yup i had a few of the old pyle's as well. very good for the price! and yes i have had a few IB setups as well. it is nice to keep your trunk space and have deep bass at the same time. i'm thinkinf of going IB in my bmw 3 series soon with a single 12" older model pioneer impp free-air specific sub that i got a deal on off ebay. i have used them in the past and they are very good for the money. for me i don't go for "JL this JL that" as long as you have a proper setup and quality equipment you don't have to spend your retirement funds on a sound system. maybe i'm getting old too but i still like a nice system and i think i always will!
I'll use anything that works! Pyramid still makes the Original line, the blue ones are the paper with a coating. I think they are the same as ones I used long ago not sure, but are very reasonable and shipping is cheap if you buy a few. Check out a place called teptronics.com. I also was eying the MJ18 from Mach5, one might do it all by itself IB. It is hard to find IB subs. Running 4 Infinity 12s IB now and they work good but take some power to push. With over 400wrms they don't move much but the car does shake. They could take more I am sure, problem is they weigh a ton. Could hardly lift the loaded baffle plus 5ch amp into the trunk and mount it. It actually slows my little car down, so there has to be a better way.
Sdat subs
got board other night and took my sealed box that is 1.86 cu ft and stuck in 2 10" Sdat subs that I bought about 5 years ago from overstock.com and hooked them up to my profile 400 watt amp and was very suprised! they hit pretty good. got the subs for around 40 bucks for both. mite try 2 12"s.
got board other night and took my sealed box that is 1.86 cu ft and stuck in 2 10" Sdat subs that I bought about 5 years ago from overstock.com and hooked them up to my profile 400 watt amp and was very suprised! they hit pretty good. got the subs for around 40 bucks for both. mite try 2 12"s.
So true. I've been trying to explain to so many people that there is a difference between power handling & efficiency. Everyone sees 1000 watts on a sub and assumes that it will play better than a 300 watt sub. However, if that 1000 watt sub has a heavy cone & voice coil with a stiff suspension, then it will barely play without full power. That's what shocks me when I hook up a 300 watt amp these days & it barely gets one of the "high end" subs moving. Then I swap over to an older sub & it shakes everything.
Now so that I don't get too far off subject, cone materials. I've read so many reviews & experienced so many subs in my life. I've found that every material will work just fine if the sub is designed well. I've also learned that if poorly implimented, cone breakup is audible, even in an enclosure. I've played with metal coned subs that were completely resonance free. For that matter, I've had metal coned mids that wounded pretty good. I've also used paper coned subs that sound like absolute crap. The cone was far from stiff enough & made it's own version of bass. Really, I wouldn't let cone material make my decision. I'd let a good listening session be the deciding factor. I will say that there's a good reason that most of the higher end companies are using some form of poly. I think it's the perfect compromise.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.