vrds-7 truuble
Hi Alfsch & members
i've just got a problem with my vrds-7. it seems that the player can't read most of my cd's. i've played a cd - works fine. one week later, same cd the player jumps within the songs. sometimes it play's a few seconds well then the player jumps for a few seconds or even a minute. i cleaned the laser after the problems started. doesn't work
Any ideas?????
thx Erich
Hi Alfsch & members
i've just got a problem with my vrds-7. it seems that the player can't read most of my cd's. i've played a cd - works fine. one week later, same cd the player jumps within the songs. sometimes it play's a few seconds well then the player jumps for a few seconds or even a minute. i cleaned the laser after the problems started. doesn't work
Any ideas?????
thx Erich
It could be many things so you will have to try to work out what could be causing the trouble first.
I would suggest removing the lids (there's 2).
Load a CD either with the unit on or by winding the large cog that actuates the loading tray and clamp mechanism.
The CD should be firmly clamped to the underside of the plastic disc in the transport.
Try spinning the disc. It should move quite freely and continue to spin for a second or two before stopping. Also the CD should be fully clamped to the disc. The disc has some holes in it. Use a marker pen to mark the CD through the hole. After a couple of spins by hand the mark should be exactly in its original position.
If the disc does not spin freely or if the CD it not clamped to the disc you probably have a problem with the transport. It all this seems fine the problem may be with the laser head or servo control electronics. However don't rule out simple things like a duff spindle motor or lubricant that has turned to something that has the consistancy of sticky jam.
Let us know if you discover anything.
I would suggest removing the lids (there's 2).
Load a CD either with the unit on or by winding the large cog that actuates the loading tray and clamp mechanism.
The CD should be firmly clamped to the underside of the plastic disc in the transport.
Try spinning the disc. It should move quite freely and continue to spin for a second or two before stopping. Also the CD should be fully clamped to the disc. The disc has some holes in it. Use a marker pen to mark the CD through the hole. After a couple of spins by hand the mark should be exactly in its original position.
If the disc does not spin freely or if the CD it not clamped to the disc you probably have a problem with the transport. It all this seems fine the problem may be with the laser head or servo control electronics. However don't rule out simple things like a duff spindle motor or lubricant that has turned to something that has the consistancy of sticky jam.
Let us know if you discover anything.
Hi Friends,
i've just startet to check stuff like primalsea wrote. take the player out of the rack, open the lid's, plug it in, press start
the player works just fine with any cd. i don't know what happend. maybee it needed just some fresh air. close the player again, back to the rack, make all connections. player work's like on the first day
thx Erich
i've just startet to check stuff like primalsea wrote. take the player out of the rack, open the lid's, plug it in, press start
the player works just fine with any cd. i don't know what happend. maybee it needed just some fresh air. close the player again, back to the rack, make all connections. player work's like on the first day thx Erich
Sometimes at work our eithernet stops working but all hardware and software seems OK.
When this happens we pull out & then push back in a few times all the network cables.
As far as we can gather the contacts seems to tarnish and they just need a bit of a clean.
Maybe this is what you had either on your contacts or some kind of mechanical version of this.
When this happens we pull out & then push back in a few times all the network cables.
As far as we can gather the contacts seems to tarnish and they just need a bit of a clean.
Maybe this is what you had either on your contacts or some kind of mechanical version of this.
Hi all
I also have a problem with my vrds 7 cd player.
Suddenly one week ago, my vrds 7 began to make some noise due to the spinning of the cd loaded. Sometimes it can´t read the TOC, some times read it, but there is always a failure playing, because it read like if I push the forward search button.
I have opened the player looking for the problem, and then I´ve removed the clamping device (a black plastic disc joined to a metal plate that holds the motor above it).
Well, there is a little magnet (like a ring) between the clamping disc and the metal plate that is unbalanced. The magnet is rubbing the screws thart hold the motor to the plate, and this is the reason of the noise, and also the reason of the problems reading CD´s (at least I think so!
I´ve tried to put the magnet in its correct position by pushing it with a blade, but it returns to the unbalanced position. It seems like if it has a spring below (inside the axis ot the clamping disc) that is pushing outside the magnet.
MY QUESTION: How I can desmount the clamping device? I´ve tried to do it, but I am fear to break it down, and it would be a pity!!
Anyone had a problem like this? I have the manual and the schematics of the TEAC T1 transport (it is VRDS7 player without the audio stage: the same VRDS mechanism, the same servo-pcb circuit.....)
Well, that´s all. Please help me, and apologize my awful english.
I also have a problem with my vrds 7 cd player.
