Small single driver speaker suggestion (and power rating question)

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morbo said:
You might do a push-push dipole with the Aurasound, and roll off the rear driver to provide baffle step correction. This would give you a nice output boost as well. Just a thought.
Wiring them in parallel would squeeze more juice from the T-amp as well as increasing power handling for HT use. 'Course you'd need a bigger box, then.

I've always wondered, though - if you roll the back-firing woofer off with a low-pass filter, will there be problems with phase relative to the front-firing driver? I seem to recall most passive filters introduce some phase shift.
 
Yeah, this is where the terms get confusing. The Omega is the closest I've seen to what we're discussing although it's still two separate enclosures back-to-back. It seems that, if manufacturers are willing to build systems like that why wouldn't they go ahead and use a second LF driver in the rear for BSC?
 
I know it's not the favorite design here, but just for comparison, here's one of the cabinet I just finished for my TangBand W4-1052sa's. Just under 7 liters, a 65 hz f3, and 88 db efficient. Thermal power handling is 40 watts. There's a prefilter in there per MarkMck's design which flattens the upper mids and extends response to around 17k.

Xmax is 3.4mm on this driver compared to the Aura's 5mm, but larger cone gives the TB an advantage in swept volume. With the little t-amp in my office, these can get obnoxiously loud!
 

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Oh, and here's a shot I took before the front baffle went on. I know I went nuts with the port diameter (2"), hey, nothing exceeds like excess! I also figured it would help with standing waves in the box because it presents a round cross section between the parallel walls.
 

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I think I am going to order a NS3-193, plop it in an a box lying around and just see how it sounds in my room for its sensitivity/spl. Based on that 'test' I will decide whether I want to go with it or the MB27.
Another very likely possibility is custom designing using the GR Research M-130 and the Seas 27TDFC - same as the MB27 except a slightly different tweeter.
 
Ok here goes...what I am going to say next could be simply phsycological or it could be only because of the specific speakers that I heard, but feel free to laugh upon and ignore it entirely as I am not completely sure either....


I haven't specifically checked the aurasound yet but I have been listening to a few "commercial" speakers using from 4" to 6.5" drivers to get the feel of the sound of the size of the driver and I am beginning to think that the sound from a larger driver (6-6.5") is more open, more filling, more complete and bigger, full bodied kind of sound. The smaller driver speakers sounded, well...small...I cant explain but kinda like thin, narrow compressed kind of sound with no body. It just wasnt there.

I also felt that it did not depend on the size of the whole speaker as such. I got the same impression from a larger floor speaker using 4.5" drivers as well as the bookshelf using a 4.5" driver - minus the low end extension ofcourse.

so...I dont know.. I think I am slowly drifting towards the 6" range drivers. I know, quite contrary to what the thread started off in the first place...but thats what my ears are telling me. Maybe satellites are not for me. Anybody else share the same experiences as myself or you think I am just "hearing things" :) ?
 
Certainly there is some merit to what you're saying, however, that comparison has some serious limits. I will take a quality 3 or 4 inch driver over a mediocre 6" any day. Now, if your comparing like for like the benefit of the larger cone diameter is it's ability to move more air so if you want lower FR it will give it to you, generally at the expense of high FR. Are your comparisons of full range drivers or of multi-way systems? In comparing the CSS WR125S to the Adire Extremis 6.8 (both using XBL^2 motors) the Extremis produces the sound I think you're describing but the Extremis needs a tweeter brought in much earlier than the WR125S and can't begin to be used as a full-range driver.
 
those were 2-way(bookshelf) and multi-way(floor) speakers - none of them were fullrange(single driver).

I mostly compared within the same brand and within the same product line/series so I'd imagine the quality of drivers would remain pretty much constant between different speaker systems.
 
I had to go back and re-read your original post as I had forgotten your original goals. Building something for HT first and music second can be much different than building for music first and HT second. IMHO, if you build for music HT is no problem. I've found it difficult to successfully blend subwoofers into a music system and get the results I want. I much prefer to get the mains to produce the bass for me or at the very least bring the sub in so low that you can't tell it's playing. For full sound without a sub you'll need something that can move some air. My T-line with dual WR125ST does a pretty good job. To get lower you'll need a larger cone so a 6" is probably the next step. Someone mentioned dynamics in HT sound which is true. It takes a pretty stout driver most of the time to handle it. I've designed a bookshelf using the WR125S and also a T-line using the WR125ST. Very nice for music but even more impressive in multi-channel use. For a 4.5" driver they can pump out some serious SPLs when crossed to a sub at 80Hz. I can't think of a 3" driver that can do this. Now, if you really want to make your ears bleed then you have to move on to a more mainstream multi-way system. I recently completed a two-way with the Extremis 6.8 and a Morel tweeter that is impressive. I've heard Dan Ws dual Extremis and Peerless tweeter combo too. Lots of wow factor there. I guess you need to decide if a full-range driver is going to give you what you want. I did an all Fostex HT which worked pretty well also but it consisted of 6" and 8" drivers.
 
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