Soldering equipment recommendations?

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I can certainly appreciate Nelson Pass's suggestion, and it absolutely makes sense.
I appreciate EVERYONE'S suggestions, they all have been tremendously helpful. :cool:
This thread exists because I don't know what to look for, and I'm certainly getting the feeling it is more of a taste-based thing than objective features, from everyone's comments.

Mr. Pass's suggestion is interesting, in that I was at Home Depot the other day, and I noticed they had some orange-handled Weller pencil-irons, for under $20/each. One 25w, one 40w.
I could certainly go that route, and only spend $40.

Or, I could buy the $40 Solomon SR-976N, as vsr123 was pleased with, which is adjustable, has replacement ceramic heating elements, and replacement tips available, and it looks like it heats up in 30 seconds. I'd effectively also have a 25w iron, and a 40w iron..
...and a 30w, and 35w... etc. ;)

Or of course, I get the dealer discount at Parts Express... so I could buy the Weller WLC-100 for only about $45, and it also has replacement tips available, and the 0-40w adjustability of the above station.

At this point, I'm getting the feeling that any of these options would be fine for me, to start out and get my feet wet.

I'm leaning a bit towards one of the two adjustable stations, because at least I'd always be dealing with one iron, which might be important as I learn "the feel" of the iron. :cool:

Does anyone have any idea of the heat-up time for the Weller WLC-100? It's not in it's owners' manual, other than to say "wait 1 minute". Seem accurate?
The Solomon soldering iron with the ceramic heating element touts about a 30 second heat time, which seems fast. I don't know what sort of heating element the Weller has... is ceramic desirable, as the SR-976N brags?

On the down side, I've never heard of Solomon (they don't even list the brand name on that site!)... I've definitely heard of Weller.

Would you opt for the no-name station with impressive heat-up speed and a ceramic element?
Or the Weller for it's well established brand name, but knowingly lowest model?
 
hahaha...
Absolutely. :D

I really am more wondering about that "ceramic heating element" feature, and what that might affect.

The tip geometry also seems...better?
The Weller comes stock with a 1/8" screwdriver tip.
That Solomon comes with a pointy cone that seems pretty fine, maybe easier to work with.

Here's one area I sure don't know what I'm talking about though! :dead:

If a ceramic heating element makes no difference in actual performance (in concept... I'm aware probably no one has so much as even seen a picture of this thing before), AND if the 1/8" screwdriver tip is a handy thing rather than a detriment (vs. the pointy cone), then I'll go with the Weller by default...
It's a brand name that I've heard of, and Parts Express is fantastic to deal with. :cool:

But on the other hand, if the pointy-cone makes more sense, or the ceramic element is a real desirable thing, then I wouldn't feel too bad taking a chance on this unknown model and website, the price is sure right...

Hence my conundrum. :scratch:
 
Charles,
Depends on the tip design. I've got several on hand. Some are definitely thinner, some are thicker. I like the idea of squeezing the wire, but I'm not sure how practical it would be, given that the homebrew ends get eaten away at the tips fairly quickly. Decreasing the amount of copper there will decrease the life span even further.
On the other hand, they're practically free since I've got a pile of wire that I rescued from beside the road. I can afford to try your suggestion and see how much it decreases the life of the tip. Either way, it beats spending several dollars for a pair of real ones.
I rarely need to put 100/140W on something, but every once in a blue moon it comes in handy.

Grey
 
Well, The thing I like about the screwdriver tip is that you can place a larger surface area against the pin you're soldering, so the heat transfers more quickly. I consider it to be the better for general-purpose jobs. But a couple extra tips of different types might be a good additional investment. I would definitely recomend the weller.
 
I never really noticed the start up on the WCC100. I'd turn it on fuss with something else for a moment, and it was ready to go.

Within 5 bucks of Nelson's suggestion and gives you a good wattage range. 40 watts can be a bit slim when heating big power supply parts.

Weller does make pencils w/out base stations for less money too. I’ve got one in my portable tools for quick unexpected stuff. Takes about 5 min to come up to full temp. No big deal.
 
tpenguin said:
Well, The thing I like about the screwdriver tip is that you can place a larger surface area against the pin you're soldering, so the heat transfers more quickly.
That makes a lot of sense.
I was actually thinking the pointy-tip would be better for this same reason, ironically... but it makes sense that I'd want what you say, particularly since either of these irons only goes up to 40w at any rate.

I actually need to order a few odd goodies from Parts Express anyway... some LED's, ring terminals, banana jacks... nickel and dime stuff... stuff I wasn't going to make a separate order for anyway.

