I haven't come across any affordable ones commercially available so far. Your best bet is still to make one yourself. Though, you can have a go with the one you mentioned, it is so incredibly cheap you can't go wrong on it.
The fact that it is isolated will make it perform resonably decent at least.
I could probably modify such a board to output up to +/- 60Vdc just by altering the turns ratio on the transformer, swapping the fets and even parallel another few on top of it, which raises efficiency and current handling, then adapt a few capacitors and you'll be good to go!
I've actually done that in the past with a class AB car amplifier, and it became a lot more powerful and still works fine up to date!
Another option is to get a second hand amp with SMPS inside and chop the board in two. That I also did in the past and have built some fantastic and very powerful class T amps like that. One of them is still playing in my car...
I prefer SG3525 based converters as opposed to TL494, I'm not 100% sure about the differences any more, but if I remember correctly it can handle higher gate charge on the outputs and it has a fancier comparator inside to use for regulating the output voltage (and slightly adjust it at the turn of a little trimmer)...
I've also designed a converter board myself, but that one is not for sale as I just can't compete with the prices since the quantity of my orders is just too low. I already pay around 30 euro just for the boards.... But that one is 10x10cm and outputs 1Kw at 94% efficiency....not bad!
i found a nice cooler fan !!
I will put this one on my board.
It can cool the inductors easily too.
Here is the link that i bought it from :
http://stores.ebay.ie/coolerfanshop
By the way, i'm not related with this seller. I think it is a good solution against the crap quality "Sure" is using.
I will put this one on my board.
It can cool the inductors easily too.
Here is the link that i bought it from :
http://stores.ebay.ie/coolerfanshop
By the way, i'm not related with this seller. I think it is a good solution against the crap quality "Sure" is using.
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Even though the first version might have been performing acceptable I really feel sorry for all you guys that it took a 200 page thread to discover once again the Sure elecontronics products are not quite as good as one minimally would expect.
I apadoned the idea of ever buying something with the name Sure printed on it already after their first release of 4 channel boards that were noisy as crap. Been trying to help these forum members with troubleshooting this to no avail...
Such a MASSIVE waste of valuable time.
Okay, we are probably all on here because we love to experiment, but speaking just for myself I get immensely depressed from ending up in a totally unsatisfying end result.
I apadoned the idea of ever buying something with the name Sure printed on it already after their first release of 4 channel boards that were noisy as crap. Been trying to help these forum members with troubleshooting this to no avail...
Such a MASSIVE waste of valuable time.
Okay, we are probably all on here because we love to experiment, but speaking just for myself I get immensely depressed from ending up in a totally unsatisfying end result.
I can only "like" this post and I relate to that
I enjoyed immensely while it lasted but after two faulty boards I am quite depressed now.
From now on I shall read DIY forum threads after 200 post count
... But that one is 10x10cm and outputs 1Kw at 94% efficiency....not bad!
Sweet, I'll have a go with the isolated from ebay and if it's not satisfactory I'll get back to you.
Sorry to hear some folks have had problems. I have two Sure Tripath 2050 amps a 2 X100 watt and a 4 X 100 watt. Both are modded. The 2 X 100 watt is driving a pair of B+W 705's
and the 4 X 100 watt is bi-amping a pair of B+W 704's. Both amps are using passive cooling. Sound is great. Running both for over a year and no problems.
and the 4 X 100 watt is bi-amping a pair of B+W 704's. Both amps are using passive cooling. Sound is great. Running both for over a year and no problems.
Hi guys,
Off I went to modify a Sure 2*100W tripath board. I had one back then, and purchased two more recently. The design is slighty different, and the board is bigger.
Stock board:
I removed R23, R39, C19, C26, C18, C24, D4 and D6. Bridged all connections. The board was working fine before mods.
Pluged WIMAs MKP as input caps and there was no sound, just a pop, and the amp kept disarming. I removed the bridged connections, one by one, except for the diodes. Now the board stays turned on, but there's still no sound, be it with the WIMA inputs, without them, or using the RCA sockets.
