Lots of tools were made for the war effort. They were late 30's designs stripped down a bit to make production faster. No new engineering was done as that was a scarce resource. Steel was not scarce. Machine time was and the folks to run them. What also was scarce were items like rubber and brass.
The vintage machines did have one short coming. The bearings were cheap as they did not expect the machines to last.
That is why I suggested doing test cuts with the blade at different heights. That is the best test for bearing wear.
As to belt drive only my cheapest table saw is direct drive all the rest use belts.
Now there is one advantage to a tilting table and that is the blade width opening can be narrow. So some of that type cannot be used with a dado blade. Of course European saws often can't as a dado isn't permitted under some safety standards.
Now also the OP mentioned table tilting gear wear. This is often caused by saw dust build up increasing the contact pressure and thus faster wear of the bearing surfaces. Of course the packed in saw dust would keep the gears tight even with the wear. So they only loosen up after being cleaned. A little bit of use will tighten them again. These days saws tend to have dust collection systems and enclosed bottoms. The older saw running at slower speeds made larger particles of dust and it settled faster, was easier to filter and a bit less dangerous.
The first few teeth are chewed away pretty badly. The 1st three teeth or so fundamentally don't exist. I think it came from people starting to turn the raising gear before loosening the locking mechanism, and there is one at each end.
I found some perfect size trim at Lowe's to make CC sled runners.
After watching some YT vids I've decided that the link belt is the way to go.
BUT a new saw is calling my name. So I'm hesitant to put any money into this small car, I mean table saw. I think this, like my (non-working) 54 Gibson guitar amp, needs someone who is into iron.
I found some perfect size trim at Lowe's to make CC sled runners.
After watching some YT vids I've decided that the link belt is the way to go.
BUT a new saw is calling my name. So I'm hesitant to put any money into this small car, I mean table saw. I think this, like my (non-working) 54 Gibson guitar amp, needs someone who is into iron.
Ezas,
Here's a link to what I think is the correct manual for your saw. Due to the heavy cast iron, it is likely better than most you can buy new today unless you go with a new cabinet saw. Unless you are planning on doing lots of woodworking, there is something to be said about a compact saw. That is, unless you have lots of space.
Owner's Manual:
34-160 Delta Milwaukee 8 Inch Circular saw Instructions 1946
A couple of other pics so you can figure out if I found the correct model:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=13643
Just click on the picture and on the next page you'll see a "view PDF" link in the lower left. Click it and save a copy on your computer.
Also, you might consider contacting Delta about the part you need. They are pretty amazing regarding the parts they still have for old equipment.
Here is one source for parts. Go down the list and locate 34-160, then click view on the right. If it's different from yours, you might check the two previous models in the list also:
http://www.mikestools.com/delta-circular-table-saws-parts-lists_2279.aspx
Enjoy,
Steve
Here's a link to what I think is the correct manual for your saw. Due to the heavy cast iron, it is likely better than most you can buy new today unless you go with a new cabinet saw. Unless you are planning on doing lots of woodworking, there is something to be said about a compact saw. That is, unless you have lots of space.
Owner's Manual:
34-160 Delta Milwaukee 8 Inch Circular saw Instructions 1946
A couple of other pics so you can figure out if I found the correct model:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=13643
Just click on the picture and on the next page you'll see a "view PDF" link in the lower left. Click it and save a copy on your computer.
Also, you might consider contacting Delta about the part you need. They are pretty amazing regarding the parts they still have for old equipment.
Here is one source for parts. Go down the list and locate 34-160, then click view on the right. If it's different from yours, you might check the two previous models in the list also:
http://www.mikestools.com/delta-circular-table-saws-parts-lists_2279.aspx
Enjoy,
Steve
Last edited:
Don't take this the wrong way but I think I love you. If that is not it, it is damn close. Many thanks for that.
For now the trunnion is fine for me since I only need flat, where it is on the stop, and 45* where the gear is fine.
As suggested above I'm going to try some cuts at various depths. When I cut the ZCI the blade wobbled/vibrated enough to widen the slot a bit on the underside in the first few inches of blade contact.
For now the trunnion is fine for me since I only need flat, where it is on the stop, and 45* where the gear is fine.
As suggested above I'm going to try some cuts at various depths. When I cut the ZCI the blade wobbled/vibrated enough to widen the slot a bit on the underside in the first few inches of blade contact.
Belt tension can be fixed as on cars, or even spring loaded as on my old Wards 8 inch, but gravity is pretty consistent and prevents over tightening the belt. At 25 bucks per tool the link isn't cheap but I like the quieting effect especially on lighter tools like a craftsman 12" bandsaw. Back to the saw blade issue: I had a local shop make me an old school combination blade with heavy plate and fat tips and I returned it immediately. With no damping slots or squiggles or any other measures to counter the resonances it has bouncing around it I went back to the Diablos. This was on the 1953 Unisaw. Energy storage I'd say.
Ezas,
If the arbor has runout, you might find that you can just replace the bearings and be good to go. The advantage to the old American made machinery is they almost aways used standard bearings that are still widely available. Any bearing house and maybe even your local auto parts may have them for not much money.
Also, you will likely need to take it apart and remove the bearings to get the standard numbers off of them. The Delta part number won't help you unless you want to buy direct from them. If you pull them and they're not available locally at an auto parts, go to a bearing house and they will usually be able to match them up for you.
She's old and may need a bit of tlc to get her back in shape but I think you'll be happy with her once you do.
Good luck,
Steve
If the arbor has runout, you might find that you can just replace the bearings and be good to go. The advantage to the old American made machinery is they almost aways used standard bearings that are still widely available. Any bearing house and maybe even your local auto parts may have them for not much money.