I think I'm just going to order that 40w adjustable Weller station then, unless there's a sudden convincing rallying cry in support of the Solomon station? :up:
 
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One more option is to buy used. You can get lots of high quality equipment thats been used but still has considerable useful life for the DIYer. The obvious place to start is ebay, but as many of us know, it has its risks. Another alternative for soldering equipment is a site that I found from another thread on this forum.

http://www.eaesales.com/

I have no business relationship with them other than having bought some soldering iron tips for my Metcal station and a small OKI fume fan. The parts were used but in good shape. They definitely don't look new but the price is right. He seems to be selling used versions of the Weller WCTP soldering station for $40, which is a great price. If you're willing to accept the cosmetics associated with a used piece, you'll get a better iron than you're discussing above.

---Gary
 
Absolutely, this is a great lead, thanks! :cool:

I haven't got any problem investing in a tool - if I'm going to be using it.

If I picked something up used, and used it so much I did "wear it out" - that's a sign that I should invest in a new one.
But right now, I need something that'll let me learn what my likes and dislikes are, so when that new-tool purchase time comes, it'll be self-evident.

But there's no doubt, the better tool that I have to start with, the better off I'll be...
I'd rather take "better, but used" anyday, over "worse, but new", when the prices are the same. :nod:
 
Da5id4Vz said:

Weller does make pencils w/out base stations for less money too. I’ve got one in my portable tools for quick unexpected stuff. Takes about 5 min to come up to full temp. No big deal.


My father have been (and still is) using those for professional use, running 8 hours a day. They make just as good joints, just a bit akward when soldering something its not meant for. Some of the irons my father has, are older than I am(28).

Magura:)
 
Just a tip for those occasional burns you might get from picking up the wrong end of your soldering iron.

I use the old white silicon thermal grease on my burns and it removes the heat so well, I never get a water blister. The sooner you apply it, the better. Also, after you apply the grease, the burning pain will increase for about 1 minute, depending on the magnitude of the burn. However, after about 5 minutes you can remove the grease and the pain should diminish.

Now, as far as toxins absorbed into your system through your skin, I don't know.

Weller is hot!
 
A simple way to make a dual purpose/heat soldering iron: Using a small project box (I used a small black plastic box), install a small toggle switch. Inside, put a 1-amp rectifier in series with one line cord lead and connect the switch across the rectifier. With the switch open you get 1/2 the power to the iron. I use a 40-watt Weller (the cheap one) so that with 40 watts I can provide high heat and with the switch open, I have 20 watts, which is adequate heat for the small stuff. I believe the original tip on this 40-watt Weller lasted about 10 years before I broke it being too aggressive.

Anyone that has never burned their self soldering, must be the same one that said they have never spanked their monkey!
 
Radio Shack Station

Please don't beat me up too badly, but I bought the adjustable RatShack 64-2185 station. The cord is too stiff, the pen handle sucks, etc. I can fix that stuff, but what really bothers me is the fact that if you turn it off for more than a few minutes, the temp resets to 350F or so and then you gotta scroll the temp back up to a usable value. My guess is that there is a cap in there that keeps the set temp in memory until the cap bleeds off. Has anyone modified one of these? Anyone have a schematic or svc manual? Anyone know who makes the thing for RS? Thanks!
 
I've used a variety of cheapo iron's during my youth, but the last iron I bought was an Antex C. It's had a crapload of use, and has only had to have the element replaced once (although to do so requires - a soldering iron!)

I've used other Antex irons too, even one of the very expensive temperature controlled ones. They are lovely, and I would highly recommend them.

As for cheap temperature control, just get a light dimmer and wire it up to the iron. Works well enough :)
 
Brian - was your suggestion about using a variac to replace a cheap temp control directed at my complaint about the RShack unit? That's a pretty good idea, but I was hoping to replace the cap or whatever maintains the setpoint memory for 5 min. or so with a battery or bigger cap that might provide a few hours memory. It is tempting, though, to just remove all that digital crap and put a pot and some sort of temp regulator in there.
 
With a RS iron, I don,t know. Look inside and try to figure out if there is any type of feedback to stabilize temp or if it's just an over glorrified dimmer. If it's just a dimmer circut, gut it if it looks easyer. If it does use some sort of temp feedback to regulate to a temp, I would maybe add a switch to cut power to the haeting element and leave the electronics on.

We are fortunate to have EBay in the states. I bought a huge (1800 VA or something like that) for around $40. I used it to start my van one morning after leaving the lights on. I also got a mid 80's model 20 mhz BK scope of $45 in perfect shape.
 
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