I don't know if you can achieve a similar function with a resistor because the driver normally is receiving power rather than generating it. My guess is to pick a resistance value similar to the amplifier impedance value? Having a disconnected driver presents an acoustical energy loss to the system. I think it is best to use a switch and turn the driver function OFF to remove it.
It seems that this may be a convenient way to measure the electrical impedance of the system as the voltage peaks coincide with impedance peaks.
It seems that this may be a convenient way to measure the electrical impedance of the system as the voltage peaks coincide with impedance peaks.
Nother one, models ok. Cheap too.
4" Paper Cone Sealed Back Midrange Speaker A0100008FP09IA | 289-135
4" Paper Cone Sealed Back Midrange Speaker A0100008FP09IA | 289-135
read this thread in two days...my head hurts. I was originally set to buy a used pair of SH-50 and an SH69, seller backed out last minute. So then I started thinking new$$$$, then the thought turned to;"I don't need the output the the Danley's are designed for, with that much headroom to spare why not build a more refined "hi-fi" version using "better" drivers. Then I was pointed to this thread...
as stated, my head hurts...
Be Well
as stated, my head hurts...
Be Well
It's easier than it looks:
1) Buy a nice square waveguide. The QSC at PE is a good bet. ($35)
2) Buy four sealed back midranges. The Pyles at PE are a good bet. ($60 for four.)
3) Get a miniDSP ($90)
4) Get a BMS 4540 ($150)
That's $335 per side, and it will cover 350hz - 20000hz. You can dial in the crossover with the miniDSP in an afternoon.
I've been a passive crossover guy for decades, but there's no way I'd do a Synergy or Unity without a miniDSP. It solves so many problems for so little money.
protip : dig up my pics of the Lambda Unity horn throat, and put the midrange taps in the same spot. About 3" from the throat iirc. Even if you're off by an inch you can fix that with the miniDSP by using a little bit of delay to smooth out the transition from tweeter to midrange.
Seriously, you can build a Synergy horn in a weekend if you use miniDSP.
One neat thing about Synergy and Unity horns is that nearly all of the variables fall into place if you can get the midrange to play high enough, and the tweeter to play low enough.
JLH demonstrated this with some Paralines; he has a video where the speaker is playing full-range with no crossover at all.
That's one of the reasons that miniDSP is so great for this app. Basically constant directivity horns require EQ. But EQ'ing a compression driver is tough, because the impedance curve is completely nuts, with two peaks, a dip, and a rise in impedance at high frequency. Compression drivers are a nightmare to EQ passively.
But miniDSP solves all of that, and as a bonus, you also get delay which comes in really handy if you didn't put the taps in the perfect spot. And you don't need a lot; even a millisecond of delay is equivalent to moving the driver 34 centimeters.
So the ability to electronically 'move' the midranges by two or three inches forward or backward is great.
Before you seal 'em up, try 'em open back, you might prefer it.
I'm going OB on my Synergy horns.
They'll work CB too, but then you have to make enclosures.
I happen to have two of the small 2" TB 'wideband tweeters'
could they be used as tweeters instead of a compression driver ?
If you take the door off a Frigidaire refrigerator, it becomes a (poor performing) room heater. The colder you set the thermostat, the warmer the room becomes, though directly in front will be cool.
You could continue calling it a Frigidaire, about as accurate a description for it as calling OB mid drivers mounted on a HF horn a Synergy.
If nothing else, you show signs of creativity, why not come up with a name that reflects what your OB mid drivers mounted on a HF horn are?
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Kees,
LF response depends on the horn angle and depth, narrow deep conical horns go lower than wide angle shallow horns of the same mouth size.
Many of the DSL Synergy horns use bass reflex ports to fill in the response below where the horn cuts off, the little SM 60F -3dB point is about 90 Hz, so many TH could be used below it.
Attachments
Thanks for the information.
my tapped horn is usable to 70 hz, but also this can be reached with this idea?
I now low freqenties below 100 hz things get very fast very big. This moment i use open baffles with a T-TQWT, it do very satisfactory, but as hobbyist you now I like to experiment, but I am more a amp designer, speakers are a little new for me but with hornresp and more of such programs it is great help...
regards
my tapped horn is usable to 70 hz, but also this can be reached with this idea?
I now low freqenties below 100 hz things get very fast very big. This moment i use open baffles with a T-TQWT, it do very satisfactory, but as hobbyist you now I like to experiment, but I am more a amp designer, speakers are a little new for me but with hornresp and more of such programs it is great help...
regards
The impedance minima for the SM 60 F appears to be around 70 Hz, so with some boost the response could be flattened to that point as excursion would be low around Fb.