mcm has 10"sub for $70 you can always build a new box
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/MCM-CUSTOM-AUDIO-50-7660-/50-7660
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/MCM-CUSTOM-AUDIO-50-7660-/50-7660
OK, so, I'm going to use the Dayton SD215-88 8".
Can someone help me with the numbers for a ported cab, mostly for music and some film watching, to integrate with mFonkens. I'd like to keep it around a 30cm (12") cube, and I'm more interested in punchy bass than booming.
Can someone help me with the numbers for a ported cab, mostly for music and some film watching, to integrate with mFonkens. I'd like to keep it around a 30cm (12") cube, and I'm more interested in punchy bass than booming.
it is so sad that we are not living in the world of global economy!!!!!
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro
Houston, we have a GIGO problem.
Vas for the SD215-88 is 42.7 liters. So the 90 liter sealed butterworth volume proffered above is not correct. It should be about 1/3 of that in reality. And if you are OK with a little bump in response (q > .7) then you can go smaller still.
But neither this Dayton driver nor the other one mentioned can really get low enough sealed to be considered in subwoofer territority. And if vented then the box would be large, so you might as well start looking at 10" or 12" drivers in that case.
That is why I used the Tang Band W8-1363. It costs quite a bit more but can be tuned low in a small box and has a good Xmax for its size as well.
Vas for the SD215-88 is 42.7 liters. So the 90 liter sealed butterworth volume proffered above is not correct. It should be about 1/3 of that in reality. And if you are OK with a little bump in response (q > .7) then you can go smaller still.
But neither this Dayton driver nor the other one mentioned can really get low enough sealed to be considered in subwoofer territority. And if vented then the box would be large, so you might as well start looking at 10" or 12" drivers in that case.
That is why I used the Tang Band W8-1363. It costs quite a bit more but can be tuned low in a small box and has a good Xmax for its size as well.
After reading the entire Low end support for single driver monitors thread, I realise I don't really need a subwoofer, more a woofer. Do you think it's possible to build a plate-amp powered mid/low bass box to cover 150Hz or so down? At this frequency position becomes an issue, but I would probably just put it in the centre anyway. I feel like the beautiful stereo imaging of the mFonkens can compensate for a mono woofer. My wallet agrees.
Do you think this can integrate ok, or will it be a disaster and am I skimping too much?
Do you think this can integrate ok, or will it be a disaster and am I skimping too much?
A 35L vented box tuned to 30Hz will give you the punch. System Q is a bit high though. I would much prefer below 0.8. This is based on Dayton T/S. In reality, most T/S that I measured differ from the manufacturers. Some are even terrribly off. You won't know until you have a unit in hand that you can measure with.
You should not get any localisation issues with the woofer in the center. In my setup, all my woofer test boxes are to one side because of space constrains. As long as I'm seated in the middle 8-10ft away from the main speakers, the bass is omni-directional, even up to 150Hz.
Personally, I use 10" and 12". I cross with active crossover at 24dB/oct generally between 70-90Hz. I find the bass bleeds into the mids at 150Hz.
Mike
You should not get any localisation issues with the woofer in the center. In my setup, all my woofer test boxes are to one side because of space constrains. As long as I'm seated in the middle 8-10ft away from the main speakers, the bass is omni-directional, even up to 150Hz.
Personally, I use 10" and 12". I cross with active crossover at 24dB/oct generally between 70-90Hz. I find the bass bleeds into the mids at 150Hz.
Mike
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Cheers Michael. I've been trying to use online java based calculators, but they all give me a tiny cabinet volume with a ridiculously long port.
From this simulation, I should build a 35 litre box with two (?) 1.5" ports 7.65" long to achieve a decent low end response and curve from the Dayton driver...
Do you think I can blend the sub with mfonkens using the variable XO in the plate amp? I'm going to try this way anyway, and maybe build a XO if I feel it would improve things.
What are the advantages or using a 10" diver over an 8"? Would it increase cabinet volume greatly?
This is excellent help, thanks gents.
From this simulation, I should build a 35 litre box with two (?) 1.5" ports 7.65" long to achieve a decent low end response and curve from the Dayton driver...
Do you think I can blend the sub with mfonkens using the variable XO in the plate amp? I'm going to try this way anyway, and maybe build a XO if I feel it would improve things.
What are the advantages or using a 10" diver over an 8"? Would it increase cabinet volume greatly?
This is excellent help, thanks gents.
Glad to join the club. Not used to seeing a Vd.
Hi st_eloi
According to the simulation, it looks pretty good. F3 at 37Hz is low enough for me. The problem is how accurate are the manufacturers published T/S. Too bad I don't have this woofer, otherwise I can provide you with the exact T/S. I measure all my woofers T/S with LMS. Once I have the parameters in hand, I then decide how best to load them. Some of the published T/S are terribly off. This is not to imply that the Dayton T/S is inaccurate. Just can't verify.
Should not be a problem. Most plate amps have variable crossovers. Comes in very handy. You can tweak the crossover till you are happy with the result.
Its actually not so much whether 8" or 10". Its what the T/S are. Once that is known, you can simulate very accurately nowadays how to load the woofer. I have some 10" woofers loaded in vented boxes of 25L only that give similar response to the Dayton SD215. Only problem is they are no longer manufactured. All depends on the T/S.
Below is a picture of some of my test boxes. The woofer boxes, left to right, are 25L (10" ported); 60L (10" ported); 150L (12" sealed); 100L(10"x2 sealed). All with different woofers. All sound different. The one on the extreme right has two 10" VIFA Premium Line Subwoofers. Good for Double Bass but lacking in attack on the upper bass.
Next to it is a 12" Pioneer Car Subwoofer that I got off eBay for $10 (Brand new). Loaded in a 150L sealed box, it goes down to 33Hz (-3dB). Reasonably flat. Good for movies but not enough punch for music. The list goes on.
I also have an active subwoofer, a Polk Audio PSW10. Its very compact, about 1 cu ft. Has a 10" woofer and a plate amp. Comes with volume control and adjustable crossover. Not too bad. If you can get a new one at a good price, worth considering. I think I got mine off eBay for $100-$150 (Brand New).
Have fun.
Mike
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Well, in view of high shipping prices and a bunch of other things, I have decided to buy a kit from a German diy supplier. They appear to to be experts, so I am going to get a kit with plate amp, driver and plans. All for between €150 and €200. The nice thing about these kits is I can make all sorts of different boxes to find a sound I like, with the knowledge I will always have a fall back that sounds great. Now which one to go for...
The Micro Cube (unfortunately not in English)
The Sub 10
The Macro Cube
The Macro Cube uses a 12" Mivoc driver which is making me lean that way.
Both the Macro and Mini are sealed, which I presume would be better for mostly music listening...
Any views on these contenders and how they may blend with mFonkens?
The Micro Cube (unfortunately not in English)
The Sub 10
The Macro Cube
The Macro Cube uses a 12" Mivoc driver which is making me lean that way.
Both the Macro and Mini are sealed, which I presume would be better for mostly music listening...
Any views on these contenders and how they may blend with mFonkens?
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