Have still been wrestling with this, will probably end up setting the router up and adding some test curves to these. Based on some of the dimensions given for curvy chang will probably try two, one at the 15" depth originally given by ron, second at 7 1/4". (Or ?????)
Will have to clear some space on the bench for a pivot this long!
Would still appreciate some feedback with respect to the "combining" aspect of the curve. Or on a similar train of thought, why does this work better than two curved mouths (think A126) at the top and bottom of the saburo?
Enjoying the journey.
Will have to clear some space on the bench for a pivot this long!
Would still appreciate some feedback with respect to the "combining" aspect of the curve. Or on a similar train of thought, why does this work better than two curved mouths (think A126) at the top and bottom of the saburo?
Enjoying the journey.
The focusing is a difference rather than an increase in performance per se.
I junked the idea long ago for this cab. To gain the necessary baffle-support, you have to make the side extensions either side of the driver extremely deep -so deep that you get a cavity resonance (standing waves) between them, which is the last thing you want rippling through the midband. Bad idea.
I junked the idea long ago for this cab. To gain the necessary baffle-support, you have to make the side extensions either side of the driver extremely deep -so deep that you get a cavity resonance (standing waves) between them, which is the last thing you want rippling through the midband. Bad idea.
Shadow Sub...
Gents,
Could the Tang Band sub ref. here: www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-832
be considered a substitute for the recomended driver?
could it be used with a change of the vent size/length?
It's about 1/2 the cost of the CSS SDX7, and by accounts I've seen has quite acceptable performance.
Just curious.
John
Gents,
Could the Tang Band sub ref. here: www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-832
be considered a substitute for the recomended driver?
could it be used with a change of the vent size/length?
It's about 1/2 the cost of the CSS SDX7, and by accounts I've seen has quite acceptable performance.
Just curious.
John
Mark Audio Alpair 10 BVR
I built a pair of the Jaguar Alpair enclosures of baltic birch, and they are not working as I would expect them to. Previously, I built a pair of mlqwtl of double mdf and they work extremely well. Adding the second layer of mdf made a noticable improvement
The BVR's have substantial high frequency output in the mid range from the vents. Sounds like harmonics in the soprano vocals. I added some poly stuffing, which tamed it a bit, but now it sounds congested.
I'm driving these with a pair of pp kt88 amplifiers. The speakers are a few feet from the side walls and ten feet from my listening position.
Any input appreciated.
thanks
Les
I built a pair of the Jaguar Alpair enclosures of baltic birch, and they are not working as I would expect them to. Previously, I built a pair of mlqwtl of double mdf and they work extremely well. Adding the second layer of mdf made a noticable improvement
The BVR's have substantial high frequency output in the mid range from the vents. Sounds like harmonics in the soprano vocals. I added some poly stuffing, which tamed it a bit, but now it sounds congested.
I'm driving these with a pair of pp kt88 amplifiers. The speakers are a few feet from the side walls and ten feet from my listening position.
Any input appreciated.
thanks
Les
Mark Audio Alpair 10 BVR
I believe I found the problem: resonance in the walls of the chamber. I used a brace, vertically from front to back. the side walls, even of 3/4 baltic birch were ringing like bells.
As an experiment, I clamped 3/4" plywood boards diagonally to the sides. the problem went away even with the stuffing completely removed.
I believe I found the problem: resonance in the walls of the chamber. I used a brace, vertically from front to back. the side walls, even of 3/4 baltic birch were ringing like bells.
As an experiment, I clamped 3/4" plywood boards diagonally to the sides. the problem went away even with the stuffing completely removed.
Another Lotus in progress, I hope this is the right place to post, let me know if not. You can probably tell I'm a newb at this, I reckon a few more days and then a listen, looking forward to it, that's for sure. I'll be putting the baffle in, plywood is 18mm 13 ply hardwood marine ply of unknown type.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/birdy81260/Diningroomtable1.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/birdy81260/Diningroomtable1.jpg
Hi All,
Just built a Decware ZKit1 Single Ended Triode, 1.8wpc into 8ohms. Driving Sachikos with FE206En to astonishing volume levels. (Replaced a Charlize T-Amp).
The smile still hasn't left my face! I haven't bought so many new CDs for ages. There are so many ways to that audio nirvana - this does it for me. I hope the rest of you get so much pleasure.
Thanks again to all on this forum ...
Alan
Just built a Decware ZKit1 Single Ended Triode, 1.8wpc into 8ohms. Driving Sachikos with FE206En to astonishing volume levels. (Replaced a Charlize T-Amp).
The smile still hasn't left my face! I haven't bought so many new CDs for ages. There are so many ways to that audio nirvana - this does it for me. I hope the rest of you get so much pleasure.
Thanks again to all on this forum ...
