We've almost finished our boominator, but there's a certain thing we need some enlightenment on:
We've got, from our build last year, some handles:
and we wish to put it like this - mounting it just above the port, with the handle itself covering the port:
Is this "doable" or will it screw up the bass totally?
We've got, from our build last year, some handles:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and we wish to put it like this - mounting it just above the port, with the handle itself covering the port:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is this "doable" or will it screw up the bass totally?
Turn it on and put your hands over the port to get a feeling of how much air it pushes.
That should be your answer
Ok - I'll see if I can get my hands on one of those.
I have an other question that I've been thinking about for some time though. Let's say that my SLA has a max output of 12.0V - I'ts a hot summerday and I connect my solar panel directly to the battery, which outputs let's say 13V - How many volts will my amp receive now?
The amp is connected directly to the battery, just as the solar panel...
The actual voltages are quite different. An SLA typically has 13.5V when fully charged, and a solar suited for SLA recharging typically has an open voltage of between 18V and 22V. Because of the internal resistance in the batteries that will typically be pulled down to between 13V and 14V depending on the charge state of the battery.
Now if you say that you have a battery with 50% charge left it will have a voltage around 12V when read without the solar panel connected, and you connect a solar panel directly on a sunny day, then let's say the voltage read across the battery is 13.5V. The amp will naturally recieve 13.5V as long as the power required is less than the power the solar panel generate, above that it starts to dip into the battery reserve and voltage will fall. How much this voltage sag will be depends on the amount of power drained.
Ok, I understand - but I'm still not sure if I'm taking a risk toasting the amp if I connect the solar panel directly to the battery, without any charge regulator...?
I've got a panel like this: Sunshine Solar Amorphous Battery Charger 15 Watt 12 Volt
If you disconnect the battery and run the amp directly off the solar panel somehow, you'll probably toast the amp. But as long as a battery's in the circuit, you'll be fine.
I'm more worried about the situation where you've got a fully charged battery, a bright/hot sunny day and the amp turned off. SLAs are somewhat tolerant of overcharging and will burn off overcharge as heat... but burning off 10-15 watts of heat in a closed case on a hot day might be a bit too much for them.
I'm more worried about the situation where you've got a fully charged battery, a bright/hot sunny day and the amp turned off. SLAs are somewhat tolerant of overcharging and will burn off overcharge as heat... but burning off 10-15 watts of heat in a closed case on a hot day might be a bit too much for them.
Ok - I get that - But if I connect a charge controller, won't we just leave that with the heat problem?
I mean, the 10-15 watts have to go somewhere, right? And when it's not going in the battery, it has to burned of as heat in the charge controller, or am I wrong?
I bet it's been covered dozens of times already in this thread but I just want to make sure. I'm building a kind of half boominator with only two HP-10's and an AMP6B.
Will these do the trick with the AMP6B and HP-10's? Monacor MPT-001 - Thomann Verkkokauppa
And which resistors should I use for the piezos? 150 ohm / 3 W?
Will these do the trick with the AMP6B and HP-10's? Monacor MPT-001 - Thomann Verkkokauppa
And which resistors should I use for the piezos? 150 ohm / 3 W?
Every time I read further into this thread I change my mind on what kind of box I should build
Is there any point in doing the magnet-to-magnet design with only two HP-10W's (8 ohm)?
I have a pair of these lying around: DT-99 - Monacor HiFi dome tweeter 80Wmax 8 Ohm - Europe Audio
Can I use those as tweeters or am I really better off with the piezos I mentioned in the earlier post?
Is there any point in doing the magnet-to-magnet design with only two HP-10W's (8 ohm)?
I have a pair of these lying around: DT-99 - Monacor HiFi dome tweeter 80Wmax 8 Ohm - Europe Audio
Can I use those as tweeters or am I really better off with the piezos I mentioned in the earlier post?
Hey guys
(first of all, sorry if my question has already been asked, havent had the time to read all of the 268 pages!)
Im looking into building something like the boominator, and i am ofcourse on the lookout for those HP-10W. But since there are so few of them, ive also searched the web for something that is comparable.
I found these Celestion BL10-100 8 Ohms - Thomann danske Cyberstore
as far as i reckon, they are quite compareable. A sensitivity of 96 dB, 100 watt and almost the same frequency range. What do you think of them?
Second - were also going to get a solar panel for our build, and it will most likely be a 30 watt panel. Do you have any recommendations for a specific charging regulator? Our battery will be a 24 Ah battery and we'll be using the Amp6Basic
Thanks!
http://www.thomann.de/dk/celestion_bl10_100_8_ohm.htm
(first of all, sorry if my question has already been asked, havent had the time to read all of the 268 pages!)
Im looking into building something like the boominator, and i am ofcourse on the lookout for those HP-10W. But since there are so few of them, ive also searched the web for something that is comparable.
