SSLV1.1 builds & fairy tales

Jump to Latest
alexkosha

alexkosha

Member
Joined 2013
Salas said:
alexkosha said:
Hi Salas,

I learned BIB manual and come up with the final setup list.
I need your advice about general set (if I understood what and how correctly) and precision for 301.

1. a. Vin from Raw DC = 39.9V
b. Vout (which I need for BHL) = 24V
c. Constant current (R301) = 200mA (per your advice for current limit)
d. Load consumption = 50mA (measured about 30mA with Fluke DVM on idle)
e. 3 Yellow or Green LEDs = all for 2.1V (D102A Vf = 0)
f. Q103 Idss = 4mA (not measured, and left as is) – how important to measure it in such precision? Also how important to set 302,303 and 305 in gain progressive order?
g. 2 Red LEDs = all for 1.9V
h. R103 = 1k8 1/4W (per EXL with 5k potentiometer) – Any particular brand/% spec/PPM?
i. Temp and safety factor is the same as in your initial table.

So, R301 is calculated to 8R9. I can’t find such value and since you mention “ballpark” values then what should I use: 8R2, 9R1 or 10R?
Kiwame 5W – is this one should be OK? Any other preferable brands and types?

You already advised about heatsink for 8W and I have it.

Last question: if I use Raw DC in separate box based on you Folded manual, then I do not need to use rectifier and (C305) 4700uF in input section of BIB. I need to bypass it. Right?

It will help me a lot.
Thank you.
Click to expand...

Answer from Salas:

e. Green are easier to find in 2 to 2.2V than yellow
f. 10% will do. The other two can be randomly populated if not over 5mA.
g. One red led will be enough in your case. Jumper the 2nd led's pads.
h. Vishay or alike metal film no more than 100ppm

R301. Use 8R2 2W Vishay or alike up to 100ppm or Caddock MP925 or 930-8 without sink. Some claim the Caddock is the most synergistic.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
alexkosha

alexkosha

Member
Joined 2013
Salas said:
alexkosha said:
Hi Salas,

Thank you for that detailed answers. I'll flow your directions as soon as I'll receive BIB kit. tea-Bag committed to sent it over at the end of October.

How about my "last question": If I use Raw DC in separate box with umbilical cord based on your Folded manual, then I do not need to use rectifier and (C305) 4700uF on input section of BIB. I need to bypass it. Right?

One more: can use 9V battery to test JFETs?
They asked for current limited PSU in that guide, but why batter is not enough to use there?

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Answer from Salas:

Right, bypass it. Go directly to the pins of the local 4.7mF cap's position. You could also use 470uF there for decoupling and termination of the incoming wires though.

You can use 9V batteries alright.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
alexkosha

alexkosha

Member
Joined 2013
Hi Salas,

I have a question related to BIB manual.
You mentioned that R105, R205 and R305 should be equipped with Trimmer Bourns 3296Y style. I see that all pads on PCBs are in-line and such design required 3296W and not Y. Please see attached SPEC and let me know which is required: W or Y.
 

Attachments

  • 3296Y or W.jpg
    3296Y or W.jpg
    80.1 KB · Views: 295
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
alexkosha said:
I see. Thank you.
I did not get my BIB PCB yet, but I did see the picture in manual.
At that case I safe..:).
Click to expand...

I added those options before release when I saw almost all the Burns clones on Ebay follow the Y type when most reputable stockists carry the Burns original in W. That away any trimmer in hand could be useful at least for an interim test finding a value to make it a fixed resistor later, whatever.
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Yes, that will be the best quality/reliability practice. Other people don't mind just leaving the pot there in case they need it adjustable in the long term. But its more PPM of course and the wiper contact possibly delicate. In that case original Burns is advised, when for test purposes any cheap clone is useful. And the board supports both so no worries.
 
alexkosha

alexkosha

Member
Joined 2013
Hi all,

I'm struggling to purchase MKT, MKS4 or MMK caps. All what see is KEMET 63V and Vishay and WIMA but for 100V. All of these have 27.5mm PCM and manual says 15-22.5mm PCM. Mouser sale Ero MKT 1822 4.7uF and 10uF 63V for 100+ min order. Please help me to find these.
 
Last edited:
roger57

roger57

Member
Joined 2006
Salas said:
Epcos-TDK 4.7uF 22.5mm Mouser 871-B32523Q1475K

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click to expand...

Hi Salas!

Going to change topics here a bit if that's OK. Hope all is going well with you.

All Salas shunt regulators (SSHV & BiB) - I've now got 10 of them in 4 pieces of equipment - are function perfectly.

I have a question. From a standpoint of audible perception, what's the minimum time after power up that the regulator is at 100% ?

Kind regards,
Gary
 
Salas

Salas

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
roger57 said:
Hi Salas!

Going to change topics here a bit if that's OK. Hope all is going well with you.

All Salas shunt regulators (SSHV & BiB) - I've now got 10 of them in 4 pieces of equipment - are function perfectly.

I have a question. From a standpoint of audible perception, what's the minimum time after power up that the regulator is at 100% ?

Kind regards,
Gary
Click to expand...

30mins
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom