Sorry, my mistake. I mistook the "u" of "uF" as an extra zero on end of 2200! I thought you had 22,000uF caps!!!
Yes, that looks fine, including the bypass caps. Thanks.
-Charlie
That power supply shows the minimum expense for a nice traditional power circuit.
Possible upgrades include:
1). A pair of 10,000uF caps at the output end of the power supply board, if higher current/larger speakers or a baxandall is used along with Parallel chip amplifier. Buying the 10,000uF caps has the caveat that you should have spent for a capacitive multiplier instead
2). A snubbed rectifier or a dual snubbed rectifier (1 tiny polyester cap per each diode), especially when incorporating a tuner or upgrading a receiver, and this upgrade can further drop amplifier heatsink temperatures.
3). ONE rail to rail cap (polyester tweeter cap in the range of 2uF~4.7uF from V+ to V- as close as possible to the amplifier boards), and this upgrade removes some solid state shout sound as well as further reducing amplifier heatsink temperatures.
4). A ground loop breaker for chassis ground (compatibility with grounded sources, such as a computer), and this is a safety device that may get you better bass too, but what its really for is to block hum and reduce noise--your RF filters and other noise reduction will have access to an actual ground.
5). A non-conductive enclosure--this is somewhat safer because your elbow on the edge of the enclosure doesn't contact a metal reference while your finger makes contact with a cap that is not yet discharged. Your amplifier needs a ground, but your elbow doesn't.
6). LED power lamp!!! This is necessary for DIY projects because the power lamp serves as a safety device that warns of high voltage present. The drainer resistors pictured are slow and need time to work, so this problem needs an LED indicator. One LED can go on the power supply board and the other on the enclosure (one per each rail, for balanced rails).
Possible upgrades include:
1). A pair of 10,000uF caps at the output end of the power supply board, if higher current/larger speakers or a baxandall is used along with Parallel chip amplifier. Buying the 10,000uF caps has the caveat that you should have spent for a capacitive multiplier instead
2). A snubbed rectifier or a dual snubbed rectifier (1 tiny polyester cap per each diode), especially when incorporating a tuner or upgrading a receiver, and this upgrade can further drop amplifier heatsink temperatures.
3). ONE rail to rail cap (polyester tweeter cap in the range of 2uF~4.7uF from V+ to V- as close as possible to the amplifier boards), and this upgrade removes some solid state shout sound as well as further reducing amplifier heatsink temperatures.
4). A ground loop breaker for chassis ground (compatibility with grounded sources, such as a computer), and this is a safety device that may get you better bass too, but what its really for is to block hum and reduce noise--your RF filters and other noise reduction will have access to an actual ground.
5). A non-conductive enclosure--this is somewhat safer because your elbow on the edge of the enclosure doesn't contact a metal reference while your finger makes contact with a cap that is not yet discharged. Your amplifier needs a ground, but your elbow doesn't.
6). LED power lamp!!! This is necessary for DIY projects because the power lamp serves as a safety device that warns of high voltage present. The drainer resistors pictured are slow and need time to work, so this problem needs an LED indicator. One LED can go on the power supply board and the other on the enclosure (one per each rail, for balanced rails).
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Hi,
after surveying and some minor research in chipamp, i'm now considering and completing the project using TDA7294, powered with toroiddal transformer 35-0-35 capped with 4700uf + 2200uf 63V and 104 ceramic. they works great not i'm just 'inject' the circuit with my iPod nano. they sound nice using 4ohm speakers, seems it doesn't need pre-amplifier, the bass and treble so clear...
after surveying and some minor research in chipamp, i'm now considering and completing the project using TDA7294, powered with toroiddal transformer 35-0-35 capped with 4700uf + 2200uf 63V and 104 ceramic. they works great not i'm just 'inject' the circuit with my iPod nano. they sound nice using 4ohm speakers, seems it doesn't need pre-amplifier, the bass and treble so clear...
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