The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

For my mini's I keep the xover in the center compartment so there is better access. Crowded there but I can get to it. Lots of room in the boominator compartment. Still I will secure that coil.

I am thinking about how to use that space in the center compartment of the boominator. I'll see how it sounds but I may add more battery power and a more powerful amp. Maybe an internal charger. No need for solar. I also like the idea of a shelf for my X3.
 
Hi there!
After a long time in this forum again.
I've build the boominator with silicon-tuned-MPT-001 and HP10-W exactly according to the Saturnus files in the 3D-Warehouse from SketchUp with 12mm plywood as recommended (not glued together jet, only screwed).

Is it normal that it sounds sooo crappy? I expected much better soundquality

I've measured the sound with an UMIK-1 and that's what's coming out of it
www.hodentrauma.de/Upload/Boominator.mdat (file for REW)

I have an MiniDSP but for some reason I'm too stupid to export a file to upload with my plugins (I have Mixer and 2-Way-Crossover, do I need another one?)
Could someone help?
 
What amplifier are you using? And did you make a crossover? One of the best ways to improve the sound quality is to ditch those crappy piezo tweeters for proper tweeters like the P.audio PHT-407N.
Muse M20 (TA2020) but also tried others.
I didn't make any crossover.

For my ears the problem aren't the tweeters (they are not good but okay), it's the woofers which sound like an old radio on some frequencies :confused:7
Sreenshot:
https://hodentrauma.de/Upload/Unbenannt9.png
 
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Hey can anyone give me the best practice on mounting the woofers? From various pictures I have gathered what I think is the following once you have all your holes cut in the baffle:

1. Mount waffle speaker grills (without the rubber gasket) using calk (type II)
2. Mount the drivers using 1/2" wood screws
3. Calk all around the drivers and calk the screws to keep them from coming loose
 
So that's a 4 channel amplifier right?
Nope, tweeters and and woofers are in parallel.
But the piezo tweeters doesn't respond much below ~3khz or something so it seemed fine to me - is that the problem?

There's a massive -20db hole @ ~150Hz, the area between 300-700Hz sounds weird and some very massive distortion at around 1.8kHz
 
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Caulk the speakers onto the baffle and sandwich the grill between the baffle and speaker gasket.... If you have measured everything correctly you will have a gap between the speaker magnet and the inner baffle if you screw the speakers down too tightly, the speakers do not need screwing in, just use screws to mount while the low modulous silicone caulk is setting.
 
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Nope, tweeters and and woofers are in parallel.
But the piezo tweeters doesn't respond much below ~3khz or something so it seemed fine to me - is that the problem?

There's a massive -20db hole @ ~150Hz, the area between 300-700Hz sounds weird and some very massive distortion at around 1.8kHz

There is your problem, the dsp is an active crossover, you should be amplifying your tweeters and woofers seperatly.... It's not designed for this setup with piezos.... Remove the dsp and add the correct crossover....
 
Thanks. I will probably mount the speakers using only screws at first for a test fit. I use painters tape to put the box together and make sure everything fits. Shim or skim if I didn't get it exactly right. Then do the final mount and glue up.

At least that is what I did with my mini's.

I got my wood today and hope to have it ready to go by the end of the weekend.
 
Hey guys, I'm new to the concept that is "boominators", also I've never built a speaker or boombox before but I'd really love to make one!

I found the plans linked earlier, https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/mo...b972735edc&id=ed70429792f0ff9d421ffb972735edc

If I download the 2015 version, will the dimensions work with the P.audio HP-10W and the Monacor MPT-001, or will I need to make some changes?
Also, seeing as 41hz.com is down, which amp would work best? I want long playtime!

Thanks a lot!
 
Working on the wood now. Can anyone give me the glueup order after you have mounted the baffles. I know it is out there, just would prefer not to spend an hour looking.

I think it is:

1. Front baffle to bottom
2. Sides to front baffle, bottom
3. Center compartment sides to front baffle, bottom
4. Center brace to front baffle drivers
5. Back baffle to sides/bottom, back baffle drivers to center brace
6. Top
 
Working on the wood now. Can anyone give me the glueup order after you have mounted the baffles. I know it is out there, just would prefer not to spend an hour looking.

I think it is:

1. Front baffle to bottom
2. Sides to front baffle, bottom
3. Center compartment sides to front baffle, bottom
4. Center brace to front baffle drivers
5. Back baffle to sides/bottom, back baffle drivers to center brace
6. Top

I did
Bottom, ported ends, centre brace and centre compartment. Like a skeleton...
Then
With the drivers attached, one side at a time, gluing magnet to centre brace
Then top last
BJ
 
Thanks. I like it as long as I can get the compartment sides and center brace lined up correctly. Any tricks there to share?

Not really.... Measure twice etc.... Mark carefully, use a set square, 1 step at a time, be patient, I also used screws to keep things in place.... Make sure your cuts are accurate and square.... Don't screw the drivers to the baffles too tightly, the tolerances in Saturnus's design account for the width of the driver gasket, I screwed mine tight to the baffle and ended up with a 3mm gab between the magnet and the centre brace.
BJ