I use an Anglepoise lamp, a classic British design desktop lamp, at the full 240v and using a traditional incandescent bulb. I haven't noticed any issues and it works perfectly for my needs.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anglepoise-Original-Table-Bright-chrome/dp/B004T9ZMHO
I didn't pay this much for mine. I'm not saying "buy this exact lamp" but more that using an AC transformerless traditional lamp with an incandescent bulb is not a bad idea, as it's fairly low EMI/ RFI.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anglepoise-Original-Table-Bright-chrome/dp/B004T9ZMHO
I didn't pay this much for mine. I'm not saying "buy this exact lamp" but more that using an AC transformerless traditional lamp with an incandescent bulb is not a bad idea, as it's fairly low EMI/ RFI.
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Had 5534 2 stage with passive RIAA for many years when I was doing solid state. Very effective. Had original Signetics and synergistically sounding caps and resistors. Best I have heard is my mate's Steve Bench modded 12AY7 parallel & ECC88 cascoded. I just have 2SK170BL left overs from my recent DC coupled Pass B1 version and I am monkeying around a bit.
The LM4562NA is a great choice for an RIAA phono pre. Try an A/B comparison between a 5534 and 4562 and your ears will open right up.
I got a fairly cherry picked collection of op amps around including that 4562 guy also. Its better than the 5534 indeed. I preferred the LT1028 on MM a bit better though. The open loop discrete JFET or tube approach have another kind of charm still.
There is something special about the LM4562, but you make a good point. The LT1028/LT1118 are excellent high quality op amps and both very much acceptable in phono preamps.
That post is very old, it was before the simplistic started fledgling so don't be so hopeful to unseat your FSP with a modified S. Bench because meantime the Itch unseated the S.B. and so on and so forth.
Anyway I have in mind to revisit the valves phono route sometime since I got a wonder box of various interesting Eastern European matched types that Stajo kindly provided me at a point in the past. As a teaser to keep me curious...That crafty Viking
Whatever vacuum competent enough to weigh against FSP will most likely be way more involved and expensive to build though. Such things to come out good demand inspiration and much R&D work when no other asides are running nonetheless.
Pandora's box had the evil forces of Zeus against the humans because they snatched fire or had tricked him by leaving the bones under a fat layer to tempt him pledge in what to select while keeping the meat for themselves in a sacrifices negotiation. Prometheus consulted them to it. Zeus created her dazzling and sent her over along with the box. Prometheus's brother fell for Pandora and married her. After she curiously opened it all bads flew out to haunt humans forever and only hope remained inside for us before she put the lid back on. It was a jar in the original myth.
Thus I hope your box has only good electrons inside but I keep it shut in case they fall out meantime.
Thus I hope your box has only good electrons inside but I keep it shut in case they fall out meantime.
They also provide reservoir emptying safety against violent discharge for the FSP local regulator's input MOSFET when disconnecting and reconnecting the umbilical between boxes as well as some minimum load so the raw voltage level isn't initially overshooting.
Thanks for the explaining.
I will be adding a second capacitor close to the psu input on the fsp with some resistance before it to form a low pass filter.
So I will have C- umbilical-R-C. 10000f on the raw psu pcb and 4700uf on the fsp input, resistance still to be decided depending on the numbers I get after testing the transformer.
Should I add some more bladder caps after this second capacitor?
I will be adding a second capacitor close to the psu input on the fsp with some resistance before it to form a low pass filter.
So I will have C- umbilical-R-C. 10000f on the raw psu pcb and 4700uf on the fsp input, resistance still to be decided depending on the numbers I get after testing the transformer.
Should I add some more bladder caps after this second capacitor?
Good 6.3V Loctal tubes those 7N7s, 6SN7s in essence, most probably Sylvania OEM. There are even new Loctal bases still produced in Asia.