. Could also be a fuel economy/aerodynamic improvement sort of job to prevent excess air from coming through at moderate speeds.
Notice the circle thing in the 4th pic along, not sure what it is but it appears to be some kind of sensor as it attaches to an electrical connector (and nothing else besides mounting to the frame), possibly a sensor for the airbag system, just a guess.
Notice in the 1st pic how on the radiator fan shroud there are rubber mats there to keep air from coming through, possibly to aid in warming up during cold winter mornings or aid in cooling while at highway speeds, not entirely sure. Could also be a fuel economy/aerodynamic improvement sort of job to prevent excess air from coming through at moderate speeds.
Notice the circle thing in the 4th pic along, not sure what it is but it appears to be some kind of sensor as it attaches to an electrical connector (and nothing else besides mounting to the frame), possibly a sensor for the airbag system, just a guess.
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In any of my cars once the A/C stops blowing cold it's an excuse to remove the system. Goodby to the weight and drag on the motor not to mention the condenser in front of the radiator.
Some more recent race photos. Mine is the black civic. The other cars are to show what I'm on track with. At the level I drive, and I imagine this is true for most of us, The car need only work well. The lap times have much more to do with the competence of the driver then the car.
Some more recent race photos. Mine is the black civic. The other cars are to show what I'm on track with. At the level I drive, and I imagine this is true for most of us, The car need only work well. The lap times have much more to do with the competence of the driver then the car.
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All along the way … I have been into high HP/TRQ cars and always found ways to get more.... turbo charging, supercharging, nitrous... and combinations of high boost tubro and high HP nitrous at same time. Of course everything else was upgraded along with the power increases. Handling too.
BUT, today's HiPo cars are amazing. Intelligent suspension control and so much more. Far beyond what I could do in my garage. So, I started with HiPo car and upped it from there for over the top performance. several small and big block Corvettes and new ZR1. Upped the power on the light weight ZR1 also until it was just outright scary to drive on the street. Balance? with trans and diff in rear - 50-50 weight distribution. Several CTS-V's. The latest is a true sleeper super car. Starting with 640HP and set up for racing right off the show room floor. I have had it on the track, too. I am going to pump it up a little. Nothing much else to do... it is the complete deal. I think a 2 psi increase will add another 50+ HP to take to a nice even 700 streetable HP.
Anyone here doing up a late model CTS-V? I have a lot of experience on GM and Ford 5.0 and older Chryslers. about 50 years worth.
THx-Richard Marsh
BUT, today's HiPo cars are amazing. Intelligent suspension control and so much more. Far beyond what I could do in my garage. So, I started with HiPo car and upped it from there for over the top performance. several small and big block Corvettes and new ZR1. Upped the power on the light weight ZR1 also until it was just outright scary to drive on the street. Balance? with trans and diff in rear - 50-50 weight distribution. Several CTS-V's. The latest is a true sleeper super car. Starting with 640HP and set up for racing right off the show room floor. I have had it on the track, too. I am going to pump it up a little. Nothing much else to do... it is the complete deal. I think a 2 psi increase will add another 50+ HP to take to a nice even 700 streetable HP.
Anyone here doing up a late model CTS-V? I have a lot of experience on GM and Ford 5.0 and older Chryslers. about 50 years worth.
THx-Richard Marsh
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Yes they were sold in the US as the Austin America. That had a 1275 motor, mines got the 1098cc
The other major modification to the electrcals was a transistor assiseted ignition with a hall effect sensor. No more cutting out when it rained
Other mods over the years included, extractors, mild cam grind, twin SU's ported head, bigger valves, stonger valve springs, a taller diff and poly bushes in the suspension.
It's sitting in the garage at the moment looking rather sad waiting for me to get back to the restoration. pic is sans driving lights (not the original body). Alternator is also now a prince of darkness, as the bosch one eventually died.
Tony,
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I think what I was going for when I said that was an obscure point involving most hatchbacks being FWD and very little being RWD.
