I second the vote for the Ascendant Audio Atlas 12
Hi Simon
I second the suggestion of the Atlas 12. One of the greatest advantages of the Atlas 12 is it's variable Q. If you use it in a sealed box, you can simply wired a 3- or even a 6-position switch over the gold terminals (the gold is used to vary the Q, the silver terminals is used to drive the sub itself). You can then add different size resisitors over the terminals of the switch, but make the first position a dead short (for the lowest Q position) and leave the last position open (i.e. no connection) for the highesr Q position. Then you can mount the sub in a decently sized box (I would suggest about (2 - 2.5 cu.ft.) and play with the Q to suit you. The nice thing is that if you use a largish box (say about 3cu.ft.) then your lowest Q setting will yield a very low box Q (about 0.52), but with the highest Q setting, the box Q will increase to about 0.82. That means that you can play with the bass on your subs. So if you have a CD that is too bass heavy, then you turn the Q down. If the CD is bass light, then turn the Q up. With a standard 6-position switch you can have a lot of fun.
Couple that to the fact that the Atlas driver cones are very light, you should have very articulate bass, and with it’s huge excursion capabilities you should be able to really plumb the bass depths. One last thing about the Atlas I like, something which IMHO makes it even better than is Avalanche bigger brothers, is the low Le (only .86 mH). All-in-all I think that they are really incredible drivers for the money. Just my $0.02.
Enjoy,
Deon
Hi Simon
I second the suggestion of the Atlas 12. One of the greatest advantages of the Atlas 12 is it's variable Q. If you use it in a sealed box, you can simply wired a 3- or even a 6-position switch over the gold terminals (the gold is used to vary the Q, the silver terminals is used to drive the sub itself). You can then add different size resisitors over the terminals of the switch, but make the first position a dead short (for the lowest Q position) and leave the last position open (i.e. no connection) for the highesr Q position. Then you can mount the sub in a decently sized box (I would suggest about (2 - 2.5 cu.ft.) and play with the Q to suit you. The nice thing is that if you use a largish box (say about 3cu.ft.) then your lowest Q setting will yield a very low box Q (about 0.52), but with the highest Q setting, the box Q will increase to about 0.82. That means that you can play with the bass on your subs. So if you have a CD that is too bass heavy, then you turn the Q down. If the CD is bass light, then turn the Q up. With a standard 6-position switch you can have a lot of fun.
Couple that to the fact that the Atlas driver cones are very light, you should have very articulate bass, and with it’s huge excursion capabilities you should be able to really plumb the bass depths. One last thing about the Atlas I like, something which IMHO makes it even better than is Avalanche bigger brothers, is the low Le (only .86 mH). All-in-all I think that they are really incredible drivers for the money. Just my $0.02. Enjoy,
Deon
I don't have much of a frame of reference, as subwoofers have never been something that I had an interest in. I built this sub specifically to go with Fostex FE166ES-R factory recommended horns, which although very very nice are somewhat lean on the low end.
When conceiving this project I was not looking for the end all where all in low end bass, but rather my goal was build a sub that would be clean to the low 30's to use with music only. I generally listen at relatively low levels so maximum SPL is not an issue with me and therefore I felt comfortable using the 10-inch Seas Driver which can produce reasonable SPLs to meet my needs. .
Based upon my listening so far the sub disappears while at the same time adding the low end presence that I was looking for. It especially adds a presence to jazz and orchestral works. To see what it would really do I played some of my son's drum and bass mixes. The bass, according to my son, was clean and as it should be; he was impressed.
I can't say how this stacks up against other designs, as I just haven't listened to other units and designs. For the money, about $300 US, I feel that it is an excellent value.
YMMV.
Bill
When conceiving this project I was not looking for the end all where all in low end bass, but rather my goal was build a sub that would be clean to the low 30's to use with music only. I generally listen at relatively low levels so maximum SPL is not an issue with me and therefore I felt comfortable using the 10-inch Seas Driver which can produce reasonable SPLs to meet my needs. .
Based upon my listening so far the sub disappears while at the same time adding the low end presence that I was looking for. It especially adds a presence to jazz and orchestral works. To see what it would really do I played some of my son's drum and bass mixes. The bass, according to my son, was clean and as it should be; he was impressed.
I can't say how this stacks up against other designs, as I just haven't listened to other units and designs. For the money, about $300 US, I feel that it is an excellent value.
YMMV.
Bill
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