Not very good at soldering, as you can see.
Switching to a stock board everything works, source, psu, speakers.
Thoughts on what could be happening?
Thanks in advance.
Off I went to modify a Sure 2*100W tripath board. I had one back then, and purchased two more recently. The design is slighty different, and the board is bigger.
Stock board:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I removed R23, R39, C19, C26, C18, C24, D4 and D6. Bridged all connections. The board was working fine before mods.
Pluged WIMAs MKP as input caps and there was no sound, just a pop, and the amp kept disarming. I removed the bridged connections, one by one, except for the diodes. Now the board stays turned on, but there's still no sound, be it with the WIMA inputs, without them, or using the RCA sockets.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Not very good at soldering, as you can see.
Switching to a stock board everything works, source, psu, speakers.
Thoughts on what could be happening?
Thanks in advance.
I see you followed the old board mods and your TC2000 is pretty sure dead by now, I can't tell you about the rest.
From what I remember of this new board input stage design after you remove the diodes you should not bridge its pads nor you should use the same old holes for the input caps and if you had everything from d6 to c26 bridged chances are you had many things shorted and atleast your tc2000 is fried.
Portuguese:
Cara essa placa tem o design diferente da antiga, tu não deve fazer modificações seguindo apenas imagens, teu tc2000 está provavelmente frito.
Depois que tu remove os diodos não se deve dar curto nos pads e o melhor é usar os terminais e não os RCA's. Se tu soldar os pads do c26 por exemplo o c24 já vai estar automaticamente em curto e botar um capacitor ali não é uma boa idéia. Qualquer coisa me manda um PM e evite conectar esta placa que tu modificou nos teus falantes pq o prejuízo pode ser muito maior.
[]'s
Yes, I followed the old board mods, as per Audio1st pictures. Too bad it wasn't right. Are there any guidelines for this new version?
I still have the removed diodes, might try putting them back into place. There were no signs of smoke or shorts, although it doesn't mean the tc2000 is ok. I do have a spare (from the older board), but I am pretty sure I do not have the skills to remove and solder it in this one.
Will try the diodes and see what happens. A DMM is on the way, so I might be able gather more information when it arrives, anytime soon from China.
Thanks for the help!
Obrigado pela ajuda!
I still have the removed diodes, might try putting them back into place. There were no signs of smoke or shorts, although it doesn't mean the tc2000 is ok. I do have a spare (from the older board), but I am pretty sure I do not have the skills to remove and solder it in this one.
Will try the diodes and see what happens. A DMM is on the way, so I might be able gather more information when it arrives, anytime soon from China.
Thanks for the help!
Obrigado pela ajuda!
The board shown in the recent posts on this thread appears to be the newer TDA7498 chipset based product. The Sure version in its earliest forms has had some serious stability and distortion issues. However, this board is now being sourced by Parts Express, which means that it is now probably debugged. As for the 'propeller', at least on the TK2050 you really have to abuse the board or push it very hard to get the fan to operate; when it does, you can barely hear it when the board is mounted in a closed plastic enclosure. The TDA 7498 has very different operating characteristics, including slightly better power output, particularly if driven with 36VDC. (You can get a Meanwell 35V power supply from various sources to drive this board, but not from Parts Express.). Sound quality is reported as excellent (not from the Sure product as yet, but from a better design from Hifimediy). I must admit this greatly tweaks my curiosity. For about $40 this might be worthy of experimentation, but this is not now a proven excellent product like the Sure TK2050 products, both of which I have, use, and love dearly.
By the way, a useful workaround for mobile applications is running the power supply using a 110VAC inverter. These used to be expensive, but now a 350W inverter of good quality is about $100. The usual SMPS will filter out inverter noise, at least in theory. I should try this out in my car but have too many projects going and not enough time.