I found these Celestion BL10-100 8 Ohms - Thomann danske Cyberstore
as far as i reckon, they are quite compareable. A sensitivity of 96 dB, 100 watt and almost the same frequency range. What do you think of them?
Second - were also going to get a solar panel for our build, and it will most likely be a 30 watt panel. Do you have any recommendations for a specific charging regulator? Our battery will be a 24 Ah battery and we'll be using the Amp6Basic
Thanks!
http://www.thomann.de/dk/celestion_bl10_100_8_ohm.htm
This post is about saturnus boominator design and not festival designs in general.
- but even if you just read through the last 20 pages or so you will find almost all answers since people keep asking the same things.. the hp10w is an excellent driver and they should be available at some places for instance https://www.intertechnik.de/Shop/Loudspeakers/P-Audio/H-Series/_71503_H18-HP10W_1768,en,4354,52326It will save you alot of time (or at least make your stereo awesome) if you ate least skim this entire thread. If you do it right there should be no need for a 24ah battery and a 30w solar cell..
hp10w
Hey Saturnus - is there anywhere you can buy the hp10w where they ship to denmark ? cant find them anyway!
Also would this tweeter Eminence APT150 - Thomann danske Cyberstore be suitable for a boominator with the hp10w ?
Do i need a crossover?(delefilter)? if yes - would a miniDSP be suitable ?
thanks in advance
Hey Saturnus - is there anywhere you can buy the hp10w where they ship to denmark ? cant find them anyway!
Also would this tweeter Eminence APT150 - Thomann danske Cyberstore be suitable for a boominator with the hp10w ?
Do i need a crossover?(delefilter)
? if yes - would a miniDSP be suitable ?thanks in advance
1. I posted a link 2 posts back
2. The crossover filter is determined by the frequency response of the tweeter/mid/bass.. So you need to know the tweeter you are buying..
3. A minidsp would be a overkill for the stereo you are making imo.. you would also be consuming energy to some degree in the minidsp..
but then again.. you asked Saturnus and not me
2. The crossover filter is determined by the frequency response of the tweeter/mid/bass.. So you need to know the tweeter you are buying..
3. A minidsp would be a overkill for the stereo you are making imo.. you would also be consuming energy to some degree in the minidsp..
but then again.. you asked Saturnus and not me
I can only agree. The APT100 wouldn't really be suited for a Boominator either. Find something else to use it for.
You can still use the miniDSP though. Not as crossover but use the digital equalizer to optimize output. You'd need to bring a laptop and a measurement microphone though. So probably best leave that at home too.
intertechnik and ljudia are the best bets at finding HP10Ws. Both ship to Denmark without problems. Just remember that you actually have to write ljudia an email first to let them know. Oh, the horror of actually having to do some work.
You can still use the miniDSP though. Not as crossover but use the digital equalizer to optimize output. You'd need to bring a laptop and a measurement microphone though. So probably best leave that at home too.
intertechnik and ljudia are the best bets at finding HP10Ws. Both ship to Denmark without problems. Just remember that you actually have to write ljudia an email first to let them know. Oh, the horror of actually having to do some work.
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hmm okay
the apt150 wouldnt be suitable at all ? because i already have to... but if i choose the right tweeter - i dont need a crossover at all? i though you would destroy the tweeter by playing without a crossover?
Also - i have a amp9basic! i will do 50w in 24 volt ? is that the best ? or should i just go for the 25w in 12 v?
I can find 2 different hp-10w speakers - on with a logo on and one without ? is there a difference between theese ?
the apt150 wouldnt be suitable at all ? because i already have to... but if i choose the right tweeter - i dont need a crossover at all? i though you would destroy the tweeter by playing without a crossover?
Also - i have a amp9basic! i will do 50w in 24 volt ? is that the best ? or should i just go for the 25w in 12 v?
I can find 2 different hp-10w speakers - on with a logo on and one without ? is there a difference between theese ?
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what you are asking is impossible to give an exact answer to. You would need to consider the pros and cons. If you compare a 24V system to a 12V system you double the voltage and hence quadruple the amp power consumption (since P = U^2*R). Yes you will also quadruple the output power, but you may need a large battery pack to supply your system which may not be a good idea if you are doing a transportable system, but it will for sure be a good thing if you just want alot of loudness!
And for the tweeter crossover question - i doubt that you will find a tweeter which does not need a cross over filter or some output attenuation at least (a resistor). Find the tweeter first (or just copy a system from this thread)
bottomline: it can not be stated enough how much time you will save by simply reading this thread. Saturnus has explained everything you need to know!
And for the tweeter crossover question
- i doubt that you will find a tweeter which does not need a cross over filter or some output attenuation at least (a resistor). Find the tweeter first (or just copy a system from this thread)bottomline: it can not be stated enough how much time you will save by simply reading this thread. Saturnus has explained everything you need to know!