Hi,
I recently got an SL-10 myself. It came with a EPC-310MC cartridge with the needle broken off.
Does anybody have any tips how this cartridge can be restored?
Also, I can get an EPC-P205C MK3 cartridge. Does anybody know if it's worth it compared to my current Ortofon U320?
The SL-10 itself works beautifully and is in very good condition. 2 or 3 very minor scratches which can really hardly be seen, but that is about it. Cover was good already but I polished/waxed it anyway. Looking good!
Cheers
I recently got an SL-10 myself. It came with a EPC-310MC cartridge with the needle broken off.
Does anybody have any tips how this cartridge can be restored?
Also, I can get an EPC-P205C MK3 cartridge. Does anybody know if it's worth it compared to my current Ortofon U320?
The SL-10 itself works beautifully and is in very good condition. 2 or 3 very minor scratches which can really hardly be seen, but that is about it. Cover was good already but I polished/waxed it anyway. Looking good!
Cheers
Thanks for the replies guys!
I managed to get my hands on ANOTHER SL-10 that came with a 310MC cart in good condition. It sounds pretty good to my ears.
I also bought that new old stock Technics EPC-P205C MK3 (seemed like a fair deal to me at 79 euro). I will put that in the other SL-10 and
check how that sounds.
I will definitely condsider the Ortofon OMP-40, although I believe they don't sell that anymore, which means I would have to buy an OMP-10 AND an OM-40 to make it work.
I'm also condsidering the Ortofon X1-MCP, which happens to be a P-mount MC cart.
I managed to get my hands on ANOTHER SL-10 that came with a 310MC cart in good condition. It sounds pretty good to my ears.
I also bought that new old stock Technics EPC-P205C MK3 (seemed like a fair deal to me at 79 euro). I will put that in the other SL-10 and
check how that sounds.
I will definitely condsider the Ortofon OMP-40, although I believe they don't sell that anymore, which means I would have to buy an OMP-10 AND an OM-40 to make it work.
I'm also condsidering the Ortofon X1-MCP, which happens to be a P-mount MC cart.
i have long been a linear tracking fan...but i don't own a linear tracking deck. i am too afraid of getting some generic crappy plastic piece of crap since there don't seem to have been many truly high quality LTs(Beograms don't count) and so i figure it'd be smartest to stick to early Technics LT decks, although i've seen some Sonys and Pioneers that looked like they could have been decent. I actually recently passed on a completely mint SL-10 with the original 310MC cartridge that was for sale locally...it was only slightly out of my price range but i had a lot of other things to spend money on...like my textbooks 
maybe i'll find one this summer.
glad there are other people who like zero tracking error
maybe i'll find one this summer.
glad there are other people who like zero tracking error
B&O made some very nice LT tables with the 4000 series. Also the Yamaha PX-1 and PX-2, and the Sony PS-X800 and PS-X555ES are very nice tables, as is the Pioneer PL-1000.
You can find some pics and info on them here:
http://www.thevintageknob.org/
It's a shame that the cheap plastic crap LT tables that followed later on gave LT a bad name...
You can find some pics and info on them here:
http://www.thevintageknob.org/
It's a shame that the cheap plastic crap LT tables that followed later on gave LT a bad name...
hi frnds
i have got a sl-10 turntable but when i play it the needle doesnt track and remaint still on the same position.I opened the upper cover and found that the arm motor doesnt pull the tonearm. Everything beside it is working well like,on closing the upper cover and pushing the start button the platter moves and the tonearm comes down and when i keep the start button pushing the tone arm moves in uniformly.The only problem is that the needle remain at the same posintion on the record and doesnt move step by step.I have got the manual but couldn't find out the problem.
It would be a great help if any friend help me out plzzzzzzzzz.
best regards
i have got a sl-10 turntable but when i play it the needle doesnt track and remaint still on the same position.I opened the upper cover and found that the arm motor doesnt pull the tonearm. Everything beside it is working well like,on closing the upper cover and pushing the start button the platter moves and the tonearm comes down and when i keep the start button pushing the tone arm moves in uniformly.The only problem is that the needle remain at the same posintion on the record and doesnt move step by step.I have got the manual but couldn't find out the problem.
It would be a great help if any friend help me out plzzzzzzzzz.
best regards
SL-10 Cartridge
Hi Everyone,
New to the forum today and read all the postings on the SL-10 and other models mentioned. I have an SL-10 I purchased 20 some years ago and it is working perfectly. Since the CD-ROM came along and all the fancy recording equipment I decided to transfer all my vinyl to CD-ROM. I have a good start but a long way to go. Before I started the transfer I decided to replace the cartridge, trying to locate one was not an easy task. After some research I located several at Radio Shack. They probably are not the quality of the original but sound as great or equal to the original, the cost was around US $25. I do not know if this will be of any help because Radio Shack is not every where you might be. Here is the link to what is available: http://www.radioshack.com/search/in...no+cartridge&kwCatId=&kw=phono+cartridge&pg=1
The cartridge comes with adapter pieces to fit to just about any turntable made but plugs right into the tone arm of the SL-10 like the original cartridge. Hope this might be of some help to all concerned.
