If you want to go pro and you like Eminence and you want to buy in Canada, contact Q components in Ontario.
http://www.loudspeakers.ca/
http://www.loudspeakers.ca/
GM said:
I've been interested in these for sometime now, the price is right and they should be very sq oriented which is what I want the most.. The plan is to mount isobaric with one driver seeing 5 cubic feet, not looking for high spl just good clean accurate bass.. They could be a poor mans JBL I'm a hoping
and I may build two units so 4 drivers in all... Davetinitus said:
That may be the best option. 94db is pretty good, and that woofer plays low.
If he's really wanting a 97-99db woofer, then he's will lose deep bass. He won't get the deep subsonic boom of car stereo, but if would be much louder however. The Dayton 18" seems like a good balance between LOUD and the LOW BOOM he's looking for.
28 inch and still not enough...wonder about whopling paper cone price is over 2000EUR, made in Korea
http://www.traumboxen.de/kics/pw-1001.htm
220mm magnet looks real small
price is over 2000EUR, made in Korea http://www.traumboxen.de/kics/pw-1001.htm
220mm magnet looks real small
Attachments
Bigger radiator = greater acoustic efficiency, not electrical, ergo 'BIB' cab rules to get LF efficiency, so a 20 Hz Fs/0.5 Qes/120 ft^3 Vas (not a typo!) driver with a very low Le in a ~203 ft^3 cab tuned to 17 Hz yields a near 100 dB efficient T/S maximally flat alignment.
A real world 'close enough' example was the EV 30W, a 15 Hz Fs, 0.31 Qes 30" Styrofoam diaphragm woofer with a 210 ft^3 Vas that was nominally 100 dB eff. down to 20 Hz in ~160 ft^3/17 Hz.
GM
A real world 'close enough' example was the EV 30W, a 15 Hz Fs, 0.31 Qes 30" Styrofoam diaphragm woofer with a 210 ft^3 Vas that was nominally 100 dB eff. down to 20 Hz in ~160 ft^3/17 Hz.
GM
Yeah !!! It's called Semtex, but really hard to live with I think.
Real world noise is low! loud!! and painful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
At homw I listen to bass cello and organ music, and while I can appreciate the "want" do we really need it to actually hear the music.
Power is relatively cheap, so I will have to take the two of those parametres that are available and doable:-{( In the real world I think most manufacturers exaggerate the efficiecy of the drivers they market, for example my CV's are advertised at 96dB, but when you punch parametres into the sims they come out at 88dB, not lies just using the loudest peaks in the spectrum.
So even the most efficient driver probably will not be that loud where you want it .
Brett is right; pick the two parts you are most interested in and work around those
Real world noise is low! loud!! and painful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
At homw I listen to bass cello and organ music, and while I can appreciate the "want" do we really need it to actually hear the music.
Power is relatively cheap, so I will have to take the two of those parametres that are available and doable:-{( In the real world I think most manufacturers exaggerate the efficiecy of the drivers they market, for example my CV's are advertised at 96dB, but when you punch parametres into the sims they come out at 88dB, not lies just using the loudest peaks in the spectrum.
So even the most efficient driver probably will not be that loud where you want it .
Brett is right; pick the two parts you are most interested in and work around those
700 watt sub amp? That won't cost too much. I got a used Behringer EP2500 for well under $300; that'll do at least 600W per channel. Peavey CS800's and PV8.5C amps will do over 400W/channel/4 ohms, and aren't expensive used.
Although, there IS a way: .... if you make your listening room small enough, you will achieve both 20 Hz response and high efficiency, through the magic of "room gain". The easiest way to do this may be to build a large speaker cabinet, and get inside.
Although, there IS a way: .... if you make your listening room small enough, you will achieve both 20 Hz response and high efficiency, through the magic of "room gain". The easiest way to do this may be to build a large speaker cabinet, and get inside.
Sorry we couldnt help you much, but your goal is not realistic, as stated several times
Its ok with pro drivers fore very loud levels, but in that case you will have to cut down on the 20hz...its possible but it gets VERY big and expencive
Be more realistic and your goal is within reach
But its shere rubbish that a 90db speaker cant be dynamic...its just a question of having enough drivers, and not just a matter of sensitivity...big surface area equals dynamic sound
Its ok with pro drivers fore very loud levels, but in that case you will have to cut down on the 20hz...its possible but it gets VERY big and expencive
Be more realistic and your goal is within reach
But its shere rubbish that a 90db speaker cant be dynamic...its just a question of having enough drivers, and not just a matter of sensitivity...big surface area equals dynamic sound
nickthevoice said:it's ma phylosophy for all audio, when you need DYNAMIC you need Efficient speaker THAT'S IT
it's the same in my MIDRANGE MIDBASS and SUBWOOFER.
You will not get an argument from me re high eff drivers, as that's all I use. However, for a sub efficiency is less important than volume displacement (usually - depends on design compromises).
You keep ignoring the suggestions for a tapped horn. This is the only way I can see you getting efficiency and output levels from a single driver; you will not from a direct radiator. There is a huge TH thread here, and this is one of the designs that can use an Eminence 3015LF.
http://volvotreter.de/th.htm
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