Any real world comparsions about different drivers? Just looking for best candidtates for Tham (best SPL not to forget SQ).
So far I like RCF L15P540, good accurate bass down to 40Hz and produces very good punch too! RCF L15P200AK is heavier, more xmax, 4 inch coil, goes a bit lower etc.. but P540 just works better in Tham. P200AK is missing something, more like one notey. P540 has more grunt. Opposite to FR measurements which is weird.
I'll make couple of more tham 15's, so side by side comparsions will be there.
RCF LF15X401 seems to be pretty neat, according to specs. Much like 15TBX100.
Double xmax compared to L15P540.
So far I like RCF L15P540, good accurate bass down to 40Hz and produces very good punch too! RCF L15P200AK is heavier, more xmax, 4 inch coil, goes a bit lower etc.. but P540 just works better in Tham. P200AK is missing something, more like one notey. P540 has more grunt. Opposite to FR measurements which is weird.
I'll make couple of more tham 15's, so side by side comparsions will be there.
RCF LF15X401 seems to be pretty neat, according to specs. Much like 15TBX100.
Double xmax compared to L15P540.
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Intresting studdy tonskulus, looking forward to your findings, I have heard from hifi users that deploy midbass drivers (high Bl, low qts, small Xmax, high sens.) in the Tham designs and are very happy with the definition and resolution they get, but this is low power usage, I would not recomend that aproach for proffesional use.
I tried the B&C 10MD26 in the tham10 and i can see why they like it, it sounds very nice, alot more punch and details than the faital 10hp1020 i currently use in them, but they allow for alot more power and spl.
I tried the B&C 10MD26 in the tham10 and i can see why they like it, it sounds very nice, alot more punch and details than the faital 10hp1020 i currently use in them, but they allow for alot more power and spl.
Just built another tham15 (well, thinking of making 4 total). Much more fun even with two!
Still using L15P540 drivers tho. These can take up to 500watts before some trouble/distortion/cone flapping occurs. HP 30Hz/LP80Hz (48dB BW), little boost for 40-50Hz to smooth out the response a bit.
Very punchy, aggressive and detailed bass indeed, but I think heavier cones like TBX100 will produce more lows and more SPL too. Will get tbx100's asab.
Short video
YouTube
About my previous findings with old RCF L15P540, it might have some defects. Shorted turn or something? I tested another old version which measured just fine, almost spot on with manufacturer specs!
Still using L15P540 drivers tho. These can take up to 500watts before some trouble/distortion/cone flapping occurs. HP 30Hz/LP80Hz (48dB BW), little boost for 40-50Hz to smooth out the response a bit.
Very punchy, aggressive and detailed bass indeed, but I think heavier cones like TBX100 will produce more lows and more SPL too. Will get tbx100's asab.
Short video
YouTube
About my previous findings with old RCF L15P540, it might have some defects. Shorted turn or something? I tested another old version which measured just fine, almost spot on with manufacturer specs!
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HA! Cosidering all these rip-offs in our country, we might be considered lucky regarding speakers than. The difference between 15TBX100 and 15NW100 is only $35 in our country, which should be considered as a worthy upgrade regarding motor force. It´s very unfortunate if you have to pay much more, but TBX100 is still a thoroughbred heavy duty speaker. Not a biggie. Faital has some interesting drivers, but again, not sure about prices and availabality in your place.
I cannot find any import for faitals but B&C is available. There is also Eminence but is not an option, not even close. Overpriced rubbish for my taste.
And ofcourse, Thomann which is good source too (I have ordered some 18" RCF's etc. from Thomann). Just looking for driver options from RCF and 18sound. Fane 15XS prime looks like a good candidate too!
For lowish budget, b&c 15ps100 seems to be ok too.
And ofcourse, Thomann which is good source too (I have ordered some 18" RCF's etc. from Thomann). Just looking for driver options from RCF and 18sound. Fane 15XS prime looks like a good candidate too!
For lowish budget, b&c 15ps100 seems to be ok too.
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Just managed to finish building two of these for a small outdoor event.
As it was a bit of a last minuite built i deceided to go for a cheap driver, the thomann 15LB100-8W which i have seen a few people mentioning on here.
As no one has posted any graphs on the driver so I grabbed a few screen shots when we were setting everything up:
NOTE these graphs have a BW 150 24db/oct Low pass already applied.
Response: 48hz - 140hz +-3db
The Red is a single Tham15 and the blue is two togehter. You defiently get the 6db increase on stacking these together but there is no change to the frequency response.
With this driver i would defiently set a highpass cutoff at 35hz 48db/oct at the very max, it really dosent like going lower.
We settled on BW 38hz 48db/oct & BW 120 24db/oct
Probably going to build another 2-4 of these so we can have 4/6 a side
As it was a bit of a last minuite built i deceided to go for a cheap driver, the thomann 15LB100-8W which i have seen a few people mentioning on here.
As no one has posted any graphs on the driver so I grabbed a few screen shots when we were setting everything up:
NOTE these graphs have a BW 150 24db/oct Low pass already applied.
Response: 48hz - 140hz +-3db
The Red is a single Tham15 and the blue is two togehter. You defiently get the 6db increase on stacking these together but there is no change to the frequency response.
With this driver i would defiently set a highpass cutoff at 35hz 48db/oct at the very max, it really dosent like going lower.
