Looks like the rotary switch I used here is out of stock everywhere. If you need one, there are two other options:
71ADF30-01-2-AJN is the same switch with a 1/8" shaft (you'd need a different knob and maybe some washers to mount it to the panel).
71BF30-01-2-05N is the same switch with fixed stops at 5 position. You only need the first 4 and the switch will move an extra position clockwise, but it should fit and work fine.
Both are in stock at Newark, and the 1/8" shaft part also at Allied.
Pete
71ADF30-01-2-AJN is the same switch with a 1/8" shaft (you'd need a different knob and maybe some washers to mount it to the panel).
71BF30-01-2-05N is the same switch with fixed stops at 5 position. You only need the first 4 and the switch will move an extra position clockwise, but it should fit and work fine.
Both are in stock at Newark, and the 1/8" shaft part also at Allied.
Pete
It's actually less expensive to buy directly from Red Lion. For the Digikey price, I got the backlit green version.
Red Lion Panel Meter Miscellaneous
EDIT: Oops...I guess it was already mentioned!
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Pete: on the front/rear panels...they smelled burnt when I opened the package - might I assume they are laser cut?
Would you explain how this process is done? They look very, very professional.
In fact, the whole thing is quite nice. I was this close to putting a BOM together for a much less-nice interface. I was building a precision resistive divider pad and a Jensen isolation transformer box plus a panel mounted monitor speaker, resistive 500W load and level indicator LEDs, with - ironically - the same RMS/DC converter IC. I'll still probably build the LED meter so I can watch the voltage more dynamically than the meter will give me.
$50 was a steal compared to building it myself. I know it's a ton more work, but would you consider having them kitted up for, say, $250 or so?
Would you explain how this process is done? They look very, very professional.
In fact, the whole thing is quite nice. I was this close to putting a BOM together for a much less-nice interface. I was building a precision resistive divider pad and a Jensen isolation transformer box plus a panel mounted monitor speaker, resistive 500W load and level indicator LEDs, with - ironically - the same RMS/DC converter IC. I'll still probably build the LED meter so I can watch the voltage more dynamically than the meter will give me.
$50 was a steal compared to building it myself. I know it's a ton more work, but would you consider having them kitted up for, say, $250 or so?
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Yes, they are done on a laser. The smell is annoying but persistant - I clean them with isopropyl alcohol which removes some of the sticky gunk but they still have that odor.
Basically, you use special 2-layer plastic material that's designed to be processed on the laser. You generate artwork (usuually in Corel draw), using different colors that correspond to different laser power levels. Low power only cuts through the outer layer, which is a different color than the base layer. High power cuts all the way through.
I think it looks pretty good for the relative low cost and ease of setup...
I've thought about kits but it's a hassle and expense, carrying all the parts in inventory. I'd have to buy a lot of material to get the cost low enough to make it practical...
Pete
Hi Grufti,
about removing the "zero adjust parts", what exactly did you take off and/or jumpered? R24-25-26?
Thanks,
I'm still trying to get my M-Audio 192 working with the interface and AudioTester. I thought I screwed up the sound card and sent it back on an RMA. They found no problems so I'm back to re-installing it (for the umpteenth time). Audio tester and the sound interface work fine together with a Soundblaster Audigy.
When I install the M-192, I'm only installing the driver CD. Do I need to install any other SW to get it to work? The installation instructions that came with the card leave something to be desired, like details.
When I install the M-192, I'm only installing the driver CD. Do I need to install any other SW to get it to work? The installation instructions that came with the card leave something to be desired, like details.
I finally got mine assembled, but haven't had time to use it(!). I used the backlit LCD only to find that it doesn't quite fit, depthwise. I should have read the datasheet: the backlighting adds about 1/8". So, I hacked the display with a 90 degree pin header and blammo! Works. And I can see it in the dark. You know...for testing amps in the dark. Heh.
Thanks for a great design.
Thanks for a great design.
What cable are y'all using to interface from your soundcard to the interface and to the amp you are testing?
It looks like Belden 9394 is now obsolete. Belden 8216 (RG-174/U, p 1081) looks like a reasonable replacement but is only 90% woven shield coverage.
There is also Alpha 1703 Microphone cable (p 1056), but Mouser does not even list the % shield coverage so it is probably 90% as well.
