speaker selection switch question

I need a speaker selection switch and have read many posts. Most recommend niles, russounds and adcom, becuase they have components that protect amps and speakers. I don't understand why I need that protection. It seems that, since just a pair of wires are used to connect an amp directly to a pair of speakers, it seems only a simple switch, with two wires from amp and wires from two sets of speakers would be needed to connect to a switch. I don't want volume control. What am I misiing?

Thanks
 
I've decided to make a simple switch that will allow either speakers A or B but not both. It will use a 4dpt 12 pin off-on-off toggle switch with brass lugs connected to binding posts.
 

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The reason for the switch is I want to connect the B&W N803 speakers to an amplifier in another room, with a pair of B&W P6 speakers, The N803s are now powered by an Aragon 8008BB, in excellent condition, that I plan to sell. Corrected switch sketch is attached.
 

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A question about connecting speaker wire. I have 12awg XLO bi-wire connections at the B&W N803s and would like to keep them connected to the speakers and connect the other ends to wires coming from the amp in the other room. I could solder them together and cover with shrink wrap or connect them using a copper binding lug that would accept the wires from the remote amp and the XLO wires from the speakers. what would be the best?
 
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I have used something similar to this but I modified it to use quality metal thin film load resistors inside for the unused side. They use white cement filled resistors to supply a nominal 200ohm load on unused channels to prevent damage to some amps as they don’t like to drive no-load (open condition).

1713960519259.jpeg

The above is no longer available but something similar appears to be this:
https://a.co/d/fhb94vR

I use premade 12ga high strand count speaker cables with banana plugs. I know the 12ga makes a difference with reducing the amp output impedance to as low a value as possible for good bass response.

https://a.co/d/cuEg484
 
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If you will switch tube amp outputs you need make(connect)-before-you-break (disconnect) switches so output is never ever unloaded, even for a fraction of a second, because that is BAD for tubes, sockets and OTs.

Such switches are typically rotary and contact is wider than needed so when halfway it is simultaneously connected to the contact it's leaving and the new one it's reaching.

The halved impedance seen by amp is not damaging for that fraction of a second while sparks might fly if contact were contacting none.

No big deal for SS amps but the idea comes from the 50s or so.
If pushbuttons same thing, sliding contact is somewhat wider than needed.

IF you turn volume down to zero before switching no problem happens but good Engineering includes making "idiot proof" products if at all possible.
And even so ..... 🙄
 
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So, I need to buy wire to connect the 4dpt 12 pin to the binding posts. I can get Mil Spec SPC wire with PTFE insulation or OFC wire with PVC or Nylon insulation for about the same price. What would be best?
Use high strand count 14ga silicone insulation wire designed for RC drone batteries. Capable of 100A current. Super flexible and heat resistant. You could use 12ga but probably not needed for the short length here. Lots of similar stuff but looks like this.

https://a.co/d/b9mlWzA

For connection to relay or switch, direct solder is probably best. Use shrink tube for strain reduction. If you want to be able to replace relay, maybe connectors are blade Faston style. Use of crimped connectors works well too if crimp is properly done to make cold welded copper to connector.