Subwoofer Humming problem

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In ckt testing you should be measuring the DC power rail with an AC setting on the meter. On a full wave bridge rectifier two opposing connections of the four are AC (in) (anode to cathode connections), the other two (cathode to cathode and anode to anode) are pulsed DC out, modulated by the AC frequency.

Incidentally, I'm confused as to how and why to test the rectifier DC rail as AC instead of DC? When I do that I get only about 40mV. When I test as DC I get about 15.8V. I also did check the frequency of the DC current and it's pulsed at 120Hz.
 
Incidentally, I'm confused as to how and why to test the rectifier DC rail as AC instead of DC? When I do that I get only about 40mV. When I test as DC I get about 15.8V. I also did check the frequency of the DC current and it's pulsed at 120Hz.
What you are hearing is hum, that only comes from the AC line.

If Edison had his way we wouldn't have hum :D
 
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Ah, well, I've just checked the frequency going to the subwoofer, and it's exactly 120Hz. Seems like it's leaking current directly to the subwoofer somewhere, but only when it's attached to an AC power source...

A full wave rectifier (fwb) produces voltage every 180° or for every positive and negative voltage swing, whereas a half wave rectifier only coverts half or once every 360° or only on the positive or negative swing e.g. 120Hz or 60Hz modulated AC riding on this pulsed DC. Without the Ground reference this is nothing more than AC.
Fwb's are normally used when hum minimized and clean power are required. Half wave is used in cases where they don't matter, like in lighting. Because the fwb converts each cycle twice the time on charge constant helps reduce the deep well that occurs with a half wave using the same value of capacitance.

Basic electronics 101
 
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A full wave rectifier (fwb) produces voltage every 180° or for every positive and negative voltage swing, whereas a half wave rectifier only coverts half or once every 360° or only on the positive or negative swing e.g. 120Hz or 60Hz modulated AC riding on this pulsed DC. Without the Ground reference this is nothing more than AC.
Fwb's are normally used when hum minimized and clean power are required. Half wave is used in cases where they don't matter, like in lighting. Because the fwb converts each cycle twice the time on charge constant helps reduce the deep well that occurs with a half wave using the same value of capacitance.

Basic electronics 101

Thanks, I know how the rectifier works, and was merely pointing out that the hum was not due to some other component in the mix creating an oscillation since it was at exactly 120hz. :)

I've got the 22,000uf cap on order, and will see if that solves the issue.
 
First, I would like to give a big hand of appreciation to Steve and John V. Can you believe its been 3 years since this thread was last visited and responded to? It’s a testament to the value of the iNet and to the diyAudio community!

My Boston Acoustics Digital Media Theater Speaker System was part of a Gateway desktop I purchased way back in 1998. The Gateway has long since been replaced, several times over, but I refused to give up my B/As. But, then about 2 years ago, my little gems became afflicted with the dreaded “hum” and I was forced to unplug them.

I second the thanks -- now it is near the end of 2014 and this thread is still very useful for us still using these great Boston Acoustics Digital BA735s. They must have sold millions of these great sounding speakers. Mine are now plugged into the fourth PC since that old Gateway went to PC heaven many years ago.

Cheers,
- - Mike
 
Hi, its 2015 and hopefully this thread will still be useful to me.

I was helping my uncle with some computer problems and one of the problems was the dreaded hum from BA735s. I recognized the quality of the speakers and thought I could try to salvage them.

Well my search for help lead me to this thread. I'm really hoping the 12VC power supply I ordered from this link: 12 Volt DC - 3.5 Amp Power Supply will solve my problems.

However, I noticed the voltage on the original power supply is listed at 12V A/C 1500mA and the power supply from the link above is rated at 3.5.

Is this going to cause a problem? I really don't want to blow these speakers out.
 
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If it is regulated it should not be an issue. The text on the site doesn't say though. Just measure the voltage when it is not plugged into the amp. If it measures 12V you should be fine.

If it is unregulated then it will probably provide higher than 12V at anything less than the rated 3.5 Amps.

Tony.
 
If it is regulated it should not be an issue. The text on the site doesn't say though. Just measure the voltage when it is not plugged into the amp. If it measures 12V you should be fine.

If it is unregulated then it will probably provide higher than 12V at anything less than the rated 3.5 Amps.

Tony.

Thanks. The website also explains it fairly well too.

The only information you need to have in order to find the correct power supply for your device is the Voltage / Volts (V) and Amperage / Amps (A).

Voltage has to be an exact match. A 12V DC device needs a 12V DC adapter.

Amperage is the amount of power your device uses. The adapter you order has to be able to supply AT LEAST the amount of Amps your device draws. If your device states it is 12V 3A, a 3A adapter can handle that load, but so can a 4A and 5A. The higher amperage (amp) power supply will not have to work as hard to handle a smaller load, and will run cooler and more stable.

If the Amperage of your device is uneven, such as 3.13A or 4.16A, always round up. 3.13A rounds up to a 3.5A adapter, a 4.16A device will round up to a 4.5A or a 5A.
 
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