Subwoofers

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the jl w3,s wont be a big upgrade , i think there are subs out there that will offer similar or better results with less cost- parts express is selling the dayton rs alum. cone subs 12-14 mm x-max,for around 100.00 ea if sound q is more imp. to you than sheer spl,remember no matter what sub you purchase or what the cost, the enclosure will have to be built with the parameters of the sub in mind for predictable results,purchase an new driver and throw it in your --award winning enclosure--- and wonder and it sounds like as_ , thats why,
 
Ok i have a few more questions.

first question is. Regarding the Xmax specs on subs, what does this really mean, I know that it means it's how far the sub will move. But what does it really mean, does it mean the sub will hit harder or play louder? I'm not exactly sure on this as my JBL Power P1200's only have an Xmax of 8mm. not at all good compared to the subs i have been looking into.

www.bladeice.com has Resonant Engineering for sale "this is the only site i have been able to find selling them if you know any others please let me know" and I'm wondering if the RE V2 series are any good? and if my 250w rms per sub would be to much for them to handle"they're listed at 175w rms"?

Are the Image Dynamics ID series any good? They do have 250w rms so they would match my amp. I'm just wondering how they would sound.

Also i can't seem to find any sites selling treo, Digital Design, and adire if anyone knows of any can you please let me know.

One more question. Are these companies subwoofers any good? autotek, ads, and arc.
 
richie00boy said:
Xmax is how far the cone will move, so it tells you how loud you can get it and to an extent also how deep. Beware though that the linearity of Xmax quoted can vary a lot from one manufacturer to another, to inflate their figure.

There are a few different ways to measure Xmax, and most of them will be within 1-3mm of each other. The only time you really run across inflated numbers are if the company is just flat out lying or they're telling you the 2-way number instead of the 1-way number. For the most part you can believe what that spec says though, the problem is finding it in the first place with the crappy companies.

Anyway, for a given setup, the amount of output you have is proportional to the amount of displacement you have (cone area * excursion). The "Sd" parameter tells you the effective cone area of the speaker, and the "Xmax" parameter tells you the linear excursion of the speaker, multiply the two and you get the linear displacement of the speaker. More displacement means more output (for a given alignment), which is why if you move to a bigger sub or multiple subs (more cone area) you get more output, or if you turn up the volume (more excursion, until you start bottoming out the sub) you get more output.

www.reaudio.com for RE
www.adireaudio.com for specs on adire
www.acoustic-visions.com to buy adire

Adire is out for a while as they finish their move to the new buildhouse, which is why I didn't throw their name out earlier. Their subs are also more SQ-oriented, as are the image dynamics and JL subs, there are better choices for the money if you just care about output.
 
Dominick22 said:
What sr20dem0n said about box configurations is generally true, however, the box I gave you a link for has a flat frequency response from 30 - 80 hz or something like that. I cant quite remember, but thats why it was an award winning enclosure. I have been heavy into car audio for many years, and trust me, this is the best box out there BAR NONE!

Wow, audiobahn not that good? What are smoking?lol
Why do you feel that it is not any good? specifics! I will admit that last years models are better than this years, but I have specific reasons, not just a fabricated thought! So please, I am interested in your insight sr20dem0n.

Dominick in New Jersey


I find it hard to believe that any "normal" ported box will have anywhere close to a flat response from 30-80 once you stick it in a car, anechoic response doesn't mean much when you're dealing with car audio...actually a flat anechoic response is not really a good thing, you'll end up with a very dominating low end and not much up top. Cabin gain wreaks havok on the response of ported boxes, of course that's kind of the point, to get that extra ~6-10dB right around the tuning frequency.

Why is Audiobahn not good? Low power handling + inflated numbers = fried coils, I see it almost every day on other car audio forums, people blow their audiobahns with rated power or less all the time because the speakers can't take anywhere near the amount of power that's slapped all over them. They have very little linear excursion which leads to very little linear output (compared to other subs in the same price range), and most of them have a very high Fs, which causes a weak low end and a peaky response in most enclosures. On top of all that, they're pretty expensive and look terrible IMO.
 
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