I used to use another avatar, Bob, but changed it when I had a bad experience as a moderator of a computer board with some nasty US redneck trolls. system7 was, of course the talented Steve Hillage's band name, and the best Apple Macintosh PC operating system from way back when. But to me, it means "System's Heaven". I worked as a system engineer in telephone telecoms back in the day. I'd modestly claim some solid grounding in many aspects of signal reproduction and fidelity. To me, good solutions work at many levels. 
Back to your TDL RTL3SE speakers. The two way RTL1 is doubtless easily converted to a series MTM. Just a question of doubling inductance and resistance and halving capacitance on the bass circuit. It all works nicely, and converting a good two way to a series MTM is trivial. I do it below.
I suspect that you can convert this speaker to a 40L closed box or aperiodic by simply stuffing the ports with old socks. Should be less boomy. it is of course less efficient, but has easier impedance for the amp.
OK, it's a bit rough and ready, but I think you can get this working with the metal SEAS 22TAF/G. Metal tweeters sound a bit, er, metallic, but are about the cleanest dome tweeters to use.
Back to your TDL RTL3SE speakers. The two way RTL1 is doubtless easily converted to a series MTM. Just a question of doubling inductance and resistance and halving capacitance on the bass circuit. It all works nicely, and converting a good two way to a series MTM is trivial. I do it below.
I suspect that you can convert this speaker to a 40L closed box or aperiodic by simply stuffing the ports with old socks. Should be less boomy. it is of course less efficient, but has easier impedance for the amp.
OK, it's a bit rough and ready, but I think you can get this working with the metal SEAS 22TAF/G. Metal tweeters sound a bit, er, metallic, but are about the cleanest dome tweeters to use.
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I'm impressed ...and not a little indebted. That gives me a pretty comprehensive project to get going with. I'll give myself a crash course on 'How To Read A Circuit Diagram' and start sourcing the bits'n'bobs as soon as (any suggestions as to the best suppliers?).
Stuffing holes with old socks? I think not, apart from the fact that any old sock of mine would undoubtedly have adverse effects on whatever finally came out of the speaker, the making of cabinets is mostly what attracted me to the whole idea of diy speakers in the first place. I'm geussing that being a closed box means I can be a little more adventurous on the design/shape(?)
I'm off to sharpen m'pencil
Stuffing holes with old socks? I think not, apart from the fact that any old sock of mine would undoubtedly have adverse effects on whatever finally came out of the speaker, the making of cabinets is mostly what attracted me to the whole idea of diy speakers in the first place. I'm geussing that being a closed box means I can be a little more adventurous on the design/shape(?)
I'm off to sharpen m'pencil
I like audio-components because delivery is far quicker than hificollective (it's very rare that they don't have something in stock) and they don't add VAT and delivery on top of the price. Jantzen components are good quality too.
I notice you quote W 170S in your scheme/charts. So is that the final conclusion as to what these drivers are?
Thanks for that ...Audio Components easily have the best price for the 22TAF G tweeters.
Nope, they are Elac poly's. I just used Visaton drive units to run the sim.
Your crossover is going to look a bit like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I mostly got my bits from Wilmslow, 4 7 fd MKP Capacitor. They're fine.
BTW, exact values aren't all that critical. 4.4 mH or 4 mH, who cares?
Nope, they are Elac poly's. I just used Visaton drive units to run the sim.
Your crossover is going to look a bit like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I mostly got my bits from Wilmslow, 4 7 fd MKP Capacitor. They're fine.
BTW, exact values aren't all that critical. 4.4 mH or 4 mH, who cares?
Ah ...I clearly have a lot to learn (grasshopper)
Now you've made me feel guilty ...I haven't touched my RTLs, even after all that fuss and questioning! I think I was a little worried about maybe ruining what are basically pretty good speakers.
I have, however, since made some new cabinets for some Nads that I also had ...I must post some pics.
By the way Fivetide, they have to be the most 'normous crossovers ever. How do they sound?
I have, however, since made some new cabinets for some Nads that I also had ...I must post some pics.
By the way Fivetide, they have to be the most 'normous crossovers ever. How do they sound?
They "did" sound stunning ! lol but atm they are in storage as I really dont have anything good to drive them . It had to do with an ex gf and her strange idea I loved music more than her ! oh and a 2nd floor window..plus concreate paving slabs. Luckily I had the speakers at my workshop..
I have three sets of TDL's ...2 x Mk 1's and 1 Mk 2's plus the drivers out of the pair I upgraded which I intend to make a front speaker with.
The current Mk 2's are on my desktop and the other pair are for rear surround sound speakers. (when I sort a new amp out lol )
They are excellent speakers tbh out of the box.. but i dont regret upgrading them, although in hindsight I might have just done a "much smaller" upgraded "cross-over" and new wireing plus some damping and then see how they sounded.
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