Their blurb is carefully worded so they don't make an explicit claim that the plots show real measurements on real cables, rather than simulations of a simple CR network. Not sure if that would get them around a Trading Standards officer if he was in a bad mood. I love the final sentence, saying that unlike all the others they don't use hyperbole because they are on the side of the audiophile.
As you're talking Pounds, I assume you're in the UK. Take your pick from one of these and spend the difference on music.
Hi ziocalepino,
Don't waste your money on cables with some unobtanium parts, the only thing you need is a cable with low resistance. If you like big cables go to your local car shop and by 4mm2 audio cables. Low resistance, low price and works like a charm!
To back up my story a little, I am the happy owner of 4 pieces of 4M Van Den Hull CS - 122 HYBRID with WBT connectors. Works fine and looks good but certainly not better as standard copper and it set me back E100,- a pop..
Don't waste your money on cables with some unobtanium parts, the only thing you need is a cable with low resistance. If you like big cables go to your local car shop and by 4mm2 audio cables. Low resistance, low price and works like a charm!
To back up my story a little, I am the happy owner of 4 pieces of 4M Van Den Hull CS - 122 HYBRID with WBT connectors. Works fine and looks good but certainly not better as standard copper and it set me back E100,- a pop..
Just seen a glowing review of tellurium cables in the latest (March 2012) HiFi World. They were so good that the reviewer could not think of a single Con to balance against the Pros in the summary. His description gave the impression that his old (pre-tellurium) cables must have been creaming off so much detail that it was like buying a new system, yet I bet they (whatever they were) had a similarly glowing review last year. The eye-watering price did not seem to bother him, so I think journalists must be paid too much. I decided not to buy the magazine, as I don't want to encourage this sort of thing.
My speaker cable decisions always depend on the distance and current (impedance and power) involved. I like good simple copper low-resistance oxygen-free (nice clean copper-colored) stranded cable. I've found places that sell 10 guage in clear vinyl on 100-foot rolls and I've been quite happy with it indoors, though it's no good outside (vinyl doesn't hold up, neither does rubber). It looks just like the early Monster cable but cheaper. But that's for high-current high-powered applications, like when I run my bass drivers in parallel for 3 ohm off dedicated amp channels. If I run the same bass drivers at 6 ohm off more dedicated amp channels the cable is less critical as there's half the current. If I put them in series for 12 ohm and drive them with 2 amp channels bridged, that's half the current again, and #14 lamp cord will work as well as anything. If you gave me silver wire, I'd sell it and use the money for better things.
If you have fussy output section or a weird load, that's a different story. But usually I'm more concerned with the terminations than with the details of the cable itself, as long as it has reasonably low capacitance and inductance and the resistance is lower than required. I remember seeing guys spend big bucks on cables, then wind them around a steel speaker support...dumb.
If you have fussy output section or a weird load, that's a different story. But usually I'm more concerned with the terminations than with the details of the cable itself, as long as it has reasonably low capacitance and inductance and the resistance is lower than required. I remember seeing guys spend big bucks on cables, then wind them around a steel speaker support...dumb.
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