But the problem is also present, and even worse, without a source (just mini-jack cable in the amp and nothing in the other end)
I had the same problem with my TA2024, it's related to the power supply. Switching it out for a new/higher quality one solved the problem.
Edit: ow wait, you are using a battery. What is the voltage and can you try a different power source?
Ta2024 probeem - YouTube
Edit: ow wait, you are using a battery. What is the voltage and can you try a different power source?
Ta2024 probeem - YouTube
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It's a 3 year old car battery that right now measures exactly 12.00 V.
I've also connected the AMP6 to a decent 230 => 12.0 and 13.5 V AC-DC converter, which didn't change much.
BUT I found some cheapo jack cable lying around, looks like a cable you buy for around 4$ - and noise is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced
! Not gone at all though, but it's perhaps down to half of the sound lvl with the "expensive" 10$ cable.
So much for "high quality" cables - my ***
Will also try connecting the amp to a new 12V SLA as soon as I get my new batteries.
I've also connected the AMP6 to a decent 230 => 12.0 and 13.5 V AC-DC converter, which didn't change much.
BUT I found some cheapo jack cable lying around, looks like a cable you buy for around 4$ - and noise is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced
! Not gone at all though, but it's perhaps down to half of the sound lvl with the "expensive" 10$ cable.So much for "high quality" cables - my ***
Will also try connecting the amp to a new 12V SLA as soon as I get my new batteries.
lutkeveld, what power supply did you switch to? And did it eliminate the buzZZZzing?
Hi! at the moment im assembeling my box and I have 3 questions, greatfull for all help!
1. Ive now started glueing the box together with epoxy glue, is it smart to use some screws afterwards to make it even stronger? How do I screw to not make the playwood crack?
2. On the guide from Canopysound it says that I should glue the "woofer panels" on the bottompanel and then sqeeze down the bracerna. Why not glue the first woofer panel, then the bracerna and the the other woofer panel?
3. Do I just drill a hole in the walls of the electronic department for the cables from the woofers witch is going to the amp? and then fill it with fog?
Very thankfull for all the help, this is my first build as you may notice Pictures coming!
1. Ive now started glueing the box together with epoxy glue, is it smart to use some screws afterwards to make it even stronger? How do I screw to not make the playwood crack?
2. On the guide from Canopysound it says that I should glue the "woofer panels" on the bottompanel and then sqeeze down the bracerna. Why not glue the first woofer panel, then the bracerna and the the other woofer panel?
3. Do I just drill a hole in the walls of the electronic department for the cables from the woofers witch is going to the amp? and then fill it with fog?
Very thankfull for all the help, this is my first build as you may notice
Pictures coming!Thanks for this info, really quite usefull for newbies !
Now I have been trying to find out if it is safe to hook up a basic charger while playing the amps. The guys in our local shop can sell me a basic charger but will not comment if its safe to charge and use the battery at the same time.
How would I work out if it is possible? I have read that the more basic the charger the more likely it will cope as smart chargers tent to get confused.
This is the most basic charger I can find locally that might fit the bill.
12V 350mA Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charger - Jaycar Electronics
Also reading your comment above is it possible to just plug a 13.0-13.5v DC supply into the system. Do I need to add something to limit the current going to the battery? Am I crazy to think it is safe to connect a SLA to a supply like this and expect it to charge safely?
I am currently looking into getting some solar panels, specifically the 10W 12V CIGS ones that are recommended here. First of all I'd like to know if the aluminium casing around the panel itself is easily removable, so it can be glued(?) directly to the top of the box, and also whether you guys think a single panel will be enough? I'd like to use the boominator to charge a few phones (no more than one at a time) aswell.
Definitely not going to buy a regulator either, so two panels may be excessive? The battery is most likely going to be a 12V 17A SLA. I've got a voltmeter wired in so i'll know when to switch off the solar power.
Lastly, i drew up this wiring diagram real quickly, i know there are probably tons on here, but if anyone could just give me an OK or something i would appreciate it.
http://i62.tinypic.com/2s9en7p.png
Thanks.
Definitely not going to buy a regulator either, so two panels may be excessive? The battery is most likely going to be a 12V 17A SLA. I've got a voltmeter wired in so i'll know when to switch off the solar power.
