Yes, it can do floor and back wall or back wall and ceiling, or corner with floor and two walls or ceiling and two walls. No more than 3 surfaces though. Works very well for helping to figure out placement and mounting height to reduce floor bounce cancellation, etc.
Good to know I'm not missing something
I have heard of their software. I heard you have to contact them (as a customer who purchased a product of theirs) and request it - is this all true?
Maybe I should finally get to learning this thing. Been putting it off long enough
I had been using Meyer Sound's MAPP Online Pro for free until my last computer died, I have not checked in the last few years.
Merlijn van Veen has produced some nice sub prediction freeware:
"With pleasure I would like to announce that SAD V1.4 is available for download at www.merlijnvanveen.nl.
This latest version of SAD enables you to export the designs into Meyer Sound's MAPP Online Pro for increased accuracy based on real speaker data.
Please refer to the addendum to the manual for more information."
As far as DSL's DDT2 predictive software, I think it's also free, and does not require contacting them, though I use Mac and so far have not been able to work with it.
As far as using Akabak for helping to figure out placement and mounting height to reduce floor bounce cancellation, room modes are far more problematic than floor or ceiling bounce at low frequencies.
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Though they are similar to the real deal there is a potentially woofer killing mistake in those cabinets. Pretty bad form of that guy to mark up his scrap like that.
Roanoke interesting?
Well, not only "pretty bad" because it is HIGHLY unlikely to "just come across" these cabinets if they where to be the real deal.
I would say;
- Wrong type of wood, thus vibrating of the stage. These big boxes need to be made bombproof to last long and sound like they should.
- Wrong type of wood-joining, the are glued "cold" by which I mean no CNC inserted joints of panels into each other but just plane against each other (sorry for the bad English here).
- The craigslist is a kind of world-wide "open" sell your stuff internet medium. I would not want to use this to buy a $950 / each pile of wood and find out they don't work like they should. By "open" I mean not controlled or guaranteed in any way or form. Who is this "just happened to find" guy. can you trust your money here? I would not!
- There has been a "seen through" wireframe 3D design of this cabinet some years ago, and some of us have tried to draw up a plan from it. It looks like this is that plan, build with the wrong "waterproof" NOT 13 ply NOT birch multiplex.
- Just a quick add-up: $950 for the cabinet, $200 for a paint job, $400 for the driver, $200 for hardware / plugs / cable / wheels / speakerprotectionwiremesh. So $1750 for each to make some noise. If you would go to a local wood-workingshop and have it build with 13-ply Birch it would cost you around $400 - 500 for a rock solid CNC'ed version, with a plan from this forum combined with the correct type of driver. Just ask the forum if it would be okay to build your own by means of there plan would be fair enough i'd say.
In other words, NOT interesting, just a poor copy-cat, of which Danley and the likes would get fat up with (if they really should care, its crap any ways).
So far my penny's worth.
regards,
Frans
Well, not only "pretty bad" because it is HIGHLY unlikely to "just come across" these cabinets if they where to be the real deal.
I would say;
- Wrong type of wood, thus vibrating of the stage. These big boxes need to be made bombproof to last long and sound like they should.
- Wrong type of wood-joining, the are glued "cold" by which I mean no CNC inserted joints of panels into each other but just plane against each other (sorry for the bad English here).
- The craigslist is a kind of world-wide "open" sell your stuff internet medium. I would not want to use this to buy a $950 / each pile of wood and find out they don't work like they should. By "open" I mean not controlled or guaranteed in any way or form. Who is this "just happened to find" guy. can you trust your money here? I would not!
- There has been a "seen through" wireframe 3D design of this cabinet some years ago, and some of us have tried to draw up a plan from it. It looks like this is that plan, build with the wrong "waterproof" NOT 13 ply NOT birch multiplex.
- Just a quick add-up: $950 for the cabinet, $200 for a paint job, $400 for the driver, $200 for hardware / plugs / cable / wheels / speakerprotectionwiremesh. So $1750 for each to make some noise. If you would go to a local wood-workingshop and have it build with 13-ply Birch it would cost you around $400 - 500 for a rock solid CNC'ed version, with a plan from this forum combined with the correct type of driver. Just ask the forum if it would be okay to build your own by means of there plan would be fair enough i'd say.
In other words, NOT interesting, just a poor copy-cat, of which Danley and the likes would get fat up with (if they really should care, its crap any ways).
So far my penny's worth.
regards,
Frans
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Good News for me. The 18 Sound LW2500 woofer cost 383 each. Rock ON!!!!!!
So more Xmax than the 2400 and yet the same price roughly. Really love this company. Just wish they made a high Xmax 12" also. Thw 18 wont be available until September which means I might build mine around October. Unless I can build a proper 15" adapter. HHmmmmmm
So more Xmax than the 2400 and yet the same price roughly. Really love this company. Just wish they made a high Xmax 12" also. Thw 18 wont be available until September which means I might build mine around October. Unless I can build a proper 15" adapter. HHmmmmmm
Unfortunately every woofer outside of Australia cost an additional 150 dollars per roughly. So 18 Sounds I can get from the local dealer with NO adding shipping at all. Beyma is an option also but can always get a deal with them. 18 Sound seems to always be the best value by 100+ dollars for me here in OZ.
SO from SH's to SM100's I will try and use 18 Sound products for now. Although my 100's will most likely be Eminence. Maybe
And in regards to the adapter it was just so I could throw one of my 15's in the cabinet. My 15's are not ideal and better suited for a FLH but they work ok and I cant afford to build a bunch of different cabinets on my budget. SO I figured I would build one of these TH's and use an adapter until I can get an 18.
SO from SH's to SM100's I will try and use 18 Sound products for now. Although my 100's will most likely be Eminence.
MaybeAnd in regards to the adapter it was just so I could throw one of my 15's in the cabinet. My 15's are not ideal and better suited for a FLH but they work ok and I cant afford to build a bunch of different cabinets on my budget. SO I figured I would build one of these TH's and use an adapter until I can get an 18.
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The B&C 18SW115 are a bit less than $100 per drive shipping from PE if buying four. This is close to the same prices I have been quoted just for Australian internal freight.
I am planning to get four of these cnc'd and heard about the "CNC inserted joints" does this mean routed outside panels for internals to slot into?
Is there any other useful CNC tricks or best practice designs?
I am planning to get four of these cnc'd and heard about the "CNC inserted joints" does this mean routed outside panels for internals to slot into?
Is there any other useful CNC tricks or best practice designs?
Yep, added to the fact that sea shipped from krix can mean 2-4month wait time, compared to 1-2weeks from PE. The internal freight cost is mainly due to my remote location though 2400KM from nearest city, its not normal for aus. The LW2500 sounds like great value though pity its not available right now as I need to get the ball rolling.
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