Alan
Madison/Sachiko Improvements
I purchased my Madison speakers aka Sachiko from Jeff Carder of CarderSound, one year ago this July 2009. Since then I’ve been trying various improvements and/or tweaks in an effort to progressively extract every last bit of musical refinement from the Madison/ Sachiko speakers.
The latest improvement/tweak is the addition of the black panel on the front of the enclosure, please see photo below. The purpose of adding this panel was twofold ---{the panel now being used isn't a permanent one}--- first it was to expedite the exchange of different 8in full-range drivers in order to rapidly compare the sonic qualities of these differing drivers ---{because the panel isn't permanent it can be screwed into as a driver requires without worry of marring the cabinet}--- secondly was to test if it's addition would improve the cabinets sonics.
One Saturday I had two friends over that are also members of the SETriodes forum and Central Florida Audio Society. We compared a Fostex FE206E, FE206ES-R and a Lowther DX4 in the Madison with the panel installed. I should mention that both of the Fostex cones were treated with a little known process that's incredible in it's ability to ameliorate the problems single full range drivers with whizzers are noted for, without causing any tradeoffs in the areas these drivers excel at, whereas the Lowther driver was stock.
After careful listening we came to the conclusion that the installation of this front panel aided in increasing transparency & detail. It's certainly not a night & day improvement but for the cost of a couple pieces of wood and the time it takes to cut and mount them it's a worthwhile improvement. Best part is you can try it by mounting it to your front via some of the existing drivers mounting screws & then screwing your driver to the new front panel! If you don't like what you hear you can always easily remove it with no damage to your existing cabinet, no?
If anyone is interested in other improvements/tweaks I've tried don't hesitate to ask. I'm always happy to share what I've learned with other full range driver aficionados. One I'll be happy to share right now is lean your speakers backwards! If you'll look at the photo I provided I've done this with my speakers and doing so improved imaging & soundstaging quite dramatically. Strangely enough it also seemed to provide a better balance of all the frequencies as well! Heck you should at least try it. It costs absolutely nothing but a few moments of your time. Once I leaned my speakers backwards I could never go back to how they sound firing straight forward again...
PS: Photo was too large to attach. Send me an email at thetubeguy1954(at)yahoo(dot)com and I'll be happy to send some good pictures of the front panel and the speakers leaning.
Thetubeguy1954
I purchased my Madison speakers aka Sachiko from Jeff Carder of CarderSound, one year ago this July 2009. Since then I’ve been trying various improvements and/or tweaks in an effort to progressively extract every last bit of musical refinement from the Madison/ Sachiko speakers.
The latest improvement/tweak is the addition of the black panel on the front of the enclosure, please see photo below. The purpose of adding this panel was twofold ---{the panel now being used isn't a permanent one}--- first it was to expedite the exchange of different 8in full-range drivers in order to rapidly compare the sonic qualities of these differing drivers ---{because the panel isn't permanent it can be screwed into as a driver requires without worry of marring the cabinet}--- secondly was to test if it's addition would improve the cabinets sonics.
One Saturday I had two friends over that are also members of the SETriodes forum and Central Florida Audio Society. We compared a Fostex FE206E, FE206ES-R and a Lowther DX4 in the Madison with the panel installed. I should mention that both of the Fostex cones were treated with a little known process that's incredible in it's ability to ameliorate the problems single full range drivers with whizzers are noted for, without causing any tradeoffs in the areas these drivers excel at, whereas the Lowther driver was stock.
After careful listening we came to the conclusion that the installation of this front panel aided in increasing transparency & detail. It's certainly not a night & day improvement but for the cost of a couple pieces of wood and the time it takes to cut and mount them it's a worthwhile improvement. Best part is you can try it by mounting it to your front via some of the existing drivers mounting screws & then screwing your driver to the new front panel! If you don't like what you hear you can always easily remove it with no damage to your existing cabinet, no?
If anyone is interested in other improvements/tweaks I've tried don't hesitate to ask. I'm always happy to share what I've learned with other full range driver aficionados. One I'll be happy to share right now is lean your speakers backwards! If you'll look at the photo I provided I've done this with my speakers and doing so improved imaging & soundstaging quite dramatically. Strangely enough it also seemed to provide a better balance of all the frequencies as well! Heck you should at least try it. It costs absolutely nothing but a few moments of your time. Once I leaned my speakers backwards I could never go back to how they sound firing straight forward again...
PS: Photo was too large to attach. Send me an email at thetubeguy1954(at)yahoo(dot)com and I'll be happy to send some good pictures of the front panel and the speakers leaning.
Thetubeguy1954
Tyimo said:
Tyimo did you miss the end of my post? I stated PS: Photo was too large to attach. Send me an email at thetubeguy1954(at)yahoo(dot)com and I'll be happy to send some good pictures of the front panel and the speakers leaning.
I just sent it to Dave aka Planet 10 and he said he'll make it small enough and then post it. Thanks Dave!
Thetubeguy1954
