I want to regulate the signal processor & controllor & RAM of my CDP, my Vout target is +5V and current drwas the chip is 70mA, the question is wich value I have to use the cap for Vref, the BiB guide says lytic 220uF, if I remember well once time Salas told me 1000uF to supply a clock.
I have been using Panasonic FM, 1000 uF in that position for digital circuits/clocks. I cannot say that it is "better" than 220 uF for sure... but it certainly is sounding great in my application.
Typically clocks need very low noise below 10Hz is argued and the big cap does that band filtering more intense, now what every different clock appreciates more, I am not an expert in digital sources to tell. The big cap may has more ESL on the other hand, differs by brand and model in parameters anyway. So you judge by picking it up or not and what is best for you subjectively. To surely say, it takes lab testing for any combination of reg and load to optimize. Above the means and heads of the majority of hobbyists. I just found 220uF non problematic and quiet that is why I put it in the guide. Shows good enough wide band noise filtering in Spice too.
I got 100 2sk117gr (measured with 9V battery in the range from 2,8mA to 6,1mA), so wonderd what the optimum IDSS is for Q102, 103, 105 ???
The bib guide in appendix5 says to use
Q102 = small Idss
Q103 = medium
Q105 = highest idss
Is that because
- Q102 should be like 3mA; Q103 = 4mA, and Q105 5mA?
- or because the all should be as low as possible (but with Q102 most important for performance)?
- or because the all should be as high as possible (but with Q105 most important for performance)?
peter
The bib guide in appendix5 says to use
Q102 = small Idss
Q103 = medium
Q105 = highest idss
Is that because
- Q102 should be like 3mA; Q103 = 4mA, and Q105 5mA?
- or because the all should be as low as possible (but with Q102 most important for performance)?
- or because the all should be as high as possible (but with Q105 most important for performance)?
peter
Those things must be really tiny. Did you get to listen to the combo better?
Yeap! Definitely sounds better than both the stock switching supply and the LM317-based one I was using.
Smoother highs and bigger sound-stage (the latter effect is especially shocking with headphones).
Thanks Salas (and Tea-Bag for organizing these great GBs)!
The S,
have you posted build and/or design details in another Thread?
Links please.
I had the idea in my head that I²S was a very local connection (all inside a PCB).
I see an external socket. How far can I²S run?
I also see sense going out of the very nice PSU.
I know I am safety conscious.
Can you fit a cover over the mains fuse?
Can you insulate the mains wire ends of the fuse holder?
Can you insulate the case under the fuse holder and an area around it, just in case something moves/drops/touches?
have you posted build and/or design details in another Thread?
Links please.
I had the idea in my head that I²S was a very local connection (all inside a PCB).
I see an external socket. How far can I²S run?
I also see sense going out of the very nice PSU.
I know I am safety conscious.
Can you fit a cover over the mains fuse?
Can you insulate the mains wire ends of the fuse holder?
Can you insulate the case under the fuse holder and an area around it, just in case something moves/drops/touches?
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Hi Andrew,
I don't think I've posted any details.
M2Tech EVO is a commercial product (you can find more about it here) - I just built the external PSU.
The EVO's I2S output is buffered. Works fine up to at least 25cm (that's the max I need), using S/FTP cable.
If I wanted to send it farther away, I'd probably use something like this.
Regarding the shunt, I've used R-Core transformer, Panasonic & Wima caps, Dale and Ohmite resistors, Stealth II diodes, a Schaffner filter with earth choke and a 4-pin Neutrik "XLR" connector at the output.
The external cable uses silver-plated, teflon-insulated copper wires (I buy off eBay), two pairs of UTP for sense and Belden copper braid for shielding.
Current is set at 800mA but it's too much for this enclosure. I suspect the EVO has a lower idle consumption than what the M2Tech people told me since things were better heat-wise with an equivalent dummy load.
Heat is manageable for an one hour listening session or something but I'd rather have it run 24/7 (since the EVO feeds both my PC and main system DACs).
I'll drop it to ~600mA as soon as I get new resistors.
I don't think I've posted any details.
M2Tech EVO is a commercial product (you can find more about it here) - I just built the external PSU.
The EVO's I2S output is buffered. Works fine up to at least 25cm (that's the max I need), using S/FTP cable.
If I wanted to send it farther away, I'd probably use something like this.
Regarding the shunt, I've used R-Core transformer, Panasonic & Wima caps, Dale and Ohmite resistors, Stealth II diodes, a Schaffner filter with earth choke and a 4-pin Neutrik "XLR" connector at the output.
The external cable uses silver-plated, teflon-insulated copper wires (I buy off eBay), two pairs of UTP for sense and Belden copper braid for shielding.
Current is set at 800mA but it's too much for this enclosure. I suspect the EVO has a lower idle consumption than what the M2Tech people told me since things were better heat-wise with an equivalent dummy load.
Heat is manageable for an one hour listening session or something but I'd rather have it run 24/7 (since the EVO feeds both my PC and main system DACs).
I'll drop it to ~600mA as soon as I get new resistors.
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I much prefer higher value resistors soldered in parallel. The original DCB1 could accommodate six //Rs for each CCS.
Then it is cheap and easy to increase CCS current by adding extra resistors and no de-soldering required. If the heat proves to be too much, then that last addition can be snipped off.
How does voltage regulator sense work into some other manufacturer's product?
Then it is cheap and easy to increase CCS current by adding extra resistors and no de-soldering required. If the heat proves to be too much, then that last addition can be snipped off.
How does voltage regulator sense work into some other manufacturer's product?
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