Super Audiophile Phono-Stage - Battery Powered

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tubenut said:
Glide, looking at the pics it seems you connected DC in the pads left by the diodes?

That means you are feeding 15V regulators 12V, this would not work properly and they would certainly be starved. It probably works though because for some bizarre reason project bypassed the regulator inputs to outputs with some resistors of a few hundred ohms though I know not why...

You may wish to remove the badly behaving starving regulators all together, or replace them with types that are at least 3V below your battery voltage, or up the battery voltage to at least 3V above the 15V regulators.

Or at least, remove the resistors and feed directly to the OP amp PSU pins through the pads left by the resistors. Leaving the regs out of circuit. This would loose the miserable small smoothing caps though.

Those teeny regulators starve the poor stage anyway, I replaced them with a little dexterity with TO220 versions and got rid of all the ceramics in the RIAA.

Rolling op amps can be fun and fustrating, like some cables and tubes.


Croak... yes, the DC is connected to the diodes pads - this is very interesting, I now only realise it just after you mentioned it... mmm. Have to see about bypassing the regulator(tjies) or replacing them.

I will see about the ceramic caps. What value? :confused:
I dont find the mystery codes on caps very funny! :mad:

D
 
tubenut said:


Round here I am tubenut, though, at this time all my tubes are in cupboards and I use mostly chemical processes to amplify rather then swarms of warm electrons in a vacuum. This may change...


regulator(tjies) ------> spanning afvlakker(tjies) IIRC...

Ik denk niet de karakters hier de woord spanning afvlakker zullen begrijpen.

No tube in your system? :hot:

What do you use BTW at the moment?

D
 
GlidingDutchman said:


Ik denk niet de karakters hier de woord spanning afvlakker zullen begrijpen.
D

Calling a person a character, in English, Dutch or Afrikaans is not very compimentary or polite....

Nuff Lingo, back to phonohoax/battery power...

though I have little more to say on the subject at this time.

This thread hasd more info http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21833&highlight=
I see you found it already.
 
IMO the box and I think SE gets rid of the ceramics.








(Afvlakker is correct word in Afrikaans for sure, there may be that and spanningsregelaar in Dutch.
Afrikaans electronic lingo is a mix of Dutch and bastardised english words. The word for capacitor in Afrikaans and dutch is not the same for eg, the dutch word voeding is a kragbron in Afrikaans etc etc etc..)
 
The signal path oppies are dual devices so you would need op275. It will work, it will be different, will it be better, probably? hmmmm expensive gamble.

Op amps can be very subjective, and which to use where is science and to some extent hard trial and error listening etc. Many would consider this knowledge/experience part of their marketable skill.


Nite nite.
 
tubenut said:
Compares well to tenfold the price? What have you tried? For one the Clearaudio Smartphono craps all over it for say 3* the price. At ten times the price it is another ballgame all together and it is left far behind.

I spent about $50 more for a Pass Pearl. More thump, more goosebumps. I think that the the VSPS is an excellent "budget" option. A good friend of mine just built the cheap battery version of the Hagerman and it's not too bad either. His total cost: $65
 
tubenut said:

That means you are feeding 15V regulators 12V, this would not work properly and they would certainly be starved. It probably works though because for some bizarre reason project bypassed the regulator inputs to outputs with some resistors of a few hundred ohms though I know not why...

G jou doring!

I now am starting to think this is the reason my DIY phono amp doesnt want to work... It uses the same tiny regulators!! I fed it the same dual rail 12v instead of 24v... :dead:

Today no regulator will stand! :smash:

D
 
jacco vermeulen said:


Gliding-Cheese,

You'll pay less if you punch in AD797 on the RS link.
Life will be simpler if could decide whether you will use the phono-pre for MC or MM, if you are serious of rebuilding the phony-box.

Jacco... okay where do I begin?

Mainly MC as I have 4 different MC cartridges at my disposal and only 1 MM...

At the moment I feel like trashing the whole Phon'y'-box cause it is driving me mad. Today, whilst changing ceramic caps I have busted & lifted two PCB track!! Makes me sizzle with anger! :mad:

I think I should rather just get a decent new phono stage or at least a pre-owned one.

D
 
tubenut said:




Should maybe have read: Now I have killed the thing - my non teperature contriolled solder station it is a piece of crap!!

The pads lift easy, I normally destroy the old component when modding, Ie have only one leg to deal with at a time.


You said it! :bawling:

I have a run-off-the-mill Weller soldering iron - temprature controller? Whats that?

Will have to invest in one...

D
 
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