While on the topic of these blue Lipo battery packs; I was under the impression that these come equipped with (BMS) protection/controller circuit, which handles the process of safe charging/discharging of cells, and that the supplied puny looking thing is just a regular adapter (of underpowered and crappy kind)
Now, I'm confused with this mention of upgrading to a proper smart charger.. Does that mean that simply upgrading to a larger adapter of more appropriate specs i.e. 12V+/1,0-2,0 Amps would not be ideal or safe? (I'm basing this on the presumption that supplied adapter is something in the 350/500mA range, and that BMS is taking care of everything else)
I recently ordered one of the slightly smaller "8000Ah" packs and was contemplating in the direction of simply attaching it to a more powerful source and achieve faster charging. As going for the smart charger slightly complicates and raises the overall costs of the whole battery system considerably :-/.
Perhaps only viable options are either leaving it as is, or doing it proper
Could you, or someone else in the know, please elaborate on that? thanks!
While on the topic of these blue Lipo battery packs; I was under the impression that these come equipped with (BMS) protection/controller circuit, which handles the process of safe charging/discharging of cells, and that the supplied puny looking thing is just a regular adapter (of underpowered and crappy kind)
Now, I'm confused with this mention of upgrading to a proper smart charger.. Does that mean that simply upgrading to a larger adapter of more appropriate specs i.e. 12V+/1,0-2,0 Amps would not be ideal or safe? (I'm basing this on the presumption that supplied adapter is something in the 350/500mA range, and that BMS is taking care of everything else)
I recently ordered one of the slightly smaller "8000Ah" packs and was contemplating in the direction of simply attaching it to a more powerful source and achieve faster charging. As going for the smart charger slightly complicates and raises the overall costs of the whole battery system considerably :-/.
Perhaps only viable options are either leaving it as is, or doing it proper
Could you, or someone else in the know, please elaborate on that? thanks!
There isn't a BMS (battery management system) integrated in any li-ion packs I have ever come across, regardless of cost. There is however a PCM (protection circuit module). However this only shut the battery off on a fault condition. It should never be confused with a proper charger.
What is supplied with the battery is a small regulated power supply. This or any other regulated supply should not be used to charge a li-ion battery directly. You will permanently damage the battery (a tiny bit) each time.
The supplied "charger" can get away with this because it is so small compared to capacity (usually takes 24-30 hours to recharge the battery with the supplied "charger") that the damage on each recharge is relatively small.
Last edited:
Or call them...
Number doesn't work :/
I just had a crazy idea! My initial plan was to cover my qubinator in black leather, like a vintage guitar amp. But how about covering it with blue denim, it's cheap (cut up old pair of jeans), and i think it would look cool. You could even make a pocket for ipod and cables etc.
How you want to design it is up to you, but remember to post some pictures
(Maybe we should have another thread going with a Qubinator topic, Saturnus?? Unless you're against it of course)I will say though - if you want to make it look like a pro guitar amp then buy some black plastic corners together with a strip handle on top and use Duratex for the finish. It will make it look like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can get Duratex from here
Oh, I see, looks I was under wrong impression regarding those having BMS,
and that what is actually included is only some rudimentary protection
module, thanks for making that clear!
How about rewiring the cells onto, say, one of these "proper" PCB charger
circuits? and then connecting the modified pack to a more appropriate PS,
according to manufacturers' suggested 2-3A, which seems to be in the
ballpark WRT C/2 ratio. Would that in your opinion constitute a viable
alternative to a smart charger? I know, this almost means rebuilding the
whole thing from scratch, but still, if I got it right, that would mean
proper and quicker charging (24-30h!!! damn, that's a no-no...) sans
damaging the battery, etc.
this is what i'm talking about:
PCB Charger for 3 Packs 3.7V Li-ion Li Lithium 18650 Battery Rechargeable 2-3A | eBay
(that one + some 2Acharger = ~11$ incl. shipping)
and there is even a nifty version which includes capacity indicator, and in
combo with a proper PS, it still ends up being way cheaper than a 1,5A smart
charger (37$ incl. shipping on eBay.uk):
Protection Board for 3 Packs 12.6V Li-ion Lithium 18650 Battery charger 4A w/LED | eBay
(this one + 2Acharger = ~17$ incl. shipping)
Am I getting somewhere with this, or am I still missing something!? and or
splitting hairs? I would just love to bypass the more costly option (hell,
that's why we're discussing el cheapo batt. packs, right?
