purplepeople said:If you're in a dorm, I suggest a huge transmission line that's hung from the ceiling. If I were one of your typical classmates, I'd be way more impressed with that. "Omigod... that thing is huge!"
ensen.
I second the TL idea, 8' of concrete form tube and an mdf end, couldn't be simpler
back to the box idea
If you like the idea of having lots of woofers how about a cube with 2 push-pull Dayton DVC 8" opposing one another and 2 matching Dayton 8" Passive Radiators opposing one another. You would have great efficiency, the size and look you are going for, and they are cheap (23$ per woofer, $14.20 per PR)! I have this setup in a 15" cube powered by a cheapo 120w goodwill reciever and it sounds really amazing for its price and size.
If you like the idea of having lots of woofers how about a cube with 2 push-pull Dayton DVC 8" opposing one another and 2 matching Dayton 8" Passive Radiators opposing one another. You would have great efficiency, the size and look you are going for, and they are cheap (23$ per woofer, $14.20 per PR)! I have this setup in a 15" cube powered by a cheapo 120w goodwill reciever and it sounds really amazing for its price and size.
Dave's site is one of the best. Especially this project: http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/steve/index.html
ensen.
ensen.he coudl also use one of those tangband high excursion 8s, those are soo cool. im relaly tempted to make some active stereo subwoofers to go with my energys out of those, btu i knwo i dont really need em.
but yeah two of those tangband 8s with 4 prs and youd have woofs on all sides! jsut make sure the active drivers are on top and bottom of the cube.
but yeah two of those tangband 8s with 4 prs and youd have woofs on all sides! jsut make sure the active drivers are on top and bottom of the cube.
How about one of these in either a half or full wavelength TL?
Tang Band 6.5" Sub
However, please don't ask me about how to design one as I have no clue when it comes to TLs. This is one sub design I still have yet to venture into.
Tang Band 6.5" Sub
However, please don't ask me about how to design one as I have no clue when it comes to TLs. This is one sub design I still have yet to venture into.
speaker said:
Speaker, I'm using the wrong term, sorry.
planet10 said:
In theory I agree but I wonder. When you factor the room into it, aren't you asking for trouble if you have woofers firing everywhere, especially as the frequency goes up?
My one experiment with a cube did not go well and I have not gone down that road again. In my mind, it doesn't make sense.
I have not experienced any problems personally with phase cancellation using opposing woofers. But I should also mentioned that the sub is crossed at 100 Hz, so I do not know if it would present problems at higher frequencies. I recall reading somewhere that placing woofers on opposite sides reduces box resonance because the motion of opposing cones cancel one another. The same is true for passive radiators opposing one another. Many plate subs offer phase adjustment which could possible correct potential phase problems.
If the backwave of the woofers' drivers is trapped, which would occur with your suggested design, then there would be no problem with sound cancellation.
We should really rely on what we have learned applying dipoles or horns which have certain characteristics that are desirable when reproducing sound.
You generally don't want drivers on the sides of boxes because they will direct the sound towards the side walls and add to early reflections from the side walls. When the sound is bouncing off the side walls and reaching your ear within a short period of time after the direct sound reach your ear, it sounds distorted. This is true of higher frequencies and may not be a problem for your box if you are truly using this as a subwoofer. Reflections against the back wall is not so much a problem if the box is at least 5 feet from the back wall. Again, this is all true of the frequencies above some threshold that also depends on the size of the room.
Directing the woofers in different directions may help or hurt the production of room nodes, which is another concern. Usually having the bass created from different sources helps to reduce room nodes, but I doubt that if the sources are coming from the same box that it would make enough of a difference.
Retsel
We should really rely on what we have learned applying dipoles or horns which have certain characteristics that are desirable when reproducing sound.
You generally don't want drivers on the sides of boxes because they will direct the sound towards the side walls and add to early reflections from the side walls. When the sound is bouncing off the side walls and reaching your ear within a short period of time after the direct sound reach your ear, it sounds distorted. This is true of higher frequencies and may not be a problem for your box if you are truly using this as a subwoofer. Reflections against the back wall is not so much a problem if the box is at least 5 feet from the back wall. Again, this is all true of the frequencies above some threshold that also depends on the size of the room.
Directing the woofers in different directions may help or hurt the production of room nodes, which is another concern. Usually having the bass created from different sources helps to reduce room nodes, but I doubt that if the sources are coming from the same box that it would make enough of a difference.
Retsel
I have decided to sell every piece of audio gear I own.
Nah just playin, I have an Infinity reference 1032w i just got, my third one. The other two are in a Decware Wicked one in my car, best car sub I have ever heard.
So I plan on doing a small sealed enclosure for the Infinity or a ported enclosure that fits under the bed and fires upward into the bed.
I am building prototypes soon, and will decide then. I also have a Decware "Death Box" I built I am going to try, i have a feeling it will win, but by how much will determine if I can spare the space for it.
My real focus is on the DIY Parthenon. I am prolly going to be attempting a mimicked design using some cheaper components and construction for the Parthenon. Hopefully using my Student or Educational discount for some stuff.
If I hadn't gotten the free Infinity, I would prolly be building a 4 sided cube with some 8 inchers, or maybe two satelite subs witht he apex jr. 8 incher.
Nah just playin, I have an Infinity reference 1032w i just got, my third one. The other two are in a Decware Wicked one in my car, best car sub I have ever heard.
So I plan on doing a small sealed enclosure for the Infinity or a ported enclosure that fits under the bed and fires upward into the bed.
I am building prototypes soon, and will decide then. I also have a Decware "Death Box" I built I am going to try, i have a feeling it will win, but by how much will determine if I can spare the space for it.
My real focus is on the DIY Parthenon. I am prolly going to be attempting a mimicked design using some cheaper components and construction for the Parthenon. Hopefully using my Student or Educational discount for some stuff.
If I hadn't gotten the free Infinity, I would prolly be building a 4 sided cube with some 8 inchers, or maybe two satelite subs witht he apex jr. 8 incher.
upward firing into the bed rules, just make sure the port is firing up too. but yeah i did that once with two cheap, high fs 10s with low power (50w each) and a tiny box (2 cu ft for two tens ported!) but yeah it actually shook the bed like crazy when youre watching videos, the entire matress vibrates to explosions.
so i can speak from experience and say, go for it.
so i can speak from experience and say, go for it.
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