Congrats Peter, Love the pre also.
I also wanted to have the power cord come in next to the transformer and the inputs and outputs next to the output devices. My solution is to put them both on one long side of the amp. That way the other long side is clean with no cords, and is then the front of the amp. I'm not sure the copper bar shields magnetically though I'm sure it works fine. Need some of that Mu metal! The bottom square bar might look cool as a cylinder- but a bit harder to drill and what would the sound effect be? I don't know.
I hope I'm not being irritating, these are just little ideas about a great product!
I also wanted to have the power cord come in next to the transformer and the inputs and outputs next to the output devices. My solution is to put them both on one long side of the amp. That way the other long side is clean with no cords, and is then the front of the amp. I'm not sure the copper bar shields magnetically though I'm sure it works fine. Need some of that Mu metal! The bottom square bar might look cool as a cylinder- but a bit harder to drill and what would the sound effect be? I don't know.
I hope I'm not being irritating, these are just little ideas about a great product!
I was actually thinking about triangular bar with a top milled out (where the chassis sits). It may look good and work well.
People are always concern with the way were cables should go, but this type of amp is so small that conventional approaches don't really need to apply. Especially, since those are monoblocks, amps should stand closer to speakers and then it's better to have interconnects and speaker wires separated from power cables.
If I would choose the longer side for connectors, it would have to be either on top of the amp (and wouldn't look good) or amp would have to be positioned horizontally and then I couldn't use the copper bar the way it's used here. And I consider the use of one spike to support that part of the chassis as key element of the hole design.
People are always concern with the way were cables should go, but this type of amp is so small that conventional approaches don't really need to apply. Especially, since those are monoblocks, amps should stand closer to speakers and then it's better to have interconnects and speaker wires separated from power cables.
If I would choose the longer side for connectors, it would have to be either on top of the amp (and wouldn't look good) or amp would have to be positioned horizontally and then I couldn't use the copper bar the way it's used here. And I consider the use of one spike to support that part of the chassis as key element of the hole design.
Peter Daniel said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this a negative aspect of the amp? In my opinion the circuit has to be as much independable of roomproperties as possible, so changes in positioning, air temperature, humidity will not affect the performance. (ideal world) Else customers can be diappointed because they can't get maximum performance out of it.
i think one of the reasons why you have succes using this kind of preamp design, is that it "band width limits" the poweramps - because of its own band limit, arround 100k i guess, it won't let anything into the poweramps over that limit - and they like it.....joe rasmussen talkes about this on his own site.......2 cents.
happy new year.
happy new year.
That would be very unfair to say it is a negative aspect! Whatever you place a decent bit of hi-fi on affects the sound. Just as the type of room does, the type of interconnects and the type of speakers.
It is impossible to make a piece of hi-fi that is not in some way dependent on what is is used with.
If you have pa piece of hi-fi and place it on different surfaces, eg granite, wood, a mouse mat even, and don't notice any difference, then your hi-fi is not good enough to resolve the smaller details found in music!
Happy New Year!
Congratulations Peter.
However as reviews go I did not think it very appropriate.The "reference" amp was only a small entry level integrated.Ok, the amp-2 may not be that expensive but (like the gaincard) is touted to be a giant killer so where are the Classe or Bryston monoblocks (just to make this an all canadian shoot -out) or other hi-end amp to compare with?
I did not think they were punching their weight here.
Congratulations Peter.
However as reviews go I did not think it very appropriate.The "reference" amp was only a small entry level integrated.Ok, the amp-2 may not be that expensive but (like the gaincard) is touted to be a giant killer so where are the Classe or Bryston monoblocks (just to make this an all canadian shoot -out) or other hi-end amp to compare with?
I did not think they were punching their weight here.
Nuuk said:
Or maybe your ears aren't sensitive enough to tell the difference (in which case some would consider you lucky - you don't have to spend lots for best sounding system to you .. of course, you'd be unlucky because you wouldn't be able to appreciate certain things)
Great job Peter, congrats. I'm always glad to see talent and knowledge recognized (that's why it hurts me to watch music stations these days, or tv in general)
Question about the cork cheeks.
Peter,
I was just wondering about how you fixed the cork cheeks to the amp without streesing the cork; also, are they strong/thick enough to support the plitron transformers?
Also, have you considered using really low mass cable connectors in a bid to avoid further EM contamination of the signal?
Justin.
Peter,
I was just wondering about how you fixed the cork cheeks to the amp without streesing the cork; also, are they strong/thick enough to support the plitron transformers?
Also, have you considered using really low mass cable connectors in a bid to avoid further EM contamination of the signal?
Justin.
Cork panels are about 11mm thick and softer than MDF (pretty nice feel actually). If you make them slightly bigger, the aluminum panels will squeeze them nicely and set in place. The transformers are locked in vertical plane by rubber pads and there is not much play horizontally. For additional reinforcement, one might use velcro strips to hold it better and allow easy disassembling without showing screws on the outside.
I didn't check any low mass cable connectors yet, but it's definitely worth an investigating.
I didn't check any low mass cable connectors yet, but it's definitely worth an investigating.
Daft question or what?
Everybody is going to say 'this one'!I built the one shown on thisDecibel Dungeon page which works very well.
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