I used the SB13PFC (8 ohm) in a MTM, and found it very easy to work with. In this thread, users "mkusan" and "Mariao Pankov" are on the right track.
For a 2.6Khz crossover, try about a 1.1 or 1.2mH coil with 6-8uF cap to ground.
IME, you do not need to parallel a cap with the coil to suppress breakup.
Stock topology 2nd order woofer crossover.
I'd keep the ND25. I haven't used it, but it's received good reviews.
For a 2.6Khz crossover, try about a 1.1 or 1.2mH coil with 6-8uF cap to ground.
IME, you do not need to parallel a cap with the coil to suppress breakup.
Stock topology 2nd order woofer crossover.
I'd keep the ND25. I haven't used it, but it's received good reviews.
I am still waiting for information from the supplier regarding the tweeters.
Whichever will be available, I will take and go with that.
The problem is the availability of the other components here - I need to order everything from the net therefore I need to define my tweeter first. Will update later....
Whichever will be available, I will take and go with that.
The problem is the availability of the other components here - I need to order everything from the net therefore I need to define my tweeter first. Will update later....
IME, you do not need to parallel a cap with the coil to suppress breakup.
Stock topology 2nd order woofer crossover.
You`d never hit a LR2 without an LCR circuit on this woofer. The cone breakup is audible with the right material, it sounds like you`re rubbing your finger to the cone. Not very annoying but is there and needs to be addressed partially to achieve the desired slope.
I've canceled the order of the tweeter and found this one: BC25SC-06/04
Has someone has any experience with that? It has a lot of good reviews
Has someone has any experience with that? It has a lot of good reviews
I've canceled the order of the tweeter and found this one: BC25SC-06/04
Has someone has any experience with that? It has a lot of good reviews
Hello Sagi,
nothing wrong with that tweeter but:
1.) I would never, ever order anything from that site, see other users experiences
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/187520-bmm-electronics-europe-audio.html
2.) If you don't have the parts at hand yet, why would you NOT build a proven
design?
Kind regards
Marko
Hello Sagi,
nothing wrong with that tweeter but:
1.) I would never, ever order anything from that site, see other users experiences
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/187520-bmm-electronics-europe-audio.html
2.) If you don't have the parts at hand yet, why would you NOT build a proven
design?
Kind regards
Marko
Marko, I though it might be easy to start a new one from scratch, to see if I can handle this. As I understand now, it is more complicated than I expected therefore I will be happy to get recommendation for a known circuit inc. drivers for ~$200 or below.
Marko, I though it might be easy to start a new one from scratch, to see if I can handle this. As I understand now, it is more complicated than I expected therefore I will be happy to get recommendation for a known circuit inc. drivers for ~$200 or below.
Where are you located Sagi, it would help in making a recommendation?
Israel. Everything I purchase from abroad, Parts express or other companies are ok.
I think both of these kits are great value for money, shipping to Israel could be expensive so you should account for it, hope you will like them.
https://www.parts-express.com/tango...speaker-kit-with-knock-down-cabinet--300-7120
https://meniscusaudio.com/product/caritas-full-kit-pair/
Kind regards
Marko
Ordering cheap parts from overseas is not worth it. The taxes and shipping will be massive. Loudspeakerfreaks delivered my order 1 month after order. I tried to ask them many times what the delay is but no response. They also sent me 0.82 Ohm resistors instead of 1.5 Ohms. On the other hand they also included free stuff like mounting screws etc on the order.
If I recommended a kit, I'd recommend my Dayton Mini Monitors Under 100e per pair is well in your budget.
If I recommended a kit, I'd recommend my Dayton Mini Monitors Under 100e per pair is well in your budget.
Thanks for the offer!Can you not source Morel units cheaper in Israel?
If you want to stick the SB13PFC - go for the SB26STCN and I will send you plans and a crossover.
Morell although born an raised in Israel are not focusing on local market. There is no way you can buy here a driver in 20-30 euros.
I have a new plan for the SB13PFC & Dayton ND25FN. I will share it tomorrow.
For the PFC did you use vented or closed box?
Sagi
Sagi, I think it's time to re-evaluate what you are doing here. I'm all for a little 4-5" woofer with a 1" tweeter, apparently in a largish 15L, but it is really a bedroom speaker. Below is a much better idea.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/289344-seas-ca15rly-x2-cabinet-volume-suggestions.html
Looking at the SB Acoustics SB13PFC25-04, 5″ SB13PFC25-04 | SB Acoustics - SB Acoustics – Building Your Sound you really are in a world of grief with that 4 ohm impedance.
I'd wire two in series for 8 ohms and put them in 15L or so with a 3kHz crossover. Tweeter doesn't matter much. Most things will work. A 4-5" woofer really will disappoint at the bass end, and won't go loud. An MTM is a much better idea. This calculation will work with a simple second order crossover: mh-audio.nl - Home.
I think we could get the impedance reasonably flat too except at the bass end, which might help your valve cause. But the SB is a reflex driver at Qts 0.29.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/289344-seas-ca15rly-x2-cabinet-volume-suggestions.html
Looking at the SB Acoustics SB13PFC25-04, 5″ SB13PFC25-04 | SB Acoustics - SB Acoustics – Building Your Sound you really are in a world of grief with that 4 ohm impedance.
I'd wire two in series for 8 ohms and put them in 15L or so with a 3kHz crossover. Tweeter doesn't matter much. Most things will work. A 4-5" woofer really will disappoint at the bass end, and won't go loud. An MTM is a much better idea. This calculation will work with a simple second order crossover: mh-audio.nl - Home.
I think we could get the impedance reasonably flat too except at the bass end, which might help your valve cause. But the SB is a reflex driver at Qts 0.29.
Thanks for the offer!
Morell although born an raised in Israel are not focusing on local market. There is no way you can buy here a driver in 20-30 euros.
I have a new plan for the SB13PFC & Dayton ND25FN. I will share it tomorrow.
For the PFC did you use vented or closed box?
Sagi
the SB13PFC wants a vented box. About 13-14 liters should work well.
For the PFC did you use vented or closed box?
Sagi
Vented. Its T/S makes it better suitable for a vented box unless you use two per side. Even in something like 3l sealed it would reach its excursion limit with modest to loud listening levels. If supported by another woofer it can do, but alone won`t shake you at all.
If you put it in a large box of 14-15l you`d reach its excursion limit easily. I`d shoot for something like 8-9l with port tunned to 56-60Hz (a 47mm diameter port 100-105mm long should do).
Hi everyone,
Hope I am not hijacking this thread but I have a query.
This coaxial driver looks very interesting with mid-range woofer and tweeter built-into the mid woofer to give a coherence(Coincident) frequency response. Sagi and some others prefer to use an external tweeter eg Vifa, Dayton, etc for their better performance I presume.
I have in mind a project which uses the built-in tweeter my question is that has any one here had an experience with this tweeter and how it sounded.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Hope I am not hijacking this thread but I have a query.
This coaxial driver looks very interesting with mid-range woofer and tweeter built-into the mid woofer to give a coherence(Coincident) frequency response. Sagi and some others prefer to use an external tweeter eg Vifa, Dayton, etc for their better performance I presume.
I have in mind a project which uses the built-in tweeter my question is that has any one here had an experience with this tweeter and how it sounded.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
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