Hi,
I can't find any specs on the Samsung LTM150XP anywhere. I know it's XGA and 15" but I'd like to know what the contrast ratio and response time is like. Does anyone know thses details or where I can find them?
I assume it's close to the well-liked 150MP but that assumption isn't enough to get me to shell out for it.
Thanks for reading.
-j
Alternatively, does anyone know if the board that runs the LTM150XP could be used on another screen, like the one in the 150MP?
I can't find any specs on the Samsung LTM150XP anywhere. I know it's XGA and 15" but I'd like to know what the contrast ratio and response time is like. Does anyone know thses details or where I can find them?
I assume it's close to the well-liked 150MP but that assumption isn't enough to get me to shell out for it.
Thanks for reading.
-j
Alternatively, does anyone know if the board that runs the LTM150XP could be used on another screen, like the one in the 150MP?
This expired Ebay auction listed it at 300:1 contrast, but didn't have the response time.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...6&category=3698&sspagename=STRK:MEBWA:IT&rd=1
It's designed to double as a TV, so hopefully the screen is fast enough.
I've been looking at some of the driver board kits, do you know where I can find the panel?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...6&category=3698&sspagename=STRK:MEBWA:IT&rd=1
It's designed to double as a TV, so hopefully the screen is fast enough.
I've been looking at some of the driver board kits, do you know where I can find the panel?
According to the seller it's for a Samsung SyncMaster 152N, if that helps you. I found a place in my city (Halifax) that said they could get parts like the matching panel but they were also jerks and I haven't heard from them since I asked them to check into the 152N.
Good luck with it. I'll let you know how mine turns out.
-j
Good luck with it. I'll let you know how mine turns out.
-j
Samsung SyncMaster™ 152n
Followed up on previous post by checking out the 152n. Here is what Samung says:
-330:1 contrast ratio
-0.297mm pixel pitch,
-1024 x 768 maximum resolution
-scanning frequency of 30-60 KHz horizontal and 56-75 vertical -horizontal/vertical viewing angle of 140°/120°.
-maximum of 16.2 million colors
Oddly, PC World says the 152n has 24 bit (16.7 million) color. Also, PC World says the response time is 30 mS.
The LTM150XP has S-Video, Composite, and Coaxial inputs and a TV tuner while the 152n appears not to, so I'm not convinced that it and the LTM150XP are one and the same.
Followed up on previous post by checking out the 152n. Here is what Samung says:
-330:1 contrast ratio
-0.297mm pixel pitch,
-1024 x 768 maximum resolution
-scanning frequency of 30-60 KHz horizontal and 56-75 vertical -horizontal/vertical viewing angle of 140°/120°.
-maximum of 16.2 million colors
Oddly, PC World says the 152n has 24 bit (16.7 million) color. Also, PC World says the response time is 30 mS.
The LTM150XP has S-Video, Composite, and Coaxial inputs and a TV tuner while the 152n appears not to, so I'm not convinced that it and the LTM150XP are one and the same.
Stripping LTM150XP
My prestripped LTM150XP came today. I connected the screen to my PC before stripping, it looked good. I removed the frame and the reflector casing, and disconnected the inverter. Once it was disconnected I was able to seperate the LCD from all the reflective material. There was also a block of acrillic inside and a few plastic sheets. I think they were optimized for distributing light from the cold flourescents, and would not be useful in a projection setup. However, I'd welcome a correction if this is not so. There were a couple times that I was sure I fubared something, but when I put the LCD on my overhead and connected everything it semed to work. Hooray!
I'm going to have to build some sort of enclosure, but in the meantime I have everything on a panel of glass. I'll scotch tape the circuit boards so they stop sliding aroung, aim a fan at the LCD, and see how a movie looks when it gets dark.
This panel was prestripped and most of my work was already done, but man, I felt like I was defusing a bomb.
My prestripped LTM150XP came today. I connected the screen to my PC before stripping, it looked good. I removed the frame and the reflector casing, and disconnected the inverter. Once it was disconnected I was able to seperate the LCD from all the reflective material. There was also a block of acrillic inside and a few plastic sheets. I think they were optimized for distributing light from the cold flourescents, and would not be useful in a projection setup. However, I'd welcome a correction if this is not so. There were a couple times that I was sure I fubared something, but when I put the LCD on my overhead and connected everything it semed to work. Hooray!
I'm going to have to build some sort of enclosure, but in the meantime I have everything on a panel of glass. I'll scotch tape the circuit boards so they stop sliding aroung, aim a fan at the LCD, and see how a movie looks when it gets dark.
This panel was prestripped and most of my work was already done, but man, I felt like I was defusing a bomb.
LTM150XH
I haven't been able to find specs for the LTM150XP on samsung.com, but I just noticed another serial on my kit - LTM150XH. So the kit has XH on the front and XP on the back for some reason. Anyhow here is a link to the XH specs:
http://www.samsung.com/Products/Semiconductor/TFTLCD/LCD_TV/LTM150XH/LTM150XH.htm
I haven't been able to find specs for the LTM150XP on samsung.com, but I just noticed another serial on my kit - LTM150XH. So the kit has XH on the front and XP on the back for some reason. Anyhow here is a link to the XH specs:
http://www.samsung.com/Products/Semiconductor/TFTLCD/LCD_TV/LTM150XH/LTM150XH.htm
Sweet
Tried a movie out with the LTM150XP on my overhead. The stage isn't big enough for a 15" LCD, so I ran the movie windowed (800x600 or greater). Even at that resolution it's much better than my Nview Z115 was. Now I've got to scrape the cash together to build an enclousure and so forth, so it will be a while before an update. I took a picture of my current jury rigged setup, I'll post it for laughs Monday.
Tried a movie out with the LTM150XP on my overhead. The stage isn't big enough for a 15" LCD, so I ran the movie windowed (800x600 or greater). Even at that resolution it's much better than my Nview Z115 was. Now I've got to scrape the cash together to build an enclousure and so forth, so it will be a while before an update. I took a picture of my current jury rigged setup, I'll post it for laughs Monday.
I got my pre-stripped XP a little while ago and watched a bit of a movie on it. I thought it looked pretty good except for some ghosting and I figured the response time just wasn't fast enough. It's useful as it is for other projects I'm working on so it's not a big deal.
I'd like to ask though: did you find it straightforward getting the backlight off? I thought it looked like one of those super-thin, easy-to-break ribbony thingys. It was another part of my decision not to go any farther with it.
Looking forward to your pics.
-j
I'd like to ask though: did you find it straightforward getting the backlight off? I thought it looked like one of those super-thin, easy-to