Side by side with a car, there isn't much competition but thankfully there aren't many competition class cars blaring about in London. Most are just teenagers with a couple of Sony Xplods in a prefab.
The system was designed to be modular for storage and transport purposes, it also serves as a nice place for the sub amp to sit. London can be quite highly strung, a lot of it is down to your attitude though, if you ignore everyone and play music that people don't want to hear or go loud enough to distort/be painful then people don't like you. Bottom line is, respect and you're fine
The system was designed to be modular for storage and transport purposes, it also serves as a nice place for the sub amp to sit. London can be quite highly strung, a lot of it is down to your attitude though, if you ignore everyone and play music that people don't want to hear or go loud enough to distort/be painful then people don't like you. Bottom line is, respect and you're fine
oh, there's nothing more annoying than people who push their systems into distortion. that's why i'm so power starved with my rig, i don't push it. as soon as i lose SQ, i'm not liking it.
my next step though will be upgrading to a panasonic CD player with class D circuitry & bass boost and 94dB efficient pyle outdoor speakers with 6 1/2" woofers vs. my current 86dB X 5 1/4" missions. i'm hoping that i don't lose alot of SQ with the plastic enclosures but i should gain alot more bass & volume with the increased efficiency & cone area.
my next step though will be upgrading to a panasonic CD player with class D circuitry & bass boost and 94dB efficient pyle outdoor speakers with 6 1/2" woofers vs. my current 86dB X 5 1/4" missions. i'm hoping that i don't lose alot of SQ with the plastic enclosures but i should gain alot more bass & volume with the increased efficiency & cone area.
well i'd have to see how it sounds before i decide how much, if any, bass boost to use. you've got to remember, unlike you, i'll only have a pair of 6 1/2" woofers that roll off at 58Hz and not 4 X 12" & +++++++++ watts to drive them. any extra CLEAN bass i can get is welcomed, but now i'm rethinking the system a bit and might build some cabinets instead. for just a little bit more money than i'd spend on the pyle's (which would still need mounts fabricated anyways) i could just plan a bigger build and DIY two ways for it. i'm thinking a pair of 6 1/2"ers and titanium daton (?) tweeters. (originally MGs i think). then i'd be using higher quality drivers than the pyles with their foam surrounds & plastic tweeters. i'd also get a much cleaner looking installation too.
before anything, i need to save up for it. i'm still catching up on my security deposit & back utilities for now. the weather is too shabby to get serious now anyways. i'll get it sorted by summer.
if only i could figure out a way to make my lowrider comfortable to ride without sacrificing looks, i'd just concentrate on a nice trailer system with lighting.
i've tried to come up with a combination speaker box/custom seat pedistal design for the lowrider that looks good to no avail. the only way i can imagine it is with nice curvy custom fiberglass work but i don't have a couple thousand lying around for that nor have the patience to spend several months fighting materials to DIY it myself. no matter what i do outside of simply upgrading my current rig, looks are a top priority & sloppy, lumpy fiberglass just isn't an option any more than putting endless hours messing my livingroom up sanding and filling for months is.
is almost a given that anything i do regardless will be wood based.
before anything, i need to save up for it. i'm still catching up on my security deposit & back utilities for now. the weather is too shabby to get serious now anyways. i'll get it sorted by summer.
if only i could figure out a way to make my lowrider comfortable to ride without sacrificing looks, i'd just concentrate on a nice trailer system with lighting.
i've tried to come up with a combination speaker box/custom seat pedistal design for the lowrider that looks good to no avail. the only way i can imagine it is with nice curvy custom fiberglass work but i don't have a couple thousand lying around for that nor have the patience to spend several months fighting materials to DIY it myself. no matter what i do outside of simply upgrading my current rig, looks are a top priority & sloppy, lumpy fiberglass just isn't an option any more than putting endless hours messing my livingroom up sanding and filling for months is.
is almost a given that anything i do regardless will be wood based.
learning fiberglass fabrication isn't an issue at all. i have artistic tendencies, so i'm sure i could do it but it's still messy, toxic, time consuming and if you've never worked with any kind of fiberglass, including insulation, it's EXTREMELY uncomfortable to work with. it makes one itch like crazy.