) while alsoavoiding the default not-so-great charging solution
Cheers!
How you want to design it is up to you, but remember to post some pictures
I will say though - if you want to make it look like a pro guitar amp then buy some black plastic corners together with a strip handle on top and use Duratex for the finish. It will make it look like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can get Duratex from here
Yeah sorry for hijacking this thread a bit...
Corners, handle and recessed dish being posted as we speak
I think i will go for the denim, as it is very unique (I've never seen it), and a pocket to store the iphone in would be awesome. Then people could dance around with it, without the iphone flying around.
Hi,
What cables should I use from my battery to the amp?
Can't find a pre-assembled cable??
My amp is a MUSE M20 EX2 TA2020 T-Amp Stereo Amplifier 20Wx2|eBay
- Hanne
Please?
Louder!
I wonder if there's a TA2021 and TA2020 available with a switch or dial for gain?
Or, perhaps we need a boominator preamp thread (a battery conservative preamp able to run on same battery/voltages as TA2020)?
Which is the better way to go for people who have trouble with the iphone/digiplayer versus power amp gain issue?
P.S.
The maxing out at too quiet playback is an error that continues to persist throughout many boominator, halfinator, qubinator builds. . . because the #1 solution of replacing SMD resistors to set a useful gain is not accessible enough for the majority of builders. Something easier needs to be documented in the Boominator Wiki.
Thank you. So, the Muse I25W, has two conveniences, dials for offset (probably ships with zero offset) and ordinary through hole resistors that are easier to swap for setting gain.
I wonder if there's a TA2021 and TA2020 available with a switch or dial for gain?
Or, perhaps we need a boominator preamp thread (a battery conservative preamp able to run on same battery/voltages as TA2020)?
Which is the better way to go for people who have trouble with the iphone/digiplayer versus power amp gain issue?
P.S.
The maxing out at too quiet playback is an error that continues to persist throughout many boominator, halfinator, qubinator builds. . . because the #1 solution of replacing SMD resistors to set a useful gain is not accessible enough for the majority of builders. Something easier needs to be documented in the Boominator Wiki.
Prefab cables?Please?
Barrel plug cables recycled from old plug packs, splice as needed (do a sturdy job), double-check polarity with voltmeter before use.
Maybe so but that is the reason (only of them) that I recommend the amp6 from 41hz. It's through-hole and in kit form so you can change the input and feedback resistors as required. However, if you order an assembled version (or kit) and note in the order that it is for a Boominator, you will get the optimum 15K/82K or alternatively 22K/100K input/feedback resistors that I recommend already installed (or in the kt).
The Muse I25W has a similar advantage--gain settings done with full size ordinary through hole resistors. The simplest way to boost the gain is to parallel on a resistor per right and per left, changing the resistor value, achieving the needed boost without the task of de-soldering.
Perhaps the amplifier section of the Wiki could favor amplifiers that can have the gain set with through hole resistors? People with more basic soldering skills can then manage to reliably set a useful gain instead of getting stuck. We need only mention which resistors and mention that flux will help for easier success.
P.S.
The alternative seems to be a lot of really quiet festival speakers.
Last edited:
Just posting here as it seems to be the most relevant thread.
I went to dig out my Logitech Pure-Fi Anywhere speakers after not using them for a while and surprise surprise, the proprietary lithium ion battery has died.