Hi Everyone,
New to the forum today and read all the postings on the SL-10 and other models mentioned. I have an SL-10 I purchased 20 some years ago and it is working perfectly. Since the CD-ROM came along and all the fancy recording equipment I decided to transfer all my vinyl to CD-ROM. I have a good start but a long way to go. Before I started the transfer I decided to replace the cartridge, trying to locate one was not an easy task. After some research I located several at Radio Shack. They probably are not the quality of the original but sound as great or equal to the original, the cost was around US $25. I do not know if this will be of any help because Radio Shack is not every where you might be. Here is the link to what is available: http://www.radioshack.com/search/in...no+cartridge&kwCatId=&kw=phono+cartridge&pg=1
The cartridge comes with adapter pieces to fit to just about any turntable made but plugs right into the tone arm of the SL-10 like the original cartridge. Hope this might be of some help to all concerned.
HI SL-10 owners!!
I just get one of those all time great turntables,BUT like all of you needle broken..
Did try some ortofon's TM7U,320u..cheap sound better sounding than on regular turntable,but still cheap sound...
Bought few days ago Shure M94EP...sounding too MM-wich I dislike.
Anyone tried Ortofon X1mc on Sl10?.or some of those expensier Audio Tehnica 316p or so?
I just get one of those all time great turntables,BUT like all of you needle broken..
Did try some ortofon's TM7U,320u..cheap sound better sounding than on regular turntable,but still cheap sound...
Bought few days ago Shure M94EP...sounding too MM-wich I dislike.
Anyone tried Ortofon X1mc on Sl10?.or some of those expensier Audio Tehnica 316p or so?
Repair your dead SL-10
Hi all.
My SL-10 developed this sickness of getting stucked.
When playing, the tonearm just wouldn't go this or that direction.
I can see that others have the same problem.
The real problem is the capacitors on the Control PCB.
They leak. Remember. They're almost 27 years old.
Replace the 4 capacitors and you're flying again.
I'm pretty sure that the Control PCB on SL-7, SL-10 and SL-15 are similar.
Kindest regards
Brian Hougaard Baldersbæk
Hi all.
My SL-10 developed this sickness of getting stucked.
When playing, the tonearm just wouldn't go this or that direction.
I can see that others have the same problem.
The real problem is the capacitors on the Control PCB.
They leak. Remember. They're almost 27 years old.
Replace the 4 capacitors and you're flying again.
I'm pretty sure that the Control PCB on SL-7, SL-10 and SL-15 are similar.
Kindest regards
Brian Hougaard Baldersbæk
Reply to 101er
101er,
You mentioned as an aside in this thread that you had another turntable called " The oak ".
I was the co-founder in 1982 of Oak Audio.........
Please email me with questions and I will try to answer.
Regards
John
acousticimagery@hotmail.com
101er,
You mentioned as an aside in this thread that you had another turntable called " The oak ".
I was the co-founder in 1982 of Oak Audio.........
Please email me with questions and I will try to answer.
Regards
John
acousticimagery@hotmail.com
My SL-10 came with Audio-technics T4P AT412EP/OCC. I don't know if it's good or not, but it sounds good to me. I did a little adjustment of the pressure to bring up the High frequency (according to the manual) and it worked.
If someone want to have this cartridge, I know where to get it (of course second hand) in around £30-£40.
Hope this helps.
By the way, mine one now is developing the stuck tonarm problem. Previously someone mentioned that 4 capacitors need to be changed. Can somebody help?
If someone want to have this cartridge, I know where to get it (of course second hand) in around £30-£40.
Hope this helps.
By the way, mine one now is developing the stuck tonarm problem. Previously someone mentioned that 4 capacitors need to be changed. Can somebody help?
When disassembling the SL-10, using the servicemanual, I found out, that it's better to take off the dust cover before the upper cover.
The upper cover area around the supporter, is by then much easier to remove. Otherwise there's a risk of damaging the, by aging fragile, upper cover.
The Control PCB has 4 blue electrolytic capacitors that surely needs replacement.
An important factor is to get new ones, that are as small as the original ones.
The Control PCB can also be fragile.
A way to tell, is to look at the lamp housing.
The lamp itself is 12 Volts lightbulb and if used throughout many years, the housing itself get so fragile, that it really falls apart between your fingers.
If this is the case, be a bit more careful, when handling the Control PCB.
The upper cover area around the supporter, is by then much easier to remove. Otherwise there's a risk of damaging the, by aging fragile, upper cover.
The Control PCB has 4 blue electrolytic capacitors that surely needs replacement.
An important factor is to get new ones, that are as small as the original ones.
The Control PCB can also be fragile.
A way to tell, is to look at the lamp housing.
The lamp itself is 12 Volts lightbulb and if used throughout many years, the housing itself get so fragile, that it really falls apart between your fingers.
If this is the case, be a bit more careful, when handling the Control PCB.
Hello -
I just got a Technics SL-10 and the arm won't move but everything else seems to be ok. I see this has happened to others and that the caps may need to be replaced. I'm not super confident with this level of repair -- can anyone recommend someone on the San Francisco area? It's also missing the ground wire (eBay!) -- is there a simple fix for that?
Thank you,
Mike
I just got a Technics SL-10 and the arm won't move but everything else seems to be ok. I see this has happened to others and that the caps may need to be replaced. I'm not super confident with this level of repair -- can anyone recommend someone on the San Francisco area? It's also missing the ground wire (eBay!) -- is there a simple fix for that?
Thank you,
Mike
m1brown said:
jello
The other day I was taking of the cover of my SL and without cover it did not work...arm and platter???I was mad for some time..But when I put it back it work again??
It simply dont work without cover..funny.
If you have manuals any qualified electronic repair shop can do do check
if you dont have manual and service look at vynile engine thy have huge library..
cheers
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