By the way, a useful workaround for mobile applications is running the power supply using a 110VAC inverter. These used to be expensive, but now a 350W inverter of good quality is about $100. The usual SMPS will filter out inverter noise, at least in theory. I should try this out in my car but have too many projects going and not enough time.
ciao.
ho bisogno di una conferma:
la mia scheda è la versione "Model AA-AB32181 "
posso togliere i diodi in ingresso (d4 , d6)?
posso togliere R23 , R39 (il loro lavoro lo fa il potenziometro)?
al posto del parallelo di C18, C19 (C24, C26) metto condensatori da 2.2microfarad di buona qualita'?
grazie mille
ho bisogno di una conferma:
la mia scheda è la versione "Model AA-AB32181 "
posso togliere i diodi in ingresso (d4 , d6)?
posso togliere R23 , R39 (il loro lavoro lo fa il potenziometro)?
al posto del parallelo di C18, C19 (C24, C26) metto condensatori da 2.2microfarad di buona qualita'?
grazie mille
Google Translation:
Hello.
I need a confirmation:
my card is version "Model AA-AB32181"
I can remove the diode input (d4, d6)?
I remove R23, R39 (their work is done by the potentiometer)?
instead of the parallel of C18, C19 (C24, C26) put capacitors 2.2microfarad good quality '?
thank you very much
Ciao fracobast,
Questo è un forum di lingua inglese. Si prega di tradurre la lingua inglese quando si registra in un'altra lingua.
Grazie.
Hello.
I need a confirmation:
my card is version "Model AA-AB32181"
I can remove the diode input (d4, d6)?
I remove R23, R39 (their work is done by the potentiometer)?
instead of the parallel of C18, C19 (C24, C26) put capacitors 2.2microfarad good quality '?
thank you very much
Ciao fracobast,
Questo è un forum di lingua inglese. Si prega di tradurre la lingua inglese quando si registra in un'altra lingua.
Grazie.
I removed the 15uH toroids and other output filter bits from my not-working 41hz amp4 and transplanted them onto the Sure. One thing is clear. The stock 10uH bobbins are junk. They saturate badly in my opinion. With the toroids in place the bass is rock solid and much less flabby. The 41hz filter also tames the higher frequencies too, although I didn't mind it before.
It's not so curious if you know your HF....
EDIT: Ok, let's elaborate on that. Look at saturation limits in inductor datasheets and you will notice the saturation limits decrease when the frequency rises....rapidly...
It's not just flabby bass, it goes far beyond that. You will already notice it from the idle current that a board will draw. If the output filter chokes saturate it will drastically rise the idle current.
Then in the Sure designs there are tons of unwanted parasitics, not handled RF feedback paths, ringing etc. etc. They are not running hot for no reason.
Try running a formula one car engine on sunflower oil lubrication.... We have a saying over here where I work, "If you pay peanuts you get monkeys...."
EDIT: Ok, let's elaborate on that. Look at saturation limits in inductor datasheets and you will notice the saturation limits decrease when the frequency rises....rapidly...
It's not just flabby bass, it goes far beyond that. You will already notice it from the idle current that a board will draw. If the output filter chokes saturate it will drastically rise the idle current.
Then in the Sure designs there are tons of unwanted parasitics, not handled RF feedback paths, ringing etc. etc. They are not running hot for no reason.
Try running a formula one car engine on sunflower oil lubrication.... We have a saying over here where I work, "If you pay peanuts you get monkeys...."
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hi guys,
after all readings i'm confused about the psu voltage?! according to Sure 24-30v max 32v. and many other comments here and there. which voltage gives the best sq? not loudness or watt!
i'm trying to build my psu finally. is 26mb60a bridge rectifier a good solution? or any better?
after all readings i'm confused about the psu voltage?! according to Sure 24-30v max 32v. and many other comments here and there. which voltage gives the best sq? not loudness or watt!
i'm trying to build my psu finally. is 26mb60a bridge rectifier a good solution? or any better?
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