Also, you will likely need to take it apart and remove the bearings to get the standard numbers off of them. The Delta part number won't help you unless you want to buy direct from them. If you pull them and they're not available locally at an auto parts, go to a bearing house and they will usually be able to match them up for you.
She's old and may need a bit of tlc to get her back in shape but I think you'll be happy with her once you do.
Good luck,
Steve
Last edited:
Ezas,
Forgive me if you already know all of this:
I neglected to mention that usually you will have a choice of bearing types. You will want to use sealed bearings for the arbor.
Buy good ones. I usually try to get Timkin or SKF and I search to find ones that are made in America. With Timkin, the same part number will be sourced from mulitple places and you can see it on the boxes. I'm not sure how critical it really is now, because many of the US firms are now manufacturing overseas and the quality has substantially improved. However, when given the choice, I will buy USA made even if they cost more.
Finally, you will likely need to press the arbor assembly apart to replace the bearings and reassemble it. Any machine shop will be able to help you with this if you don't have press handy and they likely won't charge much to do it.
Or
As mentioned in the manual, you could contact Delta and see if they'd still be willing to change the bearings for you.
Good luck and have fun!
Steve
Forgive me if you already know all of this:
I neglected to mention that usually you will have a choice of bearing types. You will want to use sealed bearings for the arbor.
Buy good ones. I usually try to get Timkin or SKF and I search to find ones that are made in America. With Timkin, the same part number will be sourced from mulitple places and you can see it on the boxes. I'm not sure how critical it really is now, because many of the US firms are now manufacturing overseas and the quality has substantially improved. However, when given the choice, I will buy USA made even if they cost more.
Finally, you will likely need to press the arbor assembly apart to replace the bearings and reassemble it. Any machine shop will be able to help you with this if you don't have press handy and they likely won't charge much to do it.
Or
As mentioned in the manual, you could contact Delta and see if they'd still be willing to change the bearings for you.
Good luck and have fun!
Steve
Last edited:
Steve I appreciate all the info. I can turn all the motor stuff over to a friend of mine who is very good with all things mechanical.
I went to HF and got the link belt. I figured it was with it to isolate any other vibration.
Tomorrow is table saw day. Today was finish my work bench day.
I have to finish my ZCI and install the splitter. Then I'm going to cut dados in the bottom of my cross-cut sled which will be my first real use of the saw.
I'll see where that gets me. If things look good I'll get serious about getting a new blade.
An 8" saw should not have any issue with a slightly larger blade like say 8" otherwise what should I look out for?
I went to HF and got the link belt. I figured it was with it to isolate any other vibration.
Tomorrow is table saw day. Today was finish my work bench day.
I have to finish my ZCI and install the splitter. Then I'm going to cut dados in the bottom of my cross-cut sled which will be my first real use of the saw.
I'll see where that gets me. If things look good I'll get serious about getting a new blade.
An 8" saw should not have any issue with a slightly larger blade like say 8" otherwise what should I look out for?
Ezas,
I'd take the tension off the belt and try VERY GENTLY rocking the blade side to side. If the bearings are shot, you will feel movement. Don't know how best to describe this, you're not looking to rock the blade "front to back" how it normally spins, but rather side to side if that makes sense??? What you're feeling for is slop in the bearings that will let the blade "wobble" back and forth. Wobble translates to sloppy cuts. You really shouldn't feel any side to side play - or very minimal at most. If you want to be really anal about it, put a dial indicator on it. Honestly, unless it was used a lot, I'd be surprised if the bearings are shot. But one never knows and it's worth checking.
8" blade should be just fine and yes, I'd buy a new one. A dull blade will walk all over the place. You'll be blaming the saw when it could easily be caused by the blade.
You buddy sounds like the perfect source to help out with the bearings if it needs them.
Can't really think of much else. New belt and good bearings are the most important. Beyond that, it's just getting used to using it.
Good luck,
Steve
I'd take the tension off the belt and try VERY GENTLY rocking the blade side to side. If the bearings are shot, you will feel movement. Don't know how best to describe this, you're not looking to rock the blade "front to back" how it normally spins, but rather side to side if that makes sense??? What you're feeling for is slop in the bearings that will let the blade "wobble" back and forth. Wobble translates to sloppy cuts. You really shouldn't feel any side to side play - or very minimal at most. If you want to be really anal about it, put a dial indicator on it. Honestly, unless it was used a lot, I'd be surprised if the bearings are shot. But one never knows and it's worth checking.
8" blade should be just fine and yes, I'd buy a new one. A dull blade will walk all over the place. You'll be blaming the saw when it could easily be caused by the blade.
You buddy sounds like the perfect source to help out with the bearings if it needs them.
Can't really think of much else. New belt and good bearings are the most important. Beyond that, it's just getting used to using it.
Good luck,
Steve
Last edited:
A cursory check of play in the bearing when I first got the saw revealed no looseness. That 'part' of the saw will be getting a good going over today. Eventually I'll get to some test cuts.
I'm not sure if you meant any 8" blade, but my question is about slightly oversized blades say 8-1/4" - 8-3/8. (maybe I'm being silly but I figure better to check before buying an expensive blade). I know the old blade was mostly used to chew though 2x4's, ply, etc. So a new/sharp one is part of starting out with a well running saw.
I'm not sure if you meant any 8" blade, but my question is about slightly oversized blades say 8-1/4" - 8-3/8. (maybe I'm being silly but I figure better to check before buying an expensive blade). I know the old blade was mostly used to chew though 2x4's, ply, etc. So a new/sharp one is part of starting out with a well running saw.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.