OK... as far as I can tell, I have replaced every broken component and all the soldering joints are good. The protect light still comes on on the side that had broken. The power transistors were Sanken A1386 and C3519, which were replaced with MJL1302A and MJL3281A. From what I read these are good replacements, but I was wondering if the protect circuit could be sensitive to the change? Other parts replaced:
1 D669A, 1 B649A, two 100ohm resistors 1% tolerance, 10uF 50V cap replaced with 10uf 250V cap
I don't know enough to do anything besides diagnose and replace individual parts, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Do you think I could email Onix and get a schematic?
1 D669A, 1 B649A, two 100ohm resistors 1% tolerance, 10uF 50V cap replaced with 10uf 250V cap
I don't know enough to do anything besides diagnose and replace individual parts, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Do you think I could email Onix and get a schematic?
Hi fiak,
No. Poor advice.
An output relay sounds better than a fuse. A fuse sounds better than flames. Insurance will not cover if they find equipment safety has been degraded or defeated.
We went over this in another thread. Never defeat existing safety precautions. I have over 30 yrs of service experience to back me up on that one.
-Chris
No. Poor advice.
An output relay sounds better than a fuse. A fuse sounds better than flames. Insurance will not cover if they find equipment safety has been degraded or defeated.
We went over this in another thread. Never defeat existing safety precautions. I have over 30 yrs of service experience to back me up on that one.
-Chris
advice from someone who repair amps (and similar #$%&***!) for a living:
when you are in that situation (selective replacements are not effective) replace all smaller active devices in that channel,also diodes;
trust me-in 90% of repairs ,that's fastest and most secure way.........
when you are in that situation (selective replacements are not effective) replace all smaller active devices in that channel,also diodes;
trust me-in 90% of repairs ,that's fastest and most secure way.........
anatech said:Hi choky,
It helps to look at the pretty picture sometimes too.
After you are burned enough times in service you recognise amplifier types. Given a choice I'll always look at the schematic if I can.
-Chris
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the components marked in red are the ones which I found were bad and have replaced.
They were nice enough to dig this up for me. Funny that it's "Onix Electronics England" but there's Korean (I think) on the schematic. Oh well, doesn't mean it's not a good amp.
This is from the 2nd version of the amp, I have the first, but the only difference on the outside is the addition of a remote for volume, so not much should have changed circuit-wise.
This is from the 2nd version of the amp, I have the first, but the only difference on the outside is the addition of a remote for volume, so not much should have changed circuit-wise.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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