The best sounding audio integrated opamps

My cd player features the AD1852 and it sounds great, so I guess this one has good potential too :up:
Yeah. And also a relatively pricey Xindak DAC recently reviewed in a magazine has it.

I do like the idea of the 1/8'' line out, actually. And my Chord iChord, Kimber GQ-Mini Cu, and a couple more, are impatient to show their potential. :D I must meditate. :)
 
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if only AD would give samples! anyway, I need to source some AD8597..they're not available on ebay and I don't wanna be milked for crazy shipping costs from farnell or whatever.

Yeah, that's been my issue with them as well. Arrrgh... why doesn't RS Components stock the AD8597/8599... grrrr....


At any rate, Samuel Groner's measurements of the AD8599 are worse than expected. Not only THD isn't very low, it even grows towards 20 KHz considerably. I don't know... judging from that, an OPA132UA [great sounding chip] would be a better choice than the AD8597...
 
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Hmmmmm, CS4398 and LME49725 could make a happy marriage...

in the NG98. :D

AD1852 and LME49723 would make another perfect wedding. :D


I keep being amazed that people don't want to try LME49725 & LME49723. Alright, stay with your NE5532... or with the pleasant distortion of the AD8599...
 
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"The version C Zhaolu 2.5 replaces the AD1852 with the higher quality CS4398 D/A chip."

Old news, I know...but I think it's correct.


Sooo... if I take the NG98, that'll be with the CS4398 (again). So I must prepare a Browndog or two with the LME49725. :)

I could put the 49725 on the socket for the line out buffer, and the OPA1611 Browndog I have on that for the headphone amp, ahead of the BUF634's... or vice versa... :cool:


This is it -> HA INFO Audio Studio

It's almost as small as my Super Pro...I love smallness :shy:
 
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indeed it does look really sweet! it even does 16/96..better than nothing :)

I'll use a 4ft Monster THX cable to go from the Prodigy HD2 to the burson HA-160...I was advised some solid copper cable, and I think it's one of the best solutions(the higher the strands count, the higher the distortion), will look into it.
 
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indeed it does look really sweet! it even does 16/96..better than nothing :)
The coaxial/optical digital inputs are limited to 24/96 by the DIR9001. On the other hand, I purely listen to CDs... And the DIR9001 is said to sound better (more transparent) than the Cirrus receivers...curious to find out if it's true. Staying with the CS4398 should be helpful here. One could always buy the AD1852 daughterboard too, later...
 
ok I got my Mundorf's! they're "MKP 630VDC 0.1uf"..much smaller than the 1f obviously :)

I might fancy soldering them at the back of the soundcard on the 4*AD797BN...Burson advises between +V and -V, not the best option in your opinion?

Useless waste of expensive parts, in my opinion. .1uF is too little anyway to make a rationally significant change. And 630V is ridiculously high :)
 
well, I asked the EE who was supposed to solder the Burson for me...and he said that 0.1uf was already overkill to do V+/V- decoupling..

they're only available in 630V as MKP, not my fault :D

anyway, since I've gone w/ singles on DIP8 browndogs...I don't seem to be getting these random interferences I used to have on daytime(never on week-end or after 10PM, it's some strange very low bleeps that stand for a few secs)...when browdog says "Superior electrical [..] isolation between channels vs. integrated dual op-amp", it seems to make a LOT of sense. dual chips are EVIL.

connecting the OPA-Earth ground wire had the same effect = no more bleeps :)
 
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well, I asked the EE who was supposed to solder the Burson for me...and he said that 0.1uf was already overkill to do V+/V- decoupling..

they're only available in 630V as MKP, not my fault :D
I thought you were looking for a subjective improvement in sound...not the basic power supply ììbypassing required for the chips to be stable. That should already exist in the board, just not V+ to V- (which would be redundant, if there are good quality bypass caps on board). Besides, it would be much better to use a cheap and tiny .1uF ceramic for oscillation-killing purposes.

Instead, if you're looking for a sonic change (improvement or not), maybe it's better to try a larger (lower voltage) film cap (like Wima MKP4), or also a small (.47uF or 1uf) Black Gate NX (never tried these myself).
 
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