Soldering iron tip problem, help!

[fingerboy21]

Try to take a moderately damp sponge and rub the tip on it until you remove the oxide layer. If that doesn't work; use light sand paper. You should be able to draw the solder to the tip after that. Remember to tin the tip every time you're done using your iron. This protects it while it's cold. I suggest using 60/40 or 50/50.

 

[richie00boy]

I gave my Weller some assist with a propane torch, never worked again.
Got the ground strap soldered to the shield, but that was the last time.
You know, one of them huge copper bands around a 10lb transformer.

Iron + heat gun = generally safe, have done this many times.
Iron + propane = dead iron, take my word, don't try.

Tip is fine, fried something inside, maybe a thermocouple?
I'm not sure exactly how the temperature was regulated?
Stump dead now...

If it is the TCP type iron that is commonly used in industry here in the UK, temperature is controlled by a bimetallic switch inside the iron, not expensive or hard to replace. I've replaced mine once in 20 years of use.

 

[DualTriode]

Hello,
As taught to me and as I now teach others.
Clean the tip down to bare shiny metal. Stick the clean cold tip into an old school tin of paste flux, for stubborn tips use muriatic acid (swimming pool acid). Turn on the “iron” keep the tip wet with flux. The flux prevents or in the case of aggressive / activated flux removes oxidization as the iron heats. Apply the solder to the tip as the iron heats to the melting temperature of the solder.
The Eutectic Alloys sales guy will show you how to solder a paper clip with a match if you use his flux and solder.
It is not magic it is all about the oxidation. My guess is that the new tip you installed is oxidized before it is hot enough to melt the solder. This is made worse by the higher melting temperature of the new “earth friendly” solder you are using.
DT
All just for fun!