then there's the time factor. it's EASY to make simple, lumpy, shapes but like the auto customizer who lived next door to me said when i marveled at just how mirror smooth his custom car fenders were, the most important ingredient in customizing is ELBOW GREASE. dude spent HUNDREDS of hours to get those fenders and being the critical eyed "artist" that i am, i could settle for nothing less than perfection and just don't want to put hundreds of smelly, itchy hours in to do it. i'd rather be making music, riding, playing poker or getting laid than that. LOL
it's 100X easier to just design a wooden trailer. wood is so much easier to work with as long as you aren't doing curves.
i'f i win the lottery though, i'd not only do custom fiberglass & lighting tricks no-one has thought of yet (already have all in my head) i'd design sick custom framing and one off billet wheels etc.
until street partying gets me laid or a crowd, it isn't that interesting to me. it's just a hobby
then there's the time factor. it's EASY to make simple, lumpy, shapes but like the auto customizer who lived next door to me said when i marveled at just how mirror smooth his custom car fenders were, the most important ingredient in customizing is ELBOW GREASE. dude spent HUNDREDS of hours to get those fenders and being the critical eyed "artist" that i am, i could settle for nothing less than perfection and just don't want to put hundreds of smelly, itchy hours in to do it. i'd rather be making music, riding, playing poker or getting laid than that. LOL
it's 100X easier to just design a wooden trailer. wood is so much easier to work with as long as you aren't doing curves.
i'f i win the lottery though, i'd not only do custom fiberglass & lighting tricks no-one has thought of yet (already have all in my head) i'd design sick custom framing and one off billet wheels etc.
until street partying gets me laid or a crowd, it isn't that interesting to me. it's just a hobby
hey, just posting an update. i'm in the process of building a trailer system. at first i'll just use the same portable CD player on bungee cords tech for a sound source, but down the road i want to get a car deck with a remote and hopefully a working changer on bungee cords.
i've already bought my amplifiers. i'll be mounting one in front and one in back. i had to hurry because power acoustic plasmaspere amps are discontinued. those cool plasma lights will definately add some extra bling to the rig.
originally i planned a wooden trailer with green tinted burl maple laminate, 4 X 8" woofers and front and back firing stereo pairs but instead i'm going to use the carpeted acoustic suspension 10" sub i already have and my 4 NHT superzeros wired in parallel stereo for a 4 ohm load. i'll be angling the NHTs at about 45 degrees in the corners with left channels in opposite corners and the same for rights so wherever anyone stands, they'll be able to hear music in stereo.
instead of bulky and heavy wood, the trailers shell will be lightweight fabric stretched over a lightweight frame. i wasn't too keen on the black plastic wheels on the cheapest trailer i could find until i found the perfect material. it's a translucent black material covered with a bunch of chrome polkadots about the size of sequins. the silver on black would really tie the black wheels of the trailer to the chrome on chrome of my lowrider bike.
i'll post pics when it's built. to start, i'll be running one amp at 150wpc stereo for the mains and use one 150w channel of the other amp for the sub. it's a bridgeable amp, but my goldwood sub is only rated to 120w and using just one channel should be an easier load for the 12v battery i'll be using.
i'll have to find a way to hinge the shell so i can lift it to change CDs or volume until i get a deck with a remote.
i'm not riding with my old system after officer friendly kicked me off the sidewalk a couple saturday's ago.
if you're interested, here's pics of the amps i'm waiting for and what superzeros look like
power acoustic amps (while the link still exists)
http://caraudio.avdeals.com/amplifiers/largeimages/ts620-2.jpg
NHT super zeros
http://www.nhthifi.com/2006/images/about/SuperZero_lg.jpg
and stay tuned to my street party bicycle web page if the subject interests you. i've already added a links page with links to all of the various bike etc. systems i've found online and will be totally re-doing the homepage when i have my new system built and plan on adding another page with cool accesories for street party systems and riding like flashwear ILLUMINATED graphic EQ teeshirts. check these out...
http://www.google.com/search?gbv=2&hl=en&q=flashwear&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw
hmm... the direct link i posted was eaten by google! just click on the T-Equalizer link in the 1st google result to get to the page i tried to post.
how cool are those? i ordered the TQ chiller design from raveworx.com because they are one of the few shops not carrying the fugly yellow and red design and have 2X and 3X sizes while many shops only sell up to large.
good thing i remembered to copy and paste this. as usual, DIY logged me out while typing this reply! i hate that!
