McGee PA-Speaker 250 mm.
Technische Daten:
Kordurchmesser 260 mm.
Einbautiefe 113,5 mm
RMS 200 W,
Imp. 8 Ohm,
Frequenzgang 56 - 4000 Hz,
Fo 62 Hz,
Qts 0,6719,
Qms 8,0430,
Qes0,7332,
Vas 45,5434.
Schalldruck: 94,3 dB,
Vægt: 3,2 kg,
Svingspole 2,5,
Magnet 1,2 kg.
Theese are the specs for the ones on Elektronik Lavpris ApS - cant be the HP10W as far as I can see?
Technische Daten:
Kordurchmesser 260 mm.
Einbautiefe 113,5 mm
RMS 200 W,
Imp. 8 Ohm,
Frequenzgang 56 - 4000 Hz,
Fo 62 Hz,
Qts 0,6719,
Qms 8,0430,
Qes0,7332,
Vas 45,5434.
Schalldruck: 94,3 dB,
Vægt: 3,2 kg,
Svingspole 2,5,
Magnet 1,2 kg.
Theese are the specs for the ones on Elektronik Lavpris ApS - cant be the HP10W as far as I can see?
I asked them to update the page with info =) - I have just cancelled my order. What things makes this "bad" as an alternative? I have little knowledge about what specs to look at =)
I just went to their store in Aarhus. Unfortunately, this is not the P.Audio HP10W - but a device from McGee. The webpage has been updated with more info.
Luckily I got hold of 4 HP10W from hifikit.se yesterday
Indeed, I think I got the last 4 P.Audio HP-10W from Intertechnik.de
Now I only need the tweeters, then I can complete it.
Still need to decide on what batteries to go for.
All the main parameters should be roughly the same.
Sensitivity: 94-97dB/w/m
Qts: 0.38-0.42
Vas: 50-60l
Fs: 45-55Hz
Re: 6.2-6.8ohm
Le: 0.9-1.1mH
You need to find a speaker with all parameters within these limits. Specifically Re and Le can go outside these as long as one goes equally much to the other side as the other, ie. if Re goes down, Le must go up.
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Okay thanks - ill try to look for a alternative that I can test then - just in case that HP10W arent on the marked before Roskilde
Sorry to be a bit late with this, but I've been away for a while.
The top drawing is the back of the switch; the bottom is an actual circuit diagram. Sorry for the crude look of the drawings, this was just the one I drew up for my own use.
--Buckapound
These speakers have a way too big VAS at 392 L... The HP-10W only has 55,35L. Basicly this means that the Rila needs a way bigger enclosure..
No manufacturer called Rila. The manufactur is Tonwel. And when you can't get a pdf you can pretty much assume it's crap.
No, it means it's wrong. Vas is perhaps 39.2l instead but there's really no way of knowing.
Just finished assembling the box itself of my boominator copy, fit everything in place and screw it tightly together and I must say that I am overwhelmed at the sound presure it delivers!
When testing outdoors however I decided that it wouldn't hurt to squeeze a bit more power out the AMP-6 B.
The plan is to buy 2 Neutrik NTE-4 trafo's, but would you also recomend changing the input resistors or even, only changing input resistors?
The Signal source will mostly be newer signal limited mp3 players.
I've also read that the swedish "Malen Boominator" changed the input caps, to avoid waisting energy on frequencies under 100 Hz in an outdoors environment.. Have anybody got any coments on that?
I also stumbled upon a couple of distributors of the Bubble Piezo tweeter willing to sell as low as 0.1 $ a piece and with 100 as minimum order quantity.
Unfortunately, I have yet to develop the talent to see whether they are worth the money, but here are some links if you're interested!
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piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products, buy piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products from alibaba.com
piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products, buy piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products from alibaba.com
When testing outdoors however I decided that it wouldn't hurt to squeeze a bit more power out the AMP-6 B.
