Fine then. Using a heat sinked Caddock for dummy load testing even, that is top style.
How much raw DCin room does the rectification allow you now?
Was it the small cap doing the monkey business before? What do you think?
The 15K Caddock is the only resistor that I have on hand aprox. to 10K
DCin 324V aprox.
Surely, now is time to enjoy Valve Itch & later I will work on the old SSHV2 pcb.
It's a good idea first of all start with the CCS & check it is OK so after can be follow the rest of building.
Thanks again for support.
It will be good if you will pin point the bad part for knowledge in the future. Either dodgy Depletion after some event, because there was the bricked VR4 to indicate something must had happened, or the small cap was doing something were my suspicions. Anyway. Nice Vin-Vout, stable regulation in the context of the real build and load, all well! Let us know in the Itch thread if it restored to original sonics or to something better after enough Jazz records.
Congrats, Merlin....really good sound with those regs, when they are working. I replaced the sk117 and irf840, no result. But I received a mail from Teabag today saying that the PCB including 2 sets of semis is sent, so I am going to wait some days and then rebuild it from the ground again. This time I'll use crimped wires and lots of patience and so on...when done, I'll post a pic of a nice black meshie AZ1 from Miniwatt Italy, never seen before.
When yours was working before the first shorting accident, it was fully installed and grounded, right? After exchanges, was it restored to all installation details equal also? Trying to understand if there is another parameter at play too. Is there a film cap across the input connector, or its input cables are short enough to last rectification capacitor? Did you always use the same C1,2 capacitors after the two accidents? Can exchange those? A picture of the whole build could give a clue to something maybe. Can take a photo?
Yes, was installed but just on a breadboard for testing, second PCB also was first working on breadboard, the I put in in place in the preamp, grounded and all. And then, zing...
I exchanged the 0,33 cap, not the 10µ, because this is the only one I've got right now. I don't think it is the culprit, it is more of replacing wildly parts, missing the broken one and shooting another healthy one, moving in a circle. Better to replace all of them, including zeners, it takes less time. Would be different if I could use a scope or something like that, then troubleshooting is much easier and precise.
I give it a rest now, also because all spare semis are gone now, so I am forced to wait. Will test the 10µ in another build just to be sure...I'll take a photo later, of the working reg plus preamp.
Thanks for your support, Salas, very appreciated.
I exchanged the 0,33 cap, not the 10µ, because this is the only one I've got right now. I don't think it is the culprit, it is more of replacing wildly parts, missing the broken one and shooting another healthy one, moving in a circle. Better to replace all of them, including zeners, it takes less time. Would be different if I could use a scope or something like that, then troubleshooting is much easier and precise.
I give it a rest now, also because all spare semis are gone now, so I am forced to wait. Will test the 10µ in another build just to be sure...I'll take a photo later, of the working reg plus preamp.
Thanks for your support, Salas, very appreciated.
So its not the grounding or the installation details. Look, use 100mA fast fuse ceramic 6x32mm in line with the DC line positive that goes to the reg input next time. And leave it there. Use good light and inspect with a lens for wire strands. Keep C1 and C2 bit proud off board. Use 470R R1, R2 this time. Use a decoupling 0.1uF to 1uF 450V volt MKP across the reg's input directly. Make sure that your cabling to it and out of it is 400V or more insulation rated and twist them as pairs. Tin the ends that go to the connector, or solder them for security along with the decoupling cap for input. Go slow, check the CCS alone as Merlin did with low voltage first. And good luck! You had been particularly jinxed with shorting.
P.S. about 6.1V DC heaters are better for tube life most of the time. Set heaters individually and turn the HV on later next try.
P.S. about 6.1V DC heaters are better for tube life most of the time. Set heaters individually and turn the HV on later next try.
Thanks I have also AZ1 mine Siemens, don't forget to use it as Graetz rectification with a couple of UF4007, superb sound, it's really incredible the difference, please use the 1st psu cap after AZ1 0.47uF rated minimum 1000V & don't use a lot of big capacitance psu caps: maximum CRC 0.47uF-0.47R+27uF. I use 0.47uF 1500V Auricap-0.47R non inductive like Mills-27uF 400V Solen this combo together SSHV2 it's the best tube PSU I have ear....
Thanks guys for the good advice, did already most of it, except the fuse thing.Last PS cap is close by, 20cm or so.
Powersupply is AZ1- 1µF-10H choke-150µf-7H-47µF film cap, so pretty nicely filtered. The 150µ seems a bit big, but this was I had in the drawer, and for phono I don't want unnecessary hum or noise. Interesting though the Graetz thing, you mean using this together with AZ1? Could imagine it would have better bass and sounding tighter maybe.
BTW I really love those AZ1, gorgeous tube, still somehow not identified by the American and Eastern DIYers. Look at prices for EML mesh rectifiers, insane...
Powersupply is AZ1- 1µF-10H choke-150µf-7H-47µF film cap, so pretty nicely filtered. The 150µ seems a bit big, but this was I had in the drawer, and for phono I don't want unnecessary hum or noise. Interesting though the Graetz thing, you mean using this together with AZ1? Could imagine it would have better bass and sounding tighter maybe.
BTW I really love those AZ1, gorgeous tube, still somehow not identified by the American and Eastern DIYers. Look at prices for EML mesh rectifiers, insane...
Tele Klangfilm 1930s AZ1 mesh globe should be yummy. Did you ever chance on any war time one with the Wehrmacht eagle sign by the way? Those are highly collectible and can command vertigo prices if immaculate.
Sorry my mistake
Merlin, where did you buy this blue grommets? Mcmaster-Carr?
Nope, never had my greedy hands on those. Seems that the Wehrmacht stuff triggers some strange romantic feelings people are ready to shell out big $ for. But they are very nice indeed of course. Good thing is, that sonically the ones without the eagle are the same, if they are from the same age around the 40ies.
I am always fascinated when 70 year old tubes start to glow again and make music, somehow unbelievable. And they all sound different, Teles are the most resolving, Philips second in that area, Valvo softer with bloom, meshies in general more airy and lit up.
And for higher current there is AZ12 or AZ50...