The manufacturer claim they can deliver 5MW worth of them per month, and minimum order is 1 pcs.
china CIGS thin film module panel 10W - CIS from AD Solar (Building) Co., Ltd.
Hello everybody
I have 2 pcs 10w 12v CIS amorph solar modules, and i was thinking of building a Lightweight Boominator with Basslite S2010 and PHT-407N. I have previously read on a forum that it's technically possible to double increase the sound volume by running on a 24v system compared to 12v. However, I do not know which type of crossover filter I should use for either the 12v or the 24v setup, and whether if is possible for the solar modules to run on 24v?
I have 2 pcs 10w 12v CIS amorph solar modules, and i was thinking of building a Lightweight Boominator with Basslite S2010 and PHT-407N. I have previously read on a forum that it's technically possible to double increase the sound volume by running on a 24v system compared to 12v. However, I do not know which type of crossover filter I should use for either the 12v or the 24v setup, and whether if is possible for the solar modules to run on 24v?
My mystery is solved! After one year and countless thinking, I've worked it out.
WARNING: Don't use liquid epoxy to glue the magnet backs directly.
Today I dissected my speakers and found out that during construction I shouldn't have used too much (liquid) epoxy, nor applied it directly to the magnets.
What I found was that the epoxy tracked into the porting pole, down along the voice coil, and soaked into the cap. This stuck the whole motor assembly together, hence the appearance at first as if the voice coils had cooked - because the cone was stiff (and barely any signal / no mid or bass).
The first speaker dissection showed no obvious signs of voice coil damage at all:
So then I looked more closely. I realised the caps look wet:
It's epoxy. It's travelled all the way from the port in the magnet to the cap at the other end:
It's travelled in both directions too, to each speaker. Here's one cap and cone of one driver next to the other driver:
So that's it!
LESSON: Don't glue the magnet backs directly.
This is pretty much the ONLY thing I misread and did wrong, and it was a massive screw up. Now I am to believe that the glue is meant only for the edges of the magnet, once the speaker is in place abutting the brace. Follow Saturnus' suggestion of plastic padding-style glue, with a putty-like composition.
What a relief. New drivers come tomorrow. Time to enjoy twice as much bass as I'm used to! Oh, and stereo
Welcome me to the 21st Century
WARNING: Don't use liquid epoxy to glue the magnet backs directly.
Today I dissected my speakers and found out that during construction I shouldn't have used too much (liquid) epoxy, nor applied it directly to the magnets.
What I found was that the epoxy tracked into the porting pole, down along the voice coil, and soaked into the cap. This stuck the whole motor assembly together, hence the appearance at first as if the voice coils had cooked - because the cone was stiff (and barely any signal / no mid or bass).
The first speaker dissection showed no obvious signs of voice coil damage at all:
So then I looked more closely. I realised the caps look wet:
It's epoxy. It's travelled all the way from the port in the magnet to the cap at the other end:
It's travelled in both directions too, to each speaker. Here's one cap and cone of one driver next to the other driver:
So that's it!
LESSON: Don't glue the magnet backs directly.
This is pretty much the ONLY thing I misread and did wrong, and it was a massive screw up. Now I am to believe that the glue is meant only for the edges of the magnet, once the speaker is in place abutting the brace. Follow Saturnus' suggestion of plastic padding-style glue, with a putty-like composition.
What a relief. New drivers come tomorrow. Time to enjoy twice as much bass as I'm used to! Oh, and stereo
Welcome me to the 21st Century
Last edited:
Thanks for the update, whalebreath.
Those VCs look in perfectly good shape to me although you glued them up pretty good. Do they measure ok too?
Typically you apply epoxy glue with a paint brush in a very thin layer so it doesn't run anywhere except where you want it and cures very quickly but as I have said before, if you are accustomed to using epoxy, it's the best. However, for the typical DIY builder I have listed the alternatives, ie. PU glue for the cabinet, plastic padding for the magnet/brace assembly and non-acidic acrylic sealant for sealing (and improving the piezo tweeter).
Those VCs look in perfectly good shape to me although you glued them up pretty good. Do they measure ok too?
Typically you apply epoxy glue with a paint brush in a very thin layer so it doesn't run anywhere except where you want it and cures very quickly but as I have said before, if you are accustomed to using epoxy, it's the best. However, for the typical DIY builder I have listed the alternatives, ie. PU glue for the cabinet, plastic padding for the magnet/brace assembly and non-acidic acrylic sealant for sealing (and improving the piezo tweeter).
With Basslites and pht407n, you use a miniDSP or alternatively an active crossover.
If you put the solar panels in series they give "24V". I'd use a solar charger capable of both 12V and 24V mode, for example of a Phocos CIS-series charger.
Isnt the monocrystalline panels better? I found this one. What do you think?
High Efficiency 10W monocrystalline Silicon Solar panel Solar Cell Solar Module Free shipping-in Solar Panel from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
High Efficiency 10W monocrystalline Silicon Solar panel Solar Cell Solar Module Free shipping-in Solar Panel from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com
Sure. If you live south of the 45th northern parallel, and you live a place where it is rarely clouded or overcast, and you can get the panels up high enough that they will never be shaded, and you can constantly change the angle during the day, and change orientation of the panels during the year, and you can make sure they are sufficiently cooled, then yes, monocrystalline panels are better.
If any one of these conditions can't be met then they're about equal, if two or more can't be met then thin film panels are better.
Last edited:
How do you order the one you suggested? Can't even mail them because the mail system on their site if messed up.
How do you order the one you suggested? Can't even mail them because the mail system on their site if messed up.
I have no idea what you're talking about. There's an email, skype, msn, telephone number for international sales, etc etc. I can't see any way they could possibly make it easier to get in contact with them.
Try mailing them, it keeps telling me that i'm not typing in english bla bla bla.
Where did you find skype?
Okay, so I need to sold the cables directly on the board instead of inserting the powercable in the "power jack" that comes with the amp6-basic kit?
Like this?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-335.html
Like this?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-335.html
Last edited:
This was the picture (post nr 3343), hope this works!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-335.html
Ok, Thanks a lot lutkeveld!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...-another-stab-ultimate-party-machine-335.html
Ok, Thanks a lot lutkeveld!
battery question..
Long time reader... thanks everyone for all the postings...
I've enjoyed on board crossovers for simplicity, so I'm excited to try this new board.... 2013 Class D Amplifier Board TPA3116 2 1 2X50W 100W | eBay
As has been stated here... the board can't take two SLA batteries (13.5x2 exceeds its voltage limit)
What are my options? I ordered 12 AA NI-HD ebay batteries to test with, but that won't play long. I'm also at a loss on how to charge 22-ish volts. I found a cheap 18v ni-mh charger for rc cars, it doesn't state its actual voltage.
Again, thanks so much for everything!
Tor
Long time reader... thanks everyone for all the postings...
I've enjoyed on board crossovers for simplicity, so I'm excited to try this new board.... 2013 Class D Amplifier Board TPA3116 2 1 2X50W 100W | eBay
As has been stated here... the board can't take two SLA batteries (13.5x2 exceeds its voltage limit)
What are my options? I ordered 12 AA NI-HD ebay batteries to test with, but that won't play long. I'm also at a loss on how to charge 22-ish volts. I found a cheap 18v ni-mh charger for rc cars, it doesn't state its actual voltage.
Again, thanks so much for everything!
Tor