i've already bought my amplifiers. i'll be mounting one in front and one in back. i had to hurry because power acoustic plasmaspere amps are discontinued. those cool plasma lights will definately add some extra bling to the rig.
originally i planned a wooden trailer with green tinted burl maple laminate, 4 X 8" woofers and front and back firing stereo pairs but instead i'm going to use the carpeted acoustic suspension 10" sub i already have and my 4 NHT superzeros wired in parallel stereo for a 4 ohm load. i'll be angling the NHTs at about 45 degrees in the corners with left channels in opposite corners and the same for rights so wherever anyone stands, they'll be able to hear music in stereo.
instead of bulky and heavy wood, the trailers shell will be lightweight fabric stretched over a lightweight frame. i wasn't too keen on the black plastic wheels on the cheapest trailer i could find until i found the perfect material. it's a translucent black material covered with a bunch of chrome polkadots about the size of sequins. the silver on black would really tie the black wheels of the trailer to the chrome on chrome of my lowrider bike.
i'll post pics when it's built. to start, i'll be running one amp at 150wpc stereo for the mains and use one 150w channel of the other amp for the sub. it's a bridgeable amp, but my goldwood sub is only rated to 120w and using just one channel should be an easier load for the 12v battery i'll be using.
i'll have to find a way to hinge the shell so i can lift it to change CDs or volume until i get a deck with a remote.
i'm not riding with my old system after officer friendly kicked me off the sidewalk a couple saturday's ago.
if you're interested, here's pics of the amps i'm waiting for and what superzeros look like
power acoustic amps (while the link still exists)
http://caraudio.avdeals.com/amplifiers/largeimages/ts620-2.jpg
NHT super zeros
http://www.nhthifi.com/2006/images/about/SuperZero_lg.jpg
and stay tuned to my street party bicycle web page if the subject interests you. i've already added a links page with links to all of the various bike etc. systems i've found online and will be totally re-doing the homepage when i have my new system built and plan on adding another page with cool accesories for street party systems and riding like flashwear ILLUMINATED graphic EQ teeshirts. check these out...
http://www.google.com/search?gbv=2&hl=en&q=flashwear&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw
hmm... the direct link i posted was eaten by google! just click on the T-Equalizer link in the 1st google result to get to the page i tried to post.
how cool are those? i ordered the TQ chiller design from raveworx.com because they are one of the few shops not carrying the fugly yellow and red design and have 2X and 3X sizes while many shops only sell up to large.
good thing i remembered to copy and paste this. as usual, DIY logged me out while typing this reply! i hate that!
check out my street party bike pages. i'm building a 450w trailer with lighting effects. right now i just have a pic of the gear i'll be using, but i'll be updating the page as soon as it's finished.
i just have a couple technical details to work out and a few missing pices i need to get like a strap handle for the 10" sub, a circuit breaker for the 12v battery, and to find out where i can get "step down transformers" (or whatever the technical term is) so that i can power some rave lights.
check it out at
http://takatomon2000.googlepages.com/my_street_party_bike
if you're interested. it will have great SQ and eye candy when it's done
son of a ragga fragga bisquit! this dang forum is blocking me from posting a new thread about converting 12v to 4.5v etc. with that stupid freakin' "search first" block. i HAVE searched about 8 times and i STILL can't create a new thread! arrrrrrrrrgh!
can someone tell me HERE what i need to do to step down voltages and amperages without buying $$$ AC converters +$$$ wall warts?
while you're at it, tell me why i can't create a new thread even AFTER multiple searches?
i just have a couple technical details to work out and a few missing pices i need to get like a strap handle for the 10" sub, a circuit breaker for the 12v battery, and to find out where i can get "step down transformers" (or whatever the technical term is) so that i can power some rave lights.
check it out at
http://takatomon2000.googlepages.com/my_street_party_bike
if you're interested. it will have great SQ and eye candy when it's done
son of a ragga fragga bisquit! this dang forum is blocking me from posting a new thread about converting 12v to 4.5v etc. with that stupid freakin' "search first" block. i HAVE searched about 8 times and i STILL can't create a new thread! arrrrrrrrrgh!
can someone tell me HERE what i need to do to step down voltages and amperages without buying $$$ AC converters +$$$ wall warts?
while you're at it, tell me why i can't create a new thread even AFTER multiple searches?
lol.. how about click the check box that says you've already searched.
