Hey Nick,
You can always follow the trace to find the nearest pad connected to the ruined pad. Once you find this pad, solder a wire to it, and you are gamed again. Don't rush and keep your cool. Frustrated? Take a break and come back later. We all had those days. When you finish, you will love what you did!!
You can always follow the trace to find the nearest pad connected to the ruined pad. Once you find this pad, solder a wire to it, and you are gamed again. Don't rush and keep your cool. Frustrated? Take a break and come back later. We all had those days. When you finish, you will love what you did!!
Nick,
It looks like your chassis is fairly air tight. With the cathode resistors so close to the top plate, you may want to drill some ventilation holes around the tube sockets and on the bottom cover to aid with air flow and dissipate the heat by convection.
Here are some pics for ideas:
And the original link:
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~tossie/koubou_process.html
Enjoy,
It looks like your chassis is fairly air tight. With the cathode resistors so close to the top plate, you may want to drill some ventilation holes around the tube sockets and on the bottom cover to aid with air flow and dissipate the heat by convection.
Here are some pics for ideas:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the original link:
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~tossie/koubou_process.html
Enjoy,
Well I looked and I don't see any trace leaving the pad I messed up.
It happened to the T1-RED pads. The one in the middle " O2 "
There is no trace leaving it on either side. Is it a ground or something?
Oh and some good news. The OPT's shipped out this morning via Priority mail. I should have them by Wensday.
Nick
It happened to the T1-RED pads. The one in the middle " O2 "
There is no trace leaving it on either side. Is it a ground or something?
Oh and some good news. The OPT's shipped out this morning via Priority mail. I should have them by Wensday.
Nick
Nikolas: Be sure to keep your tip clean an well tinned.
You can enlarge the holes back to their original size by pushing some solder wick braid down in the hole with the iron tip. Clean and tin the tip well and watch for the solder wicking into the braid, then lift the braid and iron off of the hole while everything is still hot.
Many PCB's have plated thru holes with pads on both sides, so it depends on which pad came off; the one connected to the trace or the one on opposite side of the PCB from the trace.
You can enlarge the holes back to their original size by pushing some solder wick braid down in the hole with the iron tip. Clean and tin the tip well and watch for the solder wicking into the braid, then lift the braid and iron off of the hole while everything is still hot.
Many PCB's have plated thru holes with pads on both sides, so it depends on which pad came off; the one connected to the trace or the one on opposite side of the PCB from the trace.
OK
So I have started wiring up my board... I have got the choke and motor run capacitor part.
Here's the question.
Does the Cap have a positive and negative side? Mine is not marked if it does. I got the one for 12.99 off ebay. 80mfd 500vac...
I noticed the tubelab wiring diagram showing a positve and negetive in his directions. But mine doesn't show any. I am assuming it doesn't matter. But I am not going to go any further until I know for sure.
Thanks
Nick
So I have started wiring up my board... I have got the choke and motor run capacitor part.
Here's the question.
Does the Cap have a positive and negative side? Mine is not marked if it does. I got the one for 12.99 off ebay. 80mfd 500vac...
I noticed the tubelab wiring diagram showing a positve and negetive in his directions. But mine doesn't show any. I am assuming it doesn't matter. But I am not going to go any further until I know for sure.
Thanks
Nick
Does my wiring look right for my power switch?
The power switch has three poles. The two poles on the outside both say " ON ". I figured this just ment you could put the a HOT wire to either side.
I have it hooked up to a fuesed IEC socket and the Power
Transformer.
Also. When wiring up the amp on the bench. Do I need to ground all the componets to the ground on the IEC socket?
And. My Allied power Transformer has a Green/Yellow wire and a gray wire. I don't know what they are for. Do I just clip them and not use them?
Nick
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The power switch has three poles. The two poles on the outside both say " ON ". I figured this just ment you could put the a HOT wire to either side.
I have it hooked up to a fuesed IEC socket and the Power
Transformer.
Also. When wiring up the amp on the bench. Do I need to ground all the componets to the ground on the IEC socket?
And. My Allied power Transformer has a Green/Yellow wire and a gray wire. I don't know what they are for. Do I just clip them and not use them?
Nick
nikolas812 said:
The green/yellow is the center tap for the 6.3V filament winding. The Simple SE board does not use it. I'd tape off the end and neatly coil the excess wire. You might want it some day.
The gray wire is most likely a 50V bias tap. There should be a wiring diagram or a label on the transformer which describes the color coding on the leads.
The easiest way to determine how the switch operates is using the continuity testing or ohm setting on your meter - i.e. put the probes across the terminals you intend to use and verify that it indeeds breaks the connection when it says "Off".nikolas812 said:
nikolas812 said:
The connection to the IEC socket is not clear from the angle of the picture. If you're switching the Hot side, then Neutral should go directly to the other primary lead of the transformer.
Please check your connections.
Thank you.
I was getting ready to write a response about the box only saying it was " Sheilded Gray". I don't know if this is common for home electonics for a ground wire to be specified this way.
But I would have much prefered the box just said it was a ground wire.
Oh well... Learning stuff by the minute with this thing.
Also. Do I need to ground all the transformers and such while hooking the amp up on a bread board?
Nick
I was getting ready to write a response about the box only saying it was " Sheilded Gray". I don't know if this is common for home electonics for a ground wire to be specified this way.
But I would have much prefered the box just said it was a ground wire.
Oh well... Learning stuff by the minute with this thing.
Also. Do I need to ground all the transformers and such while hooking the amp up on a bread board?
Nick
Only if you want to live.
Please, please, please take the time to review the safety thread...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30172
nikolas812 said:I don't know if this is common for home electonics for a ground wire to be specified this way.
But I would have much prefered the box just said it was a ground wire.
It's not a ground wire. It's an electrostatic shield connection. The noise reduction works best when the shield is tied to ground potential so that's why it is connected to ground.
It is not a substititue for a safety ground. You still need to ground the frame of the transformer.
The Allied transformers are one of the few types that I've seen with an electrostatic shield.
Oh well... Learning stuff by the minute with this thing.
Take your time, read and re-read the labels, data sheets, etc. and keep asking questions.
Take jrn77478's advice, read the safety thread and ground all the transformers and exposed metal parts on your bread board.
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