We settled on BW 38hz 48db/oct & BW 120 24db/oct
Probably going to build another 2-4 of these so we can have 4/6 a side
hello guys. i want to build 4 tham15 for my 4 Paudio e15lf. I build one for tests out of chipboard. in all graphs the xmax (6mm) is way passed, even with 400w power.
i can power them with a tamp 4 700 in three ways
1. 4 channels on each subwoofer 4x~490 8ohm
2. 2 channels in bridge for a pair 2x1800 4ohm
3. 2 channels NOT in bridge for 2x800w 4 ohm
i want to make 2 ch bringe only for some headroom, but the tentation to crank them up will be preety high.
i have an active crossover and 32band eq. will be cutted at 45hz and 90
i can power them with a tamp 4 700 in three ways
1. 4 channels on each subwoofer 4x~490 8ohm
2. 2 channels in bridge for a pair 2x1800 4ohm
3. 2 channels NOT in bridge for 2x800w 4 ohm
i want to make 2 ch bringe only for some headroom, but the tentation to crank them up will be preety high.
i have an active crossover and 32band eq. will be cutted at 45hz and 90
i made a simulation with e15lf in tham, and anotherone with e15lf in dual reflex cab (the cabs that are curently in). So my question is: will it worth it to build another th cab for these drivers? i like the way how th punch. My problem with the dual reflex is that they seems too soft for a 1.5kw subwoofer, and the lack of bass in front of them (but plenty in the back)
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Hi Jeferica,
Generally speaking, a single tham15 should have a similar output to a dual reflex cab due to the added efficiency of using the folded horn design. This means you need a lot less power (and can use cheaper amps) to get the same SPL when using the tham15.
The disadvantage is that the dual reflex cab will probably go a fair bit deeper.
Depending on the dual reflex cab you have a second Tham is likely to equate to having two dual reflex cab's.
Also when coupling multiple subs you will see a further 6db of efficiency so it's often worth getting a second sub and running them in Parallel to get 4ohm.
I've got a stack of 6 Tham's and jesus they are loud when stacked together....
Generally speaking, a single tham15 should have a similar output to a dual reflex cab due to the added efficiency of using the folded horn design. This means you need a lot less power (and can use cheaper amps) to get the same SPL when using the tham15.
The disadvantage is that the dual reflex cab will probably go a fair bit deeper.
Depending on the dual reflex cab you have a second Tham is likely to equate to having two dual reflex cab's.
Also when coupling multiple subs you will see a further 6db of efficiency so it's often worth getting a second sub and running them in Parallel to get 4ohm.
I've got a stack of 6 Tham's and jesus they are loud when stacked together....
Also a note on the Xmax question. xmax is when distortion reaches a THD of above 10%
What this all means is that once the xmax has been breached you should start to hear some very noticeable distortion.
xlim is the limit that the driver can take and damage will ocur.
One thing to note about simulations in horn resp is that it tends to over exaggerate peaks. In turn this can over exaggerate the diaphragm displacement measurements.
Best thing to do is a bit of trial and error. You will instantly know when your pushing it too hard as you will notice a large increase in distortion. Just don’t start by cranking it to the max
What this all means is that once the xmax has been breached you should start to hear some very noticeable distortion.
xlim is the limit that the driver can take and damage will ocur.
One thing to note about simulations in horn resp is that it tends to over exaggerate peaks. In turn this can over exaggerate the diaphragm displacement measurements.
Best thing to do is a bit of trial and error. You will instantly know when your pushing it too hard as you will notice a large increase in distortion. Just don’t start by cranking it to the max
i'm going to build two more also (now having a single pair). But I prefer the original mk1 as it seems to be the loudest / most extension after all. Every 45deg brace decreases the effective box volume and thus reduces the low freq efficiency. And I'm not willing to sacrifice that, in hope of a bit flatter upper response (above passband anyway?)..
Next thing anyway is to get new drivers. 15TBX100 - cannot go wrong
Next thing anyway is to get new drivers. 15TBX100 - cannot go wrong
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I normally do not do this, but on that topic I'd like to share something from speakerplans forum feedback section regarding THAM15 and 15TBX100.
From a user at speakerplans :
Link to the thread at speakerplans:
THAM15 38 days live show - Speakerplans.com Forums
Yes, I had a feeling that tbx100 should be very good for tham as it has heavier cone /strong motor.
The worst one I have tested was RCF L15P200AK, absolutely no go for Tham but very good standard reflex driver. Even tho it might look like a good candidate according to specs but in practice it just lacks something and sounds horrible. L15P540 is much better as example.
Red, P200AK. Blue, P540
The worst one I have tested was RCF L15P200AK, absolutely no go for Tham but very good standard reflex driver. Even tho it might look like a good candidate according to specs but in practice it just lacks something and sounds horrible. L15P540 is much better as example.
Red, P200AK. Blue, P540
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Those response curves illustrates the interesting thing I find about DIY THs in general. If I saw curves like that from a standard 4th order 6th order BP alignment that I was trying to put together, I'd toss the design and go back to the drawing board to come up with something better (like the attached, which shows a lot less out of band noise). But somehow a near identical FR curve is somehow acceptable if the alignment in question is a TH, and people have reported great success with it in actual use. Go figure...