Lastly, i drew up this wiring diagram real quickly, i know there are probably tons on here, but if anyone could just give me an OK or something i would appreciate it.
http://i62.tinypic.com/2s9en7p.png
Thanks.
hello there,
I am looking to build a smaller version of the boomintor, something like the boominiator mini. I have seen saturnus occasionally mentions the Monacor sp60 as a potential driver. Luckily (or unluckily) the battery in my previous set of portable speakers died and is integral to the case, and I must decommission these, and they have these drivers! also I have some small dayton tweeters (ND20FA-6) that should be good to go in these as well.
If I were to go with these cones (which I would prefer as they are effectively free), what internal volume should I go with? and should I port the box? the mechanical design will be ok for me to do myself, just I am a little under experienced in how I should model the acoustic parameters. I know that around 3.5 liters sealed is about right for them when there is just one driver per side, I could just double this and I will be in the right ball park I guess, though the potential of pulling the response a bit deeper with a port is tempting, as these won't be only for outside use.
If I can get a little help I will make sure to publish the mechanical design, inc laser cutting files.
I am looking to build a smaller version of the boomintor, something like the boominiator mini. I have seen saturnus occasionally mentions the Monacor sp60 as a potential driver. Luckily (or unluckily) the battery in my previous set of portable speakers died and is integral to the case, and I must decommission these, and they have these drivers! also I have some small dayton tweeters (ND20FA-6) that should be good to go in these as well.
If I were to go with these cones (which I would prefer as they are effectively free), what internal volume should I go with? and should I port the box? the mechanical design will be ok for me to do myself, just I am a little under experienced in how I should model the acoustic parameters. I know that around 3.5 liters sealed is about right for them when there is just one driver per side, I could just double this and I will be in the right ball park I guess, though the potential of pulling the response a bit deeper with a port is tempting, as these won't be only for outside use.
If I can get a little help I will make sure to publish the mechanical design, inc laser cutting files.
I can suggest to looking at the Maxim APP 4320 design,
Reference Design for a Class D, 2.1-Channel, Audio Amplifier for an MP3 Docking Station - Reference Schematic - Maxim
The only thing you need to copy/preserve, is the box size/volume/port for the bass speaker, as that is what requires meticulous tuning, especially if it is a ported design. The rest can be used for reference.
If the speaker mfg/dealer provides alignment data, then it makes it so much easier.
SPK1, SPK2
2in full-range loudspeaker Tymphany® Peerless Gold PLS-P830970 830970
SPK3
5.25in subwoofer loudspeaker
Reference Design for a Class D, 2.1-Channel, Audio Amplifier for an MP3 Docking Station - Reference Schematic - Maxim
The only thing you need to copy/preserve, is the box size/volume/port for the bass speaker, as that is what requires meticulous tuning, especially if it is a ported design. The rest can be used for reference.
If the speaker mfg/dealer provides alignment data, then it makes it so much easier.
SPK1, SPK2
2in full-range loudspeaker Tymphany® Peerless Gold PLS-P830970 830970
SPK3
5.25in subwoofer loudspeaker
I am indeed in the last steps of working on a mini/micro Boominator design which uses either one or two pairs of sp60 and dayton nd16fa. A nd20fa probably could be used instead without too much trouble.
For the micro it'll be 2x sp60/4 and the mini will be 4x sp60/8. It'll be closed cabinet with large series capacitor boost of the lowest frequencies, and the cabinet will be extremely small with the mini version exactly half the size of a Boominator on all sides, ie. 150x150x450mm, and the micro being slightly over half the length of that.
cool,
If I am to make this I will probably use a digital crossover and an amp9 or equivelent. I guess that would mean that I could get away with having the sp60/4 and putting them in series on both sides.
The size seems very small for having so many drivers, 10 liters external volume. Though with appropriate eq I guess you can burn some power to extend the response. I will be very happy to be a test run for this design.
If I am to make this I will probably use a digital crossover and an amp9 or equivelent. I guess that would mean that I could get away with having the sp60/4 and putting them in series on both sides.
The size seems very small for having so many drivers, 10 liters external volume. Though with appropriate eq I guess you can burn some power to extend the response. I will be very happy to be a test run for this design.
Having had a look around for drivers in the UK for the last coulple of days, I feel that the sp60 based speakers will be very popular, as it is one of the few 'known quantity' cheap drivers that you can get easily it seems. Any thoughts on the active cross over idea? it seems that it is rare that people are putting them in these portable designs. After all it would give a way of having multiple tunings for different environments. I guess one of the reasons might be the price. 99 dolars plus postage and tax (minidsp) is getting on for a significant driver upgrade! This summer I hope to find some time to make a cheaper alternative that would be open source. There is nothing fancy in doing multiply/accumilate functions!