It looks like Belden 9394 is now obsolete. Belden 8216 (RG-174/U, p 1081) looks like a reasonable replacement but is only 90% woven shield coverage.
There is also Alpha 1703 Microphone cable (p 1056), but Mouser does not even list the % shield coverage so it is probably 90% as well.
I have some of this -- dual shielded twisted pair -- it's approximately $0.82/foot so if anyone wants some let me know.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cable
I used some 4 wire microphone cable at 2+ Euro, it's a German brand but I presume other companies such as Belden have similar cables: SC-SQUARE 4-CORE MKII HIGHFLEX [200-0301]
The point is that you can configure it as starquad +-+- thus greatly reducing noise pickup compared to a twisted pair, so imperfect shielding would be less of an issue.
I used some 4 wire microphone cable at 2+ Euro, it's a German brand but I presume other companies such as Belden have similar cables: SC-SQUARE 4-CORE MKII HIGHFLEX [200-0301]
The point is that you can configure it as starquad +-+- thus greatly reducing noise pickup compared to a twisted pair, so imperfect shielding would be less of an issue.
diode capacitance
Hi Kevin,
you pointed out the importance of using low Cj diodes, in the Jig protection section: would you like to explain the reason? For example, what would change in using diodes with Ct=2pF (1N4148) or ones with Ct=15pF (1N4001)?
The high-frequency drop down will be the same, in the audio band and beyond.
Thanks.
Claudio
Hi Kevin,
you pointed out the importance of using low Cj diodes, in the Jig protection section: would you like to explain the reason? For example, what would change in using diodes with Ct=2pF (1N4148) or ones with Ct=15pF (1N4001)?
The high-frequency drop down will be the same, in the audio band and beyond.
Thanks.
Claudio
I was going to order parts for this from mouser/digikey, but ran into problems because quite many parts seems to be out of stock and I don't know which parts would be suitable replacements.
Cap, 0.1uF 50V film, 5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-V1H104JL5
Cap, 1uF 400V film, 22.5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-E4105KF
IC, quad exclusive OR gate, 74HC86, DIP14
Is this proper alternative:
771-74HC86N
Conn, 1/4" phone jack Neutrik NYS216
Is this proper alternative:
568-NYS216/2
Conn, RA socket header
&
DC/DC converter, +5 to +/-15V
No idea for replacement part
Cap, 0.1uF 50V film, 5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-V1H104JL5
Cap, 1uF 400V film, 22.5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-E4105KF
IC, quad exclusive OR gate, 74HC86, DIP14
Is this proper alternative:
771-74HC86N
Conn, 1/4" phone jack Neutrik NYS216
Is this proper alternative:
568-NYS216/2
Conn, RA socket header
&
DC/DC converter, +5 to +/-15V
No idea for replacement part
Replacement part
Cap, 1uF 400V film, 22.5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-E4105KF
This part is a polyester film cap and is at the input of the sound card interface. From memory, polyester film caps showed small but measurable distortions in Cyril Bateman's tests (search for his home page). Personally, I would only use a polypropylene cap in this position.
My 2 cents.
Cap, 1uF 400V film, 22.5mm LS
Is this proper alternative:
667-ECQ-E4105KF
This part is a polyester film cap and is at the input of the sound card interface. From memory, polyester film caps showed small but measurable distortions in Cyril Bateman's tests (search for his home page). Personally, I would only use a polypropylene cap in this position.
My 2 cents.
I don't mind switching parts for more expensive, higher quality alternatives, but preferably those parts would be available from mouser, because I need to order something additional for 20-30$ from mouser to get free shipping. With DigiKey this isn't a problem, because the free shipping limit aldready exceeds.
I'm just not that experienced with electronics that I could pick the parts myself.
I'm just not that experienced with electronics that I could pick the parts myself.
I'm expecting this would be a good alternative:
505-MKP41/400/10
But, it's out of stock. Both DigiKey and Mouser seems have very bad stock atm, and estimations for the parts to arrive, is months.
Edit:
How about his:
P12207-ND
The lead spacing is 2,5mm narrower, but I guess that wouldn't be a problem.
505-MKP41/400/10
But, it's out of stock. Both DigiKey and Mouser seems have very bad stock atm, and estimations for the parts to arrive, is months.
Edit:
How about his:
P12207-ND
The lead spacing is 2,5mm narrower, but I guess that wouldn't be a problem.
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