JShadzi, I'm a big fan of MTM and horn drivers, and your project looks very promising to me. Unfortunately, I have no skill to build enclosure, but I really want try it in the future.
I currently own Barefoot MM27 (MTM+ tandem subwoofers) and JBL DMS-1 (WTW, Digital crossover + multi Aleph J driven). Both sounds very dynamic but accurate. Lipinski 707 is extremely accurate but not as dynamic / lively as Barefoot.
I currently own Barefoot MM27 (MTM+ tandem subwoofers) and JBL DMS-1 (WTW, Digital crossover + multi Aleph J driven). Both sounds very dynamic but accurate. Lipinski 707 is extremely accurate but not as dynamic / lively as Barefoot.
I can only assume that it didn't work properly because you didn't know how to process the data from each sub's steady state response and equalize accordingly. From what I've learnt the algorithm for such is no simple thing.
That said there is some free software out now aimed at doing just that. I haven't used it, or even read much about it yet but here it is if you're interested.
http://andyc.diy-audio-engineering.org/mso/html/index.html
Last edited:
My purpose is to build full range towers so locating the sub elsewhere isn't something I'd do with this project, much for the reason described above that I can easily locate bass down to 50hz or so (and I suspect most if not all people can).
However I am considering adding a 15 or 18" pro audio subwoofer to take on the low end 20-50hz or so but I don't suspect it will be needed.
I really want to build one regardless, but you know how that goes =)
I haven't gotten that far. You can follow it in my build thread when I do. Back on topic for JShadzi.
Shawn
Last edited:
Depending on your room, you would be surprised how high a sub can be crossed. In one of my rooms, I can't cross any higher than 50hz, meanwhile in another room here I can get away with 200hz.
Ahh yes I have seen your thread, should be fun once you get them built, you've got a ways to go, hopefully you can make some progress soon!
I've spent quite a bit of time EQing and measuring my listening room, it has no purposeful treatment thus far (that's a future project), has a nice room gain right in the listening position against the wall, Alison Effect in the 150hz range, planning on experimenting in the 100-150hz range initially.
Great. One question is how you would time / phase align the driver? I utilized (kind of) Keele linear phase method for my horn WTW, and it did work flawlessly. Actually, I started my DIY project very much like yours, but ended up buying used JBL. Call me looser.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/237750-2x12-horn-speaker-design.html
The measurement link is on the page 3. Flat down only to 30Hz, though....
I'll follow your thread, it's very interesting!
Got some work done on the baffles
Here I'm flush mounting the 3" port tube from the rear.
Flush mounted the Mag 12 to the frame for cosmetics, including the front gasket this flange is 3/4" thick
I threw a 1/2" round over on the back of the subwoofer opening.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here I'm flush mounting the 3" port tube from the rear.
Flush mounted the Mag 12 to the frame for cosmetics, including the front gasket this flange is 3/4" thick
I threw a 1/2" round over on the back of the subwoofer opening.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got out to the garage last night for an hour, front baffle is coming along
Flush mounted both Faitalpro 8" mids
3/4" roundover on back of baffle to allow mids to breathe.
Front baffle/s as it stands, next step is to roundover the port openings
Started working on the flush mount for the Seos 10 horn, here is my plan. Initially make a flush cut around the outside of the horn with a 1/4" flush cut bit, that will created a negative ID pattern that is 1/4" larger than the horn per side. Then using that oversized pattern, do another trim cut using a 5/8" trim bit with a 3/8" bearing on it, which will create and undersized ID pattern exactly the size of the horn. Here is the start, more to come.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Flush mounted both Faitalpro 8" mids
3/4" roundover on back of baffle to allow mids to breathe.
Front baffle/s as it stands, next step is to roundover the port openings
Started working on the flush mount for the Seos 10 horn, here is my plan. Initially make a flush cut around the outside of the horn with a 1/4" flush cut bit, that will created a negative ID pattern that is 1/4" larger than the horn per side. Then using that oversized pattern, do another trim cut using a 5/8" trim bit with a 3/8" bearing on it, which will create and undersized ID pattern exactly the size of the horn. Here is the start, more to come.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This stuff looks perfect for CLD use @mindsource
http://www.parts-express.com/acry-t...n-coating-paintable-damping-material--260-105
Yes. I've used a 50/50 mix of regular Duratex and sand, it appeared to deaden the cabinet. I'd like to try it with the product above as well, but I'm all out at the moment.
Got a bunch done today, these guys are really coming together =)
First off I worked on flush mounting the Seos 10 horns...man flush mounting shapes like this is SO much more work than a round driver using a circle jig.
I went a different route than what I was planning before as this was much easier and well documented online. The pictures are sort of self explanatory, let me know if you have any questions.
This is a pattern guide, I used a 3/4" which compensates for the 1/4" diameter of the router bit.
And this is the finished template positioned on the enclosure ready use
Test for to make sure
Using this bit set to .2"
And done
Test fit wala
Now that all the front baffle driver routing was done, I attached it to the enclosure
3" Port tubes glued into the baffle, you can see the inside entrance flare
From the front
And with 1.125" radius roundover
My fingers for reference
And making lots of dust, first lots of flush cutting, then 1.25" radius roundover on front baffle, back of enclosure got a .75" radius and other top edges .25" radius.
Come at me bro
Before roundovers
After and where things stand
Now lots of sanding and vacuuming!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First off I worked on flush mounting the Seos 10 horns...man flush mounting shapes like this is SO much more work than a round driver using a circle jig.
I went a different route than what I was planning before as this was much easier and well documented online. The pictures are sort of self explanatory, let me know if you have any questions.
This is a pattern guide, I used a 3/4" which compensates for the 1/4" diameter of the router bit.
And this is the finished template positioned on the enclosure ready use
Test for to make sure
Using this bit set to .2"
And done
Test fit wala
Now that all the front baffle driver routing was done, I attached it to the enclosure
3" Port tubes glued into the baffle, you can see the inside entrance flare
From the front
And with 1.125" radius roundover
My fingers for reference
And making lots of dust, first lots of flush cutting, then 1.25" radius roundover on front baffle, back of enclosure got a .75" radius and other top edges .25" radius.
Come at me bro
Before roundovers
After and where things stand
Now lots of sanding and vacuuming!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks glad you're enjoying it!
For all the circles I use a Jasper circle jig, I have the 7" and 18" version. Like this
For the larger size roundovers Magnate makes awesome router bits available on Amazon.
HTH!
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.