Step down transformers will only work on AC. You'll either need to invert it up to 120vac, and then back down with a transformer, or find some 12vdc lights.
Or build a switch mode buck converter if you're into electronics. maybe you could get away with running 2 or 3 lights in series off the 12vdc instead?
Step down transformers will only work on AC. You'll either need to invert it up to 120vac, and then back down with a transformer, or find some 12vdc lights.
Or build a switch mode buck converter if you're into electronics. maybe you could get away with running 2 or 3 lights in series off the 12vdc instead?
right, i know that "step down transformer" isn't what i need, but it SOUNDS like what i'd need.
wouldn't running rave lights that use 3X AAAs, even in series still be too much power? there's a big diference between whatever milliamps cell batteries put out and the 800 amps of my car battery.
before i started putting the system together, i found out that anything less than 8 guage wire to my amps would be a fire hazard. i would think that much power would fry the daylights out of those little toy rave spinners.
i'll have to look into that tech you mentioned. i don't think i ever even heard of it. if it isn't a complicated tech i'll DIY it. an inverter + wall warts just seems clunky and expensive where the right circuit you mention would eliminate the A/C middleman.
i can more or less read a schematic (except for resistor directions & any other little snags like that) and if the circuit you mention is no more complicatedthan a speaker crossover, i can manage.
thanks for your help.
as to the "already searched" button, i didn't see it but i DID keep trying to mark all of my search results as read but that didn't help. the button must be hidden in some corner where it doesn't stand out. it would be so much simpler if there were just a confirmation box when you try to create a thread.
thanks again for that too. i couldn't find the old thread where i was 1st told about it but i should find it better in this one. i think it was buried in the middle some really long thread.
wouldn't running rave lights that use 3X AAAs, even in series still be too much power? there's a big diference between whatever milliamps cell batteries put out and the 800 amps of my car battery.
before i started putting the system together, i found out that anything less than 8 guage wire to my amps would be a fire hazard. i would think that much power would fry the daylights out of those little toy rave spinners.
i'll have to look into that tech you mentioned. i don't think i ever even heard of it. if it isn't a complicated tech i'll DIY it. an inverter + wall warts just seems clunky and expensive where the right circuit you mention would eliminate the A/C middleman.
i can more or less read a schematic (except for resistor directions & any other little snags like that) and if the circuit you mention is no more complicatedthan a speaker crossover, i can manage.
thanks for your help.
as to the "already searched" button, i didn't see it but i DID keep trying to mark all of my search results as read but that didn't help. the button must be hidden in some corner where it doesn't stand out. it would be so much simpler if there were just a confirmation box when you try to create a thread.
thanks again for that too. i couldn't find the old thread where i was 1st told about it but i should find it better in this one. i think it was buried in the middle some really long thread.
Nah, if they run on 3x AAA then you need 4.5 volts. Running 3 in series will give you 4 volts, which is likely close enough. 2 in series is 6v which might be risky, depending on the design of the lights.
don't worry about current. It doesn't work that way. the device will only draw as much current as it needs. Ohm's law says so.
V=IR
V(voltage) is a constant (12V)
I(current) is unknown
R(resistance) is a constant
If your lights will work off of 4ish v instead of 4.5, you're good.
If it'll work off rechargable AAAs it's pretty much a sure thing, since they're usually only about 1.2V, giving you 3.6
Keep in mind, that if there's any exposed metal parts on the lights, they might be grounded to one end of the battery. If you were to touch them together and they are grounded, you'll short across one light, and overvoltage the other one(s) If they have metal parts that could touch, just measure between them while they're running. If you get a voltage, make sure they don't touch each other. If no voltage, don't worry about it.
-Nick
don't worry about current. It doesn't work that way. the device will only draw as much current as it needs. Ohm's law says so.
V=IR
V(voltage) is a constant (12V)
I(current) is unknown
R(resistance) is a constant
If your lights will work off of 4ish v instead of 4.5, you're good.
If it'll work off rechargable AAAs it's pretty much a sure thing, since they're usually only about 1.2V, giving you 3.6
Keep in mind, that if there's any exposed metal parts on the lights, they might be grounded to one end of the battery. If you were to touch them together and they are grounded, you'll short across one light, and overvoltage the other one(s) If they have metal parts that could touch, just measure between them while they're running. If you get a voltage, make sure they don't touch each other. If no voltage, don't worry about it.
