My system is similar (FE103E in BR tuned to ~80Hz). My only recommendation is to make sure that the plate amp has an adjustable low-pass filter, so you can blend the sub in (by adjusting its uppermost frequency).
For example, in my case, I have a floor-to-ceiling resonance (room mode) at about 70Hz. So the FE103's play down to 80Hz, then the sub is limited at ~60Hz, to avoid aggravating the 70Hz "boom".
For example, in my case, I have a floor-to-ceiling resonance (room mode) at about 70Hz. So the FE103's play down to 80Hz, then the sub is limited at ~60Hz, to avoid aggravating the 70Hz "boom".
My system is similar (FE103E in BR tuned to ~80Hz). My only recommendation is to make sure that the plate amp has an adjustable low-pass filter, so you can blend the sub in (by adjusting its uppermost frequency).
Thank you Rybond3rd,
What sub do you use?
northernsky
You might want to check out what James Shearer did for a sub for use with his Met's. It is the "Triska" design. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/124420-another-triska-sub.html
Parts Express DIY Project
Parts Express DIY Project
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Uh! I did something like the Triska sub, having two Peerless woofers (subs )
one of them had the voice coil former detached from the cone ( abuse !)
so I detached also the magnet and transformed it into a passive.
I added some weight too.
The wood, i got it from a couch on the street.
The two radiators are placed on the near walls of the box, but the passive ( or the active ) might be placed on the opposite face.
I don't understand why the electonics have to fit inside the box !?!
Mine is powered by a BTL 2 W amplifier so...4 W or something. The electronic filter ( based on a TL 074 ) as the amplifier belongs from a Philips 2.1 system.
It now plays ( I didn't tell them the trick ! ) with a pair of Whaferdale Diamond 9.1 powered by 20 + 20 W .
one of them had the voice coil former detached from the cone ( abuse !)
so I detached also the magnet and transformed it into a passive.
I added some weight too.
The wood, i got it from a couch on the street.
The two radiators are placed on the near walls of the box, but the passive ( or the active ) might be placed on the opposite face.
I don't understand why the electonics have to fit inside the box !?!
Mine is powered by a BTL 2 W amplifier so...4 W or something. The electronic filter ( based on a TL 074 ) as the amplifier belongs from a Philips 2.1 system.
It now plays ( I didn't tell them the trick ! ) with a pair of Whaferdale Diamond 9.1 powered by 20 + 20 W .
What sub do you use?
I use a very cheap Hsu 10" sub. It has the low-pass -- I had intended to get the model which -also- has a high-pass. But I guess I didn't read the fine print.
So now, I go direct to a Bottlehead amp (no high pass), and then I use the low-pass to blend in the sub. But it's convenient if you get a plate amp which -also- has the high pass (as an option, at least for experimenting).
My system is running a Dayton 12" ($120) from Parts express. Not sure if it can hook to a computer or not though...never tried. It's a great sub if you want to bring the ceiling down. It's paired with a set of Homebrew OB's with Fostex 103En's a pair of full range 5"ers I got out of my old Magnavox 50" bigscreen and a pair of Eminence Alpha 15's for the thump. Just got the crossover figured out today.
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Thank you for all the suggestions. The Triska sub is the kind of project I was looking for; I am not a big expert: I can just copy.
Concerning the plat amp I have to look for something different; here in Europe it should be easier to find a Monacor plate (more expensive anyway).
Northernsky
Concerning the plat amp I have to look for something different; here in Europe it should be easier to find a Monacor plate (more expensive anyway).
Northernsky
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