Nothing to worry about folks.
I think you own a lighter european RWD car with IRS? We have plenty of cheap aussie RWD cars here with solid rear axle coil or leaf springs and thats what I've only ever bought but they are really twitchy in the rear and will easily fishtail at any time just like a Mustang. Plus it rains often here, like 9 months out of the year.
Most I've ever paid for a car was $3000 AUD.
I would love to get a more expensive RWD car but not right now.
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I own these two:
Earlier I had this one, with 2.7l engine, alle suspension parts upgraded, larger brakes etc. I really miss that car.
Off course IRS is a must. I would never buy a car with stiff rear axle. Speaking of rain, in 2015 we had rain 276 days where I live.
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Richard, I have always stuck with the smaller cars, since the traditional American v8 cars never handled all that well. I got the euro-rally itch pretty early on.
My exposure to muscle was via my uncle, who always has had a ground pounder around, from 9,000rpm smallblocks to 800hp big blocks.
An associate had basically a pro-stock engine in a ‘69 Vette, was very entertaining on the freeway.
It is pretty amazing how much performance can be had without getting your hands dirty these days! People used to spend every spare minute working to make the kind of power that you can probably lease now.
That Morris is nice, my dad had an Austin America way back, the hydro suspension gave him fits, didn’t have the resources to swap it to the solid rubber cones. My Mini was a ‘63, standard 850, and had the same 1098 head, dual SUs, header swapped on and tuned.
My uncle had worked with the engineer who made the Accusump system at a crash test facility some 30 years ago. I would try and study that Alfa Romeo pan from the 60s, or maybe a Lancia Montecarlo pan as well. Maybe you could get a spare pan and have a shop weld some baffles in? It wouldn’t need to be perfect, just slow down the wave...
My exposure to muscle was via my uncle, who always has had a ground pounder around, from 9,000rpm smallblocks to 800hp big blocks.
An associate had basically a pro-stock engine in a ‘69 Vette, was very entertaining on the freeway.
It is pretty amazing how much performance can be had without getting your hands dirty these days! People used to spend every spare minute working to make the kind of power that you can probably lease now.
That Morris is nice, my dad had an Austin America way back, the hydro suspension gave him fits, didn’t have the resources to swap it to the solid rubber cones. My Mini was a ‘63, standard 850, and had the same 1098 head, dual SUs, header swapped on and tuned.
My uncle had worked with the engineer who made the Accusump system at a crash test facility some 30 years ago. I would try and study that Alfa Romeo pan from the 60s, or maybe a Lancia Montecarlo pan as well. Maybe you could get a spare pan and have a shop weld some baffles in? It wouldn’t need to be perfect, just slow down the wave...
Had a bit of rain today. Also been prepping the car for a bit of spray paint on the bodywork while I've got the radiators out of the way with some paper towels and white spirits, makes things a lot easier with the radiators out of the way. Also resprayed the power steering radiator and all of the bolts and mounting hardware for the bonnet jam and radiator.
I used gloss black Rustguard epoxy enamel spray paint, not cheap at $17 a can.
I used gloss black Rustguard epoxy enamel spray paint, not cheap at $17 a can.
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yes. The last American HP war was a long time ago and tires, suspensions, brakes, etc were terrible. Straight line only. And yes again... Now you can buy off the show room floor a 100,000 mile warranted 700-800HP and they get good gas mileage -- dropping cylinders etc. Amazing. I dont think there will be another period like this for another 50 years or never if electric takes over.
My days of modifying are over. Finally. I'm 73 now. About time! Maybe these high HP cars will depreciate fast enough for next gen kids to have for thier enjoyment at cheap prices (if they can afford the gas ). The end of an era in HiPo cars are these we have now.
How do you hop up an electric car engine?
Engine swaps and turbo charger kits will keep things fun for a long time for the DIY'er. Improving the handling and brakes and obtaining a little more power from your car is always rewarding and fun. Makes the car more enjoyable to drive.
THx-Richard
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