Hi John,
Since I heard the Teac vrds 25 CD never sounded the same...
Your specially selected base seems very special....
I am sourcing some parts to complete the build for Cloontje. In your first picture I see some rubber rings to support the working bit of the Shigaclone.
I don't have the right name for this part so getting it is a bit of a nightmare..
I hope that you can point me in the right direction..
R.
Since I heard the Teac vrds 25 CD never sounded the same...
Your specially selected base seems very special....
I am sourcing some parts to complete the build for Cloontje. In your first picture I see some rubber rings to support the working bit of the Shigaclone.
I don't have the right name for this part so getting it is a bit of a nightmare..
I hope that you can point me in the right direction..
R.
Hi Xerxes,
These magic rings are called o-ring seals, used for sealing axel's and other applications, you can get them in most hardware stores.
In my eyes not a good way to mount the transport, there is a big chance that mounting the transport this way you put to much torsion in the rediculously flimsy weak platform..
I only use it temporary until my solution is finished.
I know its a cheap transport, but there is no reason why we cant't improve it.
regards, John.
These magic rings are called o-ring seals, used for sealing axel's and other applications, you can get them in most hardware stores.
In my eyes not a good way to mount the transport, there is a big chance that mounting the transport this way you put to much torsion in the rediculously flimsy weak platform..
I only use it temporary until my solution is finished.
I know its a cheap transport, but there is no reason why we cant't improve it.
regards, John.
I made a prototype for my new base to mount everything to.
I still need to get some parts and tools to finish the prototype, this is just a first revision to see if it will work.
i also plan to get rid of most of the play of the sled by decresing tolerances.
prototype is made out of aluminium, 19mm thick, but i plan on making the final part out of bronze? or brass?.
the spindel will be belt driven, with a more substantial spindel, 4mm or even 6mm, and will be made out of titanium to lower the mass.
i already scored some high precision (p5 class) stainless steel bearings.
let me know what you think and if there is an area that i can improve.
This is a work in progress
regards, John
I still need to get some parts and tools to finish the prototype, this is just a first revision to see if it will work.
i also plan to get rid of most of the play of the sled by decresing tolerances.
prototype is made out of aluminium, 19mm thick, but i plan on making the final part out of bronze? or brass?.
the spindel will be belt driven, with a more substantial spindel, 4mm or even 6mm, and will be made out of titanium to lower the mass.
i already scored some high precision (p5 class) stainless steel bearings.
let me know what you think and if there is an area that i can improve.
This is a work in progress
regards, John
Attachments
Nice to see Shiga MKII evolving in skillfull hands !
John, I bet your Shiga will leave behind Teac VRDS10 after 300 hours burn-in.
A good chassis and proper dampening of mechanism can make a huge difference.
Regards
What do you recommend as "proper dampening of mechanism" ?
Basic suggestions are:
Add soft springs under and above mechanism Super Soft Springs – Stinkyboard
Make sure that mechanic is mounted in a non-resonant enclosure - fill the enclosure with damping_soundcoat
http://www.partsconnexion.com/CONNEX-76751.html
Anti vibration spikes under enclosure isolation_viprapod
http://www.partsconnexion.com/CONNEX-76751.html
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator:
Few advices for last GB fellows.
After 5 mounts of waiting you get your Shiga MKII and you are eager to start and listen.
Before power up make sure you power up correctly the main board. There is no power protection in place and if you reverse polarity a high grade 400 euro unit is gone for good with or without pyrotechnic effects. (reading this thread always help)
OK, you managed to power up the unit, CD is spinning but there is no joy. CD spin and no TOC reading.
There are two things you may forget:
- one is optical protection lead
- second is laser protection solder bulb
(reading this thread always help)
On other hand, please keep in mind that optical ribbon cable was not designed for many connect/disconnect cycles. Often after 3-4 cycles this is no more usable. If you swap the CD mechanical units and at some point some CD's are no longer readable, look for a ribbon replacement.
Regards,
Tibi
After 5 mounts of waiting you get your Shiga MKII and you are eager to start and listen.
Before power up make sure you power up correctly the main board. There is no power protection in place and if you reverse polarity a high grade 400 euro unit is gone for good with or without pyrotechnic effects. (reading this thread always help)
OK, you managed to power up the unit, CD is spinning but there is no joy. CD spin and no TOC reading.
There are two things you may forget:
- one is optical protection lead
- second is laser protection solder bulb
(reading this thread always help)
On other hand, please keep in mind that optical ribbon cable was not designed for many connect/disconnect cycles. Often after 3-4 cycles this is no more usable. If you swap the CD mechanical units and at some point some CD's are no longer readable, look for a ribbon replacement.