Since I've built a couple of Tripath amps now (Arjen Helder 2 channel TA2020 MK3 and Arjens 6 channel TA2020 for my home cinema) I got to thinking about building a custom tripath based replacement for the Dead Pure-Fi.
I mostly use these speakers when we go camping to provide a little background music. The Logitechs sounded surprisingly good considering their diminutive size but I'm sure I can build something that sounds a whole lot better.
I don't want to go down the route of a full blown boominator/halfinator/cubinator.
My design brief is;
* Tripath based (TA2020 or TA2024)
* Similar size to the Pure-Fi (I don't mind going a litte bigger up to a maximum 4" speaker)
* Long battery life (10 hours would be nice)
* Easy to source (UK/Europe) parts
* Not too expensive
* Reasonable sound quality (I'm not expecting audiophile quality but clarity and a touch of bass would be nice)
I guess this would be more of a Micronator than a Mininator - I'd appreciate any input, links to similar projects, component recommendations, comments, concerns etc.
I went to dig out my Logitech Pure-Fi Anywhere speakers after not using them for a while and surprise surprise, the proprietary lithium ion battery has died.
Since I've built a couple of Tripath amps now (Arjen Helder 2 channel TA2020 MK3 and Arjens 6 channel TA2020 for my home cinema) I got to thinking about building a custom tripath based replacement for the Dead Pure-Fi.
I mostly use these speakers when we go camping to provide a little background music. The Logitechs sounded surprisingly good considering their diminutive size but I'm sure I can build something that sounds a whole lot better.
I don't want to go down the route of a full blown boominator/halfinator/cubinator.
My design brief is;
* Tripath based (TA2020 or TA2024)
* Similar size to the Pure-Fi (I don't mind going a litte bigger up to a maximum 4" speaker)
* Long battery life (10 hours would be nice)
* Easy to source (UK/Europe) parts
* Not too expensive
* Reasonable sound quality (I'm not expecting audiophile quality but clarity and a touch of bass would be nice)
I guess this would be more of a Micronator than a Mininator - I'd appreciate any input, links to similar projects, component recommendations, comments, concerns etc.
Just posting here as it seems to be the most relevant thread.
I went to dig out my Logitech Pure-Fi Anywhere speakers after not using them for a while and surprise surprise, the proprietary lithium ion battery has died.
Since I've built a couple of Tripath amps now (Arjen Helder 2 channel TA2020 MK3 and Arjens 6 channel TA2020 for my home cinema) I got to thinking about building a custom tripath based replacement for the Dead Pure-Fi.
I mostly use these speakers when we go camping to provide a little background music. The Logitechs sounded surprisingly good considering their diminutive size but I'm sure I can build something that sounds a whole lot better.
I don't want to go down the route of a full blown boominator/halfinator/cubinator.
My design brief is;
* Tripath based (TA2020 or TA2024)
* Similar size to the Pure-Fi (I don't mind going a litte bigger up to a maximum 4" speaker)
* Long battery life (10 hours would be nice)
* Easy to source (UK/Europe) parts
* Not too expensive
* Reasonable sound quality (I'm not expecting audiophile quality but clarity and a touch of bass would be nice)
I guess this would be more of a Micronator than a Mininator - I'd appreciate any input, links to similar projects, component recommendations, comments, concerns etc.
2x 4" micro qubinator? With amp32? Don't know about the battery, maybe a few of these.
That's not a bad shout actually. Any design concerns (acoustic or electrical) if I just scale down the qubinator to house 4" speakers?
Guess it'd end up being about a 6" cube.
Last edited:
It would be tiny..
I just thought of one thing. The qubinator has to be 100% airtight right? Well what about the jack socket?
Tiny is kind of the point. The Logitech speaker that I want to replace is only about 12" long.
I guess the largest footprint I'd want to use would be a 10" cube.
There isn't much info on the wiki about the qubinator - I can only find the sketchup drawing - is there any more details about the build or can anyone link me to someone's build?