-Nick
If you have the volts available something like one of these could be even more the thing.....
http://www.bigclive.com/shop.htm
The big one needs 24 volts but a couple of sealed lead acids should be enough for the task, and wouldn't add to the weight too badly. It would be worth the extra pedalling to see the whole thing strobing.
Also take a look at his "Things to make and do" section for details on how best to blow up toffees and other essential info.
John
http://www.bigclive.com/shop.htm
The big one needs 24 volts but a couple of sealed lead acids should be enough for the task, and wouldn't add to the weight too badly. It would be worth the extra pedalling to see the whole thing strobing.
Also take a look at his "Things to make and do" section for details on how best to blow up toffees and other essential info.
John
hey... thanks a MILLION for that link john! that was something else i was eventually going to look for... LED controllers for ground effects lighting. you read my mind there! i was thinking of just hacking some dollar store bike tail lights but the last time i tried, i kept pulling the "etching" (?) off when i tried to de-solder them. i just ordred a catalogue from ramsey's hoping i could find seperate LED sequencers. any time i've tried to google them i just find schematics that are a bit over my head. i learned everything i know about schematics from crossovers.
in case i haven't mentioned it yet, i also planned on putting these really cool electroluminescent "graphic EQ" displays on each side of the trailer too as soon as i can get them. they started out as "TQ chillers" which are TEE- SHIRTS (!!!) but now they've also mounted them in black frames behind plexiglass with silver lugs in the corner that look really classy and would match the fabric i'm using nicely.
i'm hoping to get the whole thing built in time for the bikes & lights parade coming up next month, but shipping in time might be an issue.
as excited as people get just seeing my lowrider, a rave spinner for the 1st time or my old frumpy off the shelf sonic impact/mission M71 mountain bike system, i think they'd lose their minds seeing the trailer and everthing else combined.
i might not be as "kustom" as the legendary choprical fish or be able to SPL drag race with this forum's own samV system pictured in this thread but i will have adequate eye candy and nice ACOUSTIC SUSPENSION sound quality. i can't stand ported subs! i like to thump.
if i had my way, i'd use a magnepan for my sub. you'll never hear bass that fast with a cone.
if the trailer proves to be a hit here, eventually i think i'll get an EQ and SPL meter & tweak my sound too.
thank you kindly for all of your help techies. i couldn't do it without ya!
in case i haven't mentioned it yet, i also planned on putting these really cool electroluminescent "graphic EQ" displays on each side of the trailer too as soon as i can get them. they started out as "TQ chillers" which are TEE- SHIRTS (!!!) but now they've also mounted them in black frames behind plexiglass with silver lugs in the corner that look really classy and would match the fabric i'm using nicely.
i'm hoping to get the whole thing built in time for the bikes & lights parade coming up next month, but shipping in time might be an issue.
as excited as people get just seeing my lowrider, a rave spinner for the 1st time or my old frumpy off the shelf sonic impact/mission M71 mountain bike system, i think they'd lose their minds seeing the trailer and everthing else combined.
i might not be as "kustom" as the legendary choprical fish or be able to SPL drag race with this forum's own samV system pictured in this thread but i will have adequate eye candy and nice ACOUSTIC SUSPENSION sound quality. i can't stand ported subs! i like to thump.
if i had my way, i'd use a magnepan for my sub. you'll never hear bass that fast with a cone.
if the trailer proves to be a hit here, eventually i think i'll get an EQ and SPL meter & tweak my sound too.
thank you kindly for all of your help techies. i couldn't do it without ya!
definately if i can get my hand on a camcorder. i might even be inclined to rent one so i can youtube it.
i just stopped back to give some URLs to the seperate components actually.
here's a pic of the frame:
http://www.glow-sticks.org/images/products/speaqualiser-chiller.jpg
i'll put one of these on each side of the trailer
here's a video of the shirt in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGnxhI-9eMI
here's a video of the hypnotic windmill
http://www.houseofrave.com/the-lightshow-stick.html
it looks cooler in real life & at a distance. the colors glow more. i plan on putting one in each lower corner front & back under the plasmaspere's in the center
here's a video with a pair of my amps' bigger brothers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hea4KUI6wKk
those plasmasphere's are even cooler than i thought. i wish they had sensitivity controls as they effect shuts off completely at lower volumes but the really neat thing is that the patterns change with different songs. sometimes the effect is like glowing cobwebs and at others just a few distinct lightning bolts and usually a combination of the two with the brighter bolts literally dancing in sync with the music. i was surprised too when i tested them that their was a nice deep electric blue and not the pale sky blu in the pics. they're also very bright and can cause eye strain when staring at them too long at around 8 feet in the dark. visibility sure won't be an issue.