The plan is to buy 2 Neutrik NTE-4 trafo's, but would you also recomend changing the input resistors or even, only changing input resistors?
The Signal source will mostly be newer signal limited mp3 players.
I've also read that the swedish "Malen Boominator" changed the input caps, to avoid waisting energy on frequencies under 100 Hz in an outdoors environment.. Have anybody got any coments on that?
I also stumbled upon a couple of distributors of the Bubble Piezo tweeter willing to sell as low as 0.1 $ a piece and with 100 as minimum order quantity.
Unfortunately, I have yet to develop the talent to see whether they are worth the money, but here are some links if you're interested!
PIEZO TWEETER products, buy PIEZO TWEETER products from alibaba.com
PIEZO TWEETER products, buy PIEZO TWEETER products from alibaba.com
piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products, buy piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products from alibaba.com
piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products, buy piezo tweeter (SPT-311B) products from alibaba.com
I changed the feedback resistors to 100kohm and if a iphone 3gs is connected it plays loud enough for the most situations but often i want a little more and when you max the iphone the sound gets really distorted.
As described in the assembly manual you can change the input cap to get a HP-filter. I have put in 0,47 and the bass starts to roll of at about 80Hz, (surely wrong but i cant remember atm.) I tested with 0,22uF the first season but the bass feels really thin and you absolutely want moore.
I have a great excelsheet with a calculation that directly gives you the HP-cut frequency for different inputcap values. I gladly share it but don´t know where to put it. Send me a PM and i´ll e-mail it to you.
As described in the assembly manual you can change the input cap to get a HP-filter. I have put in 0,47 and the bass starts to roll of at about 80Hz, (surely wrong but i cant remember atm.) I tested with 0,22uF the first season but the bass feels really thin and you absolutely want moore.
I have a great excelsheet with a calculation that directly gives you the HP-cut frequency for different inputcap values. I gladly share it but don´t know where to put it. Send me a PM and i´ll e-mail it to you.
0.47uF is the optimum in my experience too. It adds extra roll-off where the natural roll-off starts (the f3 point), so you get both acoustical and electrical roll-off at the same time.
I'd not recommend going above the 100Kohm feedback resistors. You've basically reached the end of the line of what can be achieved by setting gain. Although you could lower the input resistors to 12-15Kohm as well.
If even more gain is needed you'll have to go the external route via a input trafo or other type of preamp.
I'd not recommend going above the 100Kohm feedback resistors. You've basically reached the end of the line of what can be achieved by setting gain. Although you could lower the input resistors to 12-15Kohm as well.
If even more gain is needed you'll have to go the external route via a input trafo or other type of preamp.
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A quick reply to my previous order: It doesn't work. In fact it made the problem worse!=)
This is how i tested it, but note that i have one more testing to do:
Amp6 connected to battery, iphone connected to trafo and then to amp6:
When not playing, just connected, the hum is unchanged.
When i play i can´´t notice any increades gain. (maybe hard to hear the +1,3db)
Then i connect the ihpone charger to the wall outlet, and get a static hum just like the sound of a big PAsystem when theres no music.
Then i tested to disconnect the trafo and put the charger in. NO HUM!
I also tested to switch the trafo the wrong directon with no difference.
What i have not tested is to connect the iphonecharger to the battery. Will do this when i have redone all my wireing.
Sum: Crap, or me doing something wrong.
Well, you said it yourself. You're doing it wrong. And the one thing you have left to test is the one thing it's designed for: ground loop isolation on battery operation.
But it does indicate that this product isn't shielded which while not being critical for the intended use would have been nice.
Oh, and no 1.3dB is not an audible difference really, in the sense that you'll not percieve it as suddenly playing a lot louder. IIRC volume steps on the iphone are in 1 to 2 dB steps. Lower steps at lower volume, so you can use that as a guideline. Setting volume at 11 isn't terribly much louder than at 10 (pun intended).
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