Thanks for the sites.I will start reading them now and post up what i come up with.If i have taken a while to reply its proberbly because I have been a work for 4.5 hours this morning.
Dont worry about not replying promptly because im not in a hurry to do this, i want to do it rite the first time & not rush it.
Thanks,
Jeroth
Dont worry about not replying promptly because im not in a hurry to do this, i want to do it rite the first time & not rush it.
Thanks,
Jeroth
?!?
I went onto that site which calculates component values, and, well, thats the problem, where do the components go and what other components connect to.
Is there a set design which you just change the component values for different speakers?
It also says
"first, second, and third order low pass, high pass, and band pass filters"
What do these mean.Does anyone know an article on the net that explains the basics of x-overs.
Jeroth
I went onto that site which calculates component values, and, well, thats the problem, where do the components go and what other components connect to.
Is there a set design which you just change the component values for different speakers?
It also says
"first, second, and third order low pass, high pass, and band pass filters"
What do these mean.Does anyone know an article on the net that explains the basics of x-overs.
Jeroth
http://home.iprimus.com.au/gradds/series_cross-oversKA.htm should explain a little more on the absolute basics of the use of an Xover, as for the differences of the types, it is complexity and the flattening of the frequency range or peaks of a driver. Dont concern yourself with all this as yet, yours will be a first order series so read up on that.
By The Way...
...just as a matter of interest, If you were to buy an amplifier that would be PERFECT for these speakers that I have chosen, how many WRMS would it be per channel. I dont want to know brand names just how many WRMS per channel would be PERFECT for these speakers?, in your opinion.
Jeroth
...just as a matter of interest, If you were to buy an amplifier that would be PERFECT for these speakers that I have chosen, how many WRMS would it be per channel. I dont want to know brand names just how many WRMS per channel would be PERFECT for these speakers?, in your opinion.
Jeroth
Re: By The Way...
What a leading question. You have to keep in mind that to a certain extent WRMS is a meaningless specification. Amps are rated into a resistive load, and speakers are NOT a resistive load. So you can have a case where a 20W amp will put out more real power than a 200W amp -- an actual case example was a trial we did with an NAD 3020 and a Carver Cube driving a set of Magnapan MG-1s (which are a pretty resistive load). The Carver clipped at lower volume levels that were less then those attained with the NAD. So i'd rather have a 20 W NAD than a 200 W Carver Cube, because the NAD puts out more power into a real load (and sounds better). Even better yet is the 15-20W NAIM NAIT. Although the same or less power than the NAD it puts out more power driving really ugly loads than the NAD (my Acoustat 2s for instance).
I hope these examples point out that you should be looking at the quality of the amp & the brands that build quality amps.
dave
Jeroth said:
What a leading question. You have to keep in mind that to a certain extent WRMS is a meaningless specification. Amps are rated into a resistive load, and speakers are NOT a resistive load. So you can have a case where a 20W amp will put out more real power than a 200W amp -- an actual case example was a trial we did with an NAD 3020 and a Carver Cube driving a set of Magnapan MG-1s (which are a pretty resistive load). The Carver clipped at lower volume levels that were less then those attained with the NAD. So i'd rather have a 20 W NAD than a 200 W Carver Cube, because the NAD puts out more power into a real load (and sounds better). Even better yet is the 15-20W NAIM NAIT. Although the same or less power than the NAD it puts out more power driving really ugly loads than the NAD (my Acoustat 2s for instance).
I hope these examples point out that you should be looking at the quality of the amp & the brands that build quality amps.
dave
Box Size
This is the box size that GlennME got for me off WinISD:
Using the WinISD calculations you end up with a box:
12.11 inches wide
18.48 inches high
07.78 inches deep
These are internal dimensions with a box made from MDF 3/4 inch thick.
The vent is a 2 inch tube 3.08 inches long, tuning the enclosure to 52.44 Hz.
Here are the metric values
307 mm wide
469 mm high
200 mm deep
MDF is 18-19 mm thick.
Vent is 51mm diameter and 79 mm long.
Then griff said that it was very tall and not very deep, how would I calculate how much to take of the height and how much to add on to the depth?
Is there a formula or something?
Jeroth
This is the box size that GlennME got for me off WinISD:
Using the WinISD calculations you end up with a box:
12.11 inches wide
18.48 inches high
07.78 inches deep
These are internal dimensions with a box made from MDF 3/4 inch thick.
The vent is a 2 inch tube 3.08 inches long, tuning the enclosure to 52.44 Hz.
Here are the metric values
307 mm wide
469 mm high
200 mm deep
MDF is 18-19 mm thick.
Vent is 51mm diameter and 79 mm long.
Then griff said that it was very tall and not very deep, how would I calculate how much to take of the height and how much to add on to the depth?
Is there a formula or something?
Jeroth
Ok
Thanks for that, I will post up the new dimensions as soon as I have decided on them.
BTW, what do you think is the best way to put the pieces ow wood together 4 the box, should I have all the corners beveled(cut at 45 deg angle) so that they all fit together perfectly, or should I just have the pieces cut normally?
What do you think is the best way?
Jeroth
Thanks for that, I will post up the new dimensions as soon as I have decided on them.
BTW, what do you think is the best way to put the pieces ow wood together 4 the box, should I have all the corners beveled(cut at 45 deg angle) so that they all fit together perfectly, or should I just have the pieces cut normally?
What do you think is the best way?
Jeroth
There is nothing wrong with just screwing and glewing in a project like this, if you use 25mm MDF, you can get away with virtually no internal bracing.
As for the joins, the image attached should give you an idea, be sure to pre drill the MDF, and use long flat head screws, at Bunnings you should be able to get the special MDF ones, say about 90mm long, 3 or 4 screws a side!
So get the pieces cut normally, dont forget about the extra cuts for the binding posts, port etc.
Try and keep the tweeter and woofer as close together as possible.
Its some people preference to round the edges of the front baffle, IMO its looks pretty terrible, and audibly the difference could only really be heard by a dreaded hardcore audiophile.
As for the joins, the image attached should give you an idea, be sure to pre drill the MDF, and use long flat head screws, at Bunnings you should be able to get the special MDF ones, say about 90mm long, 3 or 4 screws a side!
So get the pieces cut normally, dont forget about the extra cuts for the binding posts, port etc.
Try and keep the tweeter and woofer as close together as possible.
Its some people preference to round the edges of the front baffle, IMO its looks pretty terrible, and audibly the difference could only really be heard by a dreaded hardcore audiophile.
Attachments
Thanks for the diagram, I would just like to know if its better to get the pieces Beveled on the edges and then glue the pieces together, because I can have it done at the cutshop at Bunnings.
So is the way in the diagram better or is it better to have the edges bevel cut?
BTW, you said that I should make the speaker cabinet deeper and not as high, what would you suggest?
Thanks,
Jeroth
So is the way in the diagram better or is it better to have the edges bevel cut?
BTW, you said that I should make the speaker cabinet deeper and not as high, what would you suggest?
Thanks,
Jeroth
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