originally, i wanted to build an all wooden trailer with 144 spoke lowrider wheels, but couldn't find a trick looking chrome universal joint and didn't want to spend $$$ having a custom center mounted hitch built so i just went off the shelf with an in-step pronto deluxe.
when i first planned the trailer i'd also intended to put a mirrored disco ball up in the air on a pole through the center of the trailer with 4X8" subs pointing up along with different colored LED spots in the corners pointing up at it.
when i get the time, i plan on adding a section to my web page with various concepts for bikes & lighting effects etc. along with cool gear like the stuff above & bicycle RF ipod remotes, sonic impact amps etc. too to inspire other builders to make their own statements.
i just wish search engines would look for boolean tags in home made pages for better search results. i can't find ANY of the "street party bike" pics etc. i've put online with any search engine and all i ever get for image searches is junk results like mardi gras. oh well
thanks for the enthusiasm. i'll keep you posted as things progress for sure.
i just stopped back to give some URLs to the seperate components actually.
here's a pic of the frame:
http://www.glow-sticks.org/images/products/speaqualiser-chiller.jpg
i'll put one of these on each side of the trailer
here's a video of the shirt in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGnxhI-9eMI
here's a video of the hypnotic windmill
http://www.houseofrave.com/the-lightshow-stick.html
it looks cooler in real life & at a distance. the colors glow more. i plan on putting one in each lower corner front & back under the plasmaspere's in the center
here's a video with a pair of my amps' bigger brothers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hea4KUI6wKk
those plasmasphere's are even cooler than i thought. i wish they had sensitivity controls as they effect shuts off completely at lower volumes but the really neat thing is that the patterns change with different songs. sometimes the effect is like glowing cobwebs and at others just a few distinct lightning bolts and usually a combination of the two with the brighter bolts literally dancing in sync with the music. i was surprised too when i tested them that their was a nice deep electric blue and not the pale sky blu in the pics. they're also very bright and can cause eye strain when staring at them too long at around 8 feet in the dark. visibility sure won't be an issue.
originally, i wanted to build an all wooden trailer with 144 spoke lowrider wheels, but couldn't find a trick looking chrome universal joint and didn't want to spend $$$ having a custom center mounted hitch built so i just went off the shelf with an in-step pronto deluxe.
when i first planned the trailer i'd also intended to put a mirrored disco ball up in the air on a pole through the center of the trailer with 4X8" subs pointing up along with different colored LED spots in the corners pointing up at it.
when i get the time, i plan on adding a section to my web page with various concepts for bikes & lighting effects etc. along with cool gear like the stuff above & bicycle RF ipod remotes, sonic impact amps etc. too to inspire other builders to make their own statements.
i just wish search engines would look for boolean tags in home made pages for better search results. i can't find ANY of the "street party bike" pics etc. i've put online with any search engine and all i ever get for image searches is junk results like mardi gras. oh well
thanks for the enthusiasm. i'll keep you posted as things progress for sure.
Funky Bike's
Haha, never have i seen so much Madness!
For the amplifier part of it, Class Dlooks like the way to go, anything else will empty your battery in no time.
There are a few possebilities when it comes to this, getting one amplifier with massive power requires high voltage and usually 2 rails. this is difficult to achieve, you'll need a DC DC converter to get it done off of a normal battery.
Using normal AA batteries is really a bad idea, it is simply not enough power. if you want it Cheap use lead acid cells, if you have some more to spend, i can get here Lithium polimer cells up to 12 A @ 3.7 volt. ( not sure if im allouwed to ship those! )
I suggest the following, i can get here Cheaply some sweet sounding 4" full range speakers, and i suggest despite your dislike for Transmission lines, Euh, Transmission lines!!
you can use PVC tubes, and i think if you put 5 speakers per side, all using there own tube well adjusted ( i have AJhorn, ill help you calculate the length )
you can use theTA2024 PCB for amplification.