Regards,
Tibi
I made a prototype for my new base to mount everything to.
I still need to get some parts and tools to finish the prototype, this is just a first revision to see if it will work.
i also plan to get rid of most of the play of the sled by decresing tolerances.
prototype is made out of aluminium, 19mm thick, but i plan on making the final part out of bronze? or brass?.
the spindel will be belt driven, with a more substantial spindel, 4mm or even 6mm, and will be made out of titanium to lower the mass.
i already scored some high precision (p5 class) stainless steel bearings.
let me know what you think and if there is an area that i can improve.
This is a work in progress
regards, John
Oh my..! Somewhere in the previous century I studied mechanical engineering, but my life took a different turn so I did not put it to practice. Every time I see some fine engineering I am in awe.
I am very much looking forward to see your progress.
R.
all the upgrades
So I now have all the shiga components [ie. pcb's, transports, tranny, cd puck...] Is there a compiled list of all the mods up till now or do I just need to go through all the post again. I am building with the premium bom recommendations. Thanks, and let the fun begin!!
best regards,
Steve
So I now have all the shiga components [ie. pcb's, transports, tranny, cd puck...] Is there a compiled list of all the mods up till now or do I just need to go through all the post again. I am building with the premium bom recommendations. Thanks, and let the fun begin!!
best regards,
Steve
Things have been compiled several times, but you can be the first to put all pieces together. If you do so please share with community.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mkii-black-builders-thread-5.html#post3929209
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Iv-nyDkI6QsHZ9sJGm6zgQUKKyK6miERwkvVvIVaQi8/edit?usp=sharing
Regards,
Tibi
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...mkii-black-builders-thread-5.html#post3929209
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Iv-nyDkI6QsHZ9sJGm6zgQUKKyK6miERwkvVvIVaQi8/edit?usp=sharing
Regards,
Tibi
3D printed Shiga MKII cd player is mentioned in What HI-FI
Take a look at the world's first 3D printed CD player | What Hi-Fi?
Regards,
Tibi
Take a look at the world's first 3D printed CD player | What Hi-Fi?
Regards,
Tibi
Hi Tibi,
If i want to use an external clock, newclassd neutron star reference bla bla with its own power supply, what do i have to do?
I assume remove the tent clock?, and what other components?.
then simply commect to ext clock pads?
I have the high grade version of the shiga 2 board.
regards,
John
If i want to use an external clock, newclassd neutron star reference bla bla with its own power supply, what do i have to do?
I assume remove the tent clock?, and what other components?.
then simply commect to ext clock pads?
I have the high grade version of the shiga 2 board.
regards,
John
Hi Xerxes,
I am also looking forward to see my progress.
Still waiting for some parts before i can try if it brings something.
Some say to mount flexible, others say mount it as rigit as you can.
mounting flexible is easy, buy springs or rubber, mount, done.
mounting very ridgit, that is not easy done, the existing base is not solid enough to do so, easy to put torsion in the base plate.
This is all theory ofcourse, so i cobbled something up and pushed the startbutton on my cnc mill.
It looks nice for shure, non magnetic, but does it work??
Another question for the wise,
I read that double c core transformers are the way to go, but what about R core transformers?
I had a look at some of the best cd players/cd transpots in the world, most of em use R core transformers ( like esoteric ).
regards,
John
Hi Tibi,
Thank you for the quick response as always.
I must say the shiga is getting a little bit better, especially voices, but hasn't beaten my vrds 10 yet when it comes to bass reproduction.
But the amount of data it pulls of a cd is impressive, more then the teac could only dream of.
I am hearing things i have never heard before.
Sadly my teac had died several months ago so i can't compare them.
Regards,
John
John,
R-Core is the way to go when you need very low noise at low power levels. It has very low EMI.
Double C-Core is an R-core cut in two. It has an air gap and will not get saturated, no issue here as the power is low. C-core is very good for a class B high dynamics amp.
Regards,
Tibi
R-Core is the way to go when you need very low noise at low power levels. It has very low EMI.
Double C-Core is an R-core cut in two. It has an air gap and will not get saturated, no issue here as the power is low. C-core is very good for a class B high dynamics amp.
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator:
The ribboncable seems to take some unhealthy turns...
Yes. I already informed the maker. He didn't expected all this huge buzz around his project and now is designing a new enclosure with a new look and a better positioning of electronics.
If all looks great I'll ask him to share design here. ;D
Regards,
Tibi
Last edited by a moderator: