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Simple P-P for building and checkout for Dummies

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Pardon all the questions, but would it be possible to run this amp with an ipod?.......Too many questions is not enough moparman, fire away at will...

Yes, I have used mine with an ipod, a Sony Discman, a DVD player, my computer, and the TV set's audio output.

I have been released from my cage at work since the network is down and have some catching up do do. I have a few questions for the Mopar man. Anyone calling himself the Moparman must have a favorite. Which one? Anything like this one (still not finished after 10 years)? Question #2, do you find yourself at National Trail Raceway in the middle of August? I might be there this year.
 

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if I only get to choose 1

After much thought, If I had to choose one, it would be a 69 1/2 Road Runner. The one with the lift off fiberglass hood, bench seat, plain steel rims, 4 speed and of course 440 six pack. Hemi Cuda 2nd place. That is a very nice Challenger you have, what are your thoughts on the new one? I think the new camaro looks like a hodge-podge of ideas that don't fit together. And the 2011 Mustang, 12.4s factory stock, makes me wonder why I even mess around with old cars.

well, here is mine, 67 Barracuda Formula S, factory 383 4 speed car
after I had it blasted it tuned out not as solid as I thought, gonna be a couple years before its done.
 

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After much thought, If I had to choose one, it would be a 69 1/2 Road Runner.

I kinda like the look of the 70 road runner. If I had to choose one, it would probably be a Challenger.....or maybe a Cuda....or

That is a very nice Challenger you have, what are your thoughts on the new one?

Well, that is what it looked like after I got the shell back from the body shop, and assembled enough of it to do a burnout (maybe 6 years ago). Unfortunately the body shop guy retired shortly after charging me a bucket full of cash to do the body work and paint the car. Most of the new sheet metal rusted through within a year. It doesn't look so nice now.

I bought the car cheap after some "experts" had rebuilt the power train. It had nitrous on a 440 and the timeslips in the glovebox were all mid 14's. A STOCK 440 in a Challenger should do 14's. Shiny new STD size forged pistons in oval shaped glazed over bores do not make a fast motor. A wooden dowel behind the accumulator in the 727 does not make for crisp shifts, it makes for a clogged valve body and burnt clutches. I started over. New pistons in round holes, Indy heads, rebuilt the 727 and 8 3/4. Fries tires, but haven't been over 30 MPH yet.

what are your thoughts on the new one?

I went to the Nationals a few years ago to see the unveiling of the concept car. The new Challenger looks a lot more like the concept than the Charger did. I like the looks of the Challenger more than the Camaro or Mustang, but the Challenger gets spanked by them in performance testing. The Challenger, Charger, 300C, and Magnum (RIP) are all based on a 10 year old Mercedes E class chassis, which is a bit on the heavy side. Stlll, as I told the Dodge dealer as I drove out in the "Cheap Jeep" (Patriot), If I won the lottery the only question would be black or orange.

And the 2011 Mustang, 12.4s factory stock, makes me wonder why I even mess around with old cars.

It turns out that Ford hasn't been too honest about the horsepower rating on the new 5.0 Mustang. They claim about 415. Independent testing shows 395 at the wheels, which is about 460 at the crank. The magazine testers claim 12.7 in the quarter. Magazine guys always seem to find ways to go faster than regular drivers. Cars run nearly 1 second slower here in the Florida heat than they do in a magazine page.

Back before they closed the local drag strip I used to smoke the 5.0 Mustang GT's with my FWD 1982 Charger. Of course I had made a few mods like a turbo motor out of a Daytona and a bunch of boost. I built it when Caroll Shelby worked for Dodge and I got to talk to him on the phone. This was long before people started hot rodding FWD stuff. When that got popular, I got the Challenger.

well, here is mine, 67 Barracuda Formula S, factory 383 4 speed car
after I had it blasted it tuned out not as solid as I thought, gonna be a couple years before its done.

I know that feeling. The Challenger looked a lot better when I got it than it did after the paint came off. Several unfortunate circumstances have absorbed my spare time and cash, so the Challenger hasn't been worked on in a few years. Good luck with the Barracuda.
 
lol, I've heard of a bolt behind the accumulator, but not wood! I had alot of problems with the tranny in my previous plymouth street/drag car. I went thru 3 trannys before I found a guy that knew what he was doing. I went with a reverse manual v/b and I loved it. best money spent IMHO for mopar 727.
see you at the nats.
 
amp pictures

This looks like amps other people have made on this forum, and I did copy what I saw in pictures. This is my first one, and was looking for an easy build. Apologies if I stole anyones design ideas.
 

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Reviving this thread too... :)

Dummy reporting in for a Tubelab PP build! :D

I have George's Tubelab PP Kit and am ready to populate the board with components. Would like to do a last minute check with the good folks of diyaudio. The questions that I have are:

1. Capacitors C101 and C201 - any value that is recommended? Don't have a scope or square wave generator to test - found the foloowing thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/201612-feedback-compensation-capacitor-tubelab-spp.html

Any suggestions welcome based on what sounded good to most folks.

2. R1 resistor value - there are 2 components provided with the kit - 150 ohm and 39 ohm (5 watt). I am not going to used a choke. Which value should I choose?

3. 1N5408 for D1 and D2 - Using EL84 and not 6CW5 tubes - so I guess I can leave this alone?

I am using Edcor XPWR066-240 power transformer and Edcor CXPP25-MS-7.6K as OPTs.

Thanks in advance.

- Zia
 
1) I'm running mine without feedback at the moment. Did you get the kit? I think i used a 680uF. The best value depends on a few different things, but the OPT has the most impact.

2) Based on your question in #3, you are using EL84. In that case, you want the 150 ohm. I believe this is covered in the instructions.

3) If you are using the 5AR4 rectifier, then you don't need the diodes.
 
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