This has as advantage that you need only 5 amps, ( 25 Euro! )
Efficinecy is around 88%, Idle current is 60mA per PCB so 300mA
Using a 10A lead acid that should be able to run for a bit!
The 4" speakers i can get are 88 DB not bad for a 4" er and full range!
i think also you should make a lowrider bike, like a chopper model that would look sweet!
If you wanna go Green all the way, i can also get 18 Volts 5 Watt solar panels.... if you make a lowrider, you can add a solar roof... that would be Wild!
Haha, never have i seen so much Madness!
For the amplifier part of it, Class Dlooks like the way to go, anything else will empty your battery in no time.
There are a few possebilities when it comes to this, getting one amplifier with massive power requires high voltage and usually 2 rails. this is difficult to achieve, you'll need a DC DC converter to get it done off of a normal battery.
Using normal AA batteries is really a bad idea, it is simply not enough power. if you want it Cheap use lead acid cells, if you have some more to spend, i can get here Lithium polimer cells up to 12 A @ 3.7 volt. ( not sure if im allouwed to ship those! )
I suggest the following, i can get here Cheaply some sweet sounding 4" full range speakers, and i suggest despite your dislike for Transmission lines, Euh, Transmission lines!!
you can use PVC tubes, and i think if you put 5 speakers per side, all using there own tube well adjusted ( i have AJhorn, ill help you calculate the length )
you can use theTA2024 PCB for amplification.
This has as advantage that you need only 5 amps, ( 25 Euro! )
Efficinecy is around 88%, Idle current is 60mA per PCB so 300mA
Using a 10A lead acid that should be able to run for a bit!
The 4" speakers i can get are 88 DB not bad for a 4" er and full range!
i think also you should make a lowrider bike, like a chopper model that would look sweet!
If you wanna go Green all the way, i can also get 18 Volts 5 Watt solar panels.... if you make a lowrider, you can add a solar roof... that would be Wild!
check the link to my street rider bike out. i have apic of my lowrider at the bottom. i plan on upgrading it with a twisted sissybar, twisted cranks (lower gear ratio) & pedals, a solid chrome crank, & a 2 tone B&W velour seat.
i also wanted to get custom paint for the fenders, lower fork, frame & chainguard (laser etched iridescent metalflake) but the one motorcycle shop i contacted wanted $1200! i could get a full on custom frame AND paint job for that at twentysixinch.com! when i was back in syracuse, one bike shop offered MULTICOLORED/AIRBRUSHED custom paint jobs for a reasonable $200. i'd do it myself if i didn't want old school glitter size metalflake.
i don't really plan on running my system at full volume most of the time anyways and i have a 93dB efficient sub as well as 92dB efficient superzeroes when i run them parallel which will be much louder than my 86dB missions with just 10w. i only intend to blast when i'm going by nightclubs.
as to the ohm's law comment a while back, it makes sense that you can run low watt light bulbs off 120v AC, but the rave spinners have motors which can take variable power. more power = faster spinning until you burn the motor out. i wouldn't want to risk that. i'd rather invest in an inverter and DIY some transformers.
the whole point of my trailer though is to be able to out SQ CAR systems because bikes are cooler than cars... so i'm "representin'"
i also wanted to get custom paint for the fenders, lower fork, frame & chainguard (laser etched iridescent metalflake) but the one motorcycle shop i contacted wanted $1200! i could get a full on custom frame AND paint job for that at twentysixinch.com! when i was back in syracuse, one bike shop offered MULTICOLORED/AIRBRUSHED custom paint jobs for a reasonable $200. i'd do it myself if i didn't want old school glitter size metalflake.
i don't really plan on running my system at full volume most of the time anyways and i have a 93dB efficient sub as well as 92dB efficient superzeroes when i run them parallel which will be much louder than my 86dB missions with just 10w. i only intend to blast when i'm going by nightclubs.
as to the ohm's law comment a while back, it makes sense that you can run low watt light bulbs off 120v AC, but the rave spinners have motors which can take variable power. more power = faster spinning until you burn the motor out. i wouldn't want to risk that. i'd rather invest in an inverter and DIY some transformers.
the whole point of my trailer though is to be able to out SQ CAR systems because bikes are cooler than cars... so i'm "representin'"
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