Suddenly one week ago, my vrds 7 began to make some noise due to the spinning of the cd loaded. Sometimes it can´t read the TOC, some times read it, but there is always a failure playing, because it read like if I push the forward search button.
I have opened the player looking for the problem, and then I´ve removed the clamping device (a black plastic disc joined to a metal plate that holds the motor above it).
Well, there is a little magnet (like a ring) between the clamping disc and the metal plate that is unbalanced. The magnet is rubbing the screws thart hold the motor to the plate, and this is the reason of the noise, and also the reason of the problems reading CD´s (at least I think so!
I´ve tried to put the magnet in its correct position by pushing it with a blade, but it returns to the unbalanced position. It seems like if it has a spring below (inside the axis ot the clamping disc) that is pushing outside the magnet.
MY QUESTION: How I can desmount the clamping device? I´ve tried to do it, but I am fear to break it down, and it would be a pity!!
Anyone had a problem like this? I have the manual and the schematics of the TEAC T1 transport (it is VRDS7 player without the audio stage: the same VRDS mechanism, the same servo-pcb circuit.....)
Well, that´s all. Please help me, and apologize my awful english.
Teac VRDS 7 assy&control board
Hi all -
I have a Copland 288 cd unit...and guess what ...? It uses the Teac VRDS 7 innards (transport/servo control pcb).
Well, I had ordered a pair of silver paper in oil Mcap capacitors to replace the o/p caps (0.47uf) of the Copland's output board.
The trouble is, when I fitted it all back together, the transport will not open/close the draw any more, and when I switch the power off, the display goes quirky and goes brighter momentarily.
Can anyone help out with the circuit diagram for the servo control board so I can make a stab at some fault-finding ?? I'd be more than welcome to share with you all the info I have & the upgrades I'm gonna make over the next few months, as I'm quite happy with the deck, but just want to squeeze a bit more performance out of it !
{Thanks for ur help guys...}
-Andy-
Hi all
- I have a Copland 288 cd unit...and guess what ...? It uses the Teac VRDS 7 innards (transport/servo control pcb).
Well, I had ordered a pair of silver paper in oil Mcap capacitors to replace the o/p caps (0.47uf) of the Copland's output board.
The trouble is, when I fitted it all back together, the transport will not open/close the draw any more, and when I switch the power off, the display goes quirky and goes brighter momentarily.
Can anyone help out with the circuit diagram for the servo control board so I can make a stab at some fault-finding ?? I'd be more than welcome to share with you all the info I have & the upgrades I'm gonna make over the next few months, as I'm quite happy with the deck, but just want to squeeze a bit more performance out of it !
{Thanks for ur help guys...}
-Andy-
Hi again !
Well - It's sorted !!!!!!!!!!!!
Copland is up and running.....and no small thanks to Andreas of
www.audiotuning.de !!!
After obtaining the schematics of the VRDS_10, I took a sniff around, checking that the correct supply voltages were present.
I was tracing the loss of 10v & 5v supply on the servo pcb, and I eventually found that one of the Smoothing caps
(its the tallest one on the servo board) was not getting its supply from the upstream rectifier.
THE PROBLEM ??? - It turned out to be ...on top of the cap is a sticky-backed cable tie, placed there to support an
overhead conduit of bunched cables. Well, the stress from movement of this cable conduit whilst doing my upgrades
had stressed the capacitors' contacts- which in turn stressed-and then cracked the pcb track !!
So, one short wire link across the capacitor leg-to the bared pcb track-to the corresponding rectifier dc leg
has restored the power feed....and yessssssss....one working Copland 288 !!!!
I hope this pointer can help anyone else out !
best regards,
-Andy-
Well - It's sorted !!!!!!!!!!!!
Copland is up and running.....and no small thanks to Andreas of
www.audiotuning.de !!!
After obtaining the schematics of the VRDS_10, I took a sniff around, checking that the correct supply voltages were present.
I was tracing the loss of 10v & 5v supply on the servo pcb, and I eventually found that one of the Smoothing caps
(its the tallest one on the servo board) was not getting its supply from the upstream rectifier.
THE PROBLEM ??? - It turned out to be ...on top of the cap is a sticky-backed cable tie, placed there to support an
overhead conduit of bunched cables. Well, the stress from movement of this cable conduit whilst doing my upgrades
had stressed the capacitors' contacts- which in turn stressed-and then cracked the pcb track !!
So, one short wire link across the capacitor leg-to the bared pcb track-to the corresponding rectifier dc leg
has restored the power feed....and yessssssss....one working Copland 288 !!!!
I hope this pointer can help anyone else out !
best regards,
-Andy-
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.