seas prestige L16RNX in doors?

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So it might be full range, If it was my car, plug in a test speaker and make sure it is full range, good news is the your ohm load will not ne affected, most car audio is stable at a 2 ohm load-stereo. As long as it is not wired to a radio, after market amp works fine. All I can say is, if it fits, thats what you want, you are going to use an amp to run them, trying and using the existing enclosure, that should rock!
I know the front are wires as well, just leave them be, after market amp has its own built in cross over, no guess work. Good luck and Merry Christmas. Mav
 
Would you point me to a tutorial or other information so I can learn how to model the speaker and door?
Download winISD it is free. It will simulate bass response for any speaker you can get T/S specs for (Fs, Qts, etc). It works the best to compare, such as model what you have now and then compare the prospective new driver or enclosure. It will show what Hz the driver rolls off at, what ranges it may work better at. It is primarily used for subs but works fine for any bass driver. To model IB mount just use a very large sealed box like 100s of cf. For a driver, as you change box size (just drag the mouse on the box in that tab) you will see above Vas it gets to where the response stops changing much. At that point you would have an IB mounting and the driver will go as low as it is capable. You can set the wattage used to compare different power drivers with different sensitivities, though manufacturers don't always have spot on specs. Some forums have tested many diy drivers like Seas and you can get specs there, like diymobileaudio dot com. In general it should simulate close to what you will get anyway, enough to tell you if its worth trying in my experience. Some people think it is an exact science, but there are huge factors in car audio that make it far more complex than just calculating what is the best speaker. For home use in a big square room that is easier to do.
 
They can work but the low QTS is not as nice for IB use. Note the Audax has a high QTS, it should put out a lot at the ~50Hz Fs per watt compared to the others. One would have to model them as the charts do not seem to show this. That is assuming you will midbass them down around 50Hz, the higher QTS should give a flatter curve 50 to say 200 you might use them at. A low QTS tends to roll off on the bottom and require more EQ, which in a car then the EQ tends to start pushing up the sub at its 50Hz LP.

Yes, you want to you drivers with high Qts in car because "enclosures" are large (when assembled in doors etc).

Do you think that Qts 1.26 is TOO high? There is an interesting cheapo driver (for car)
JAMO 20414 6-1/2" Treated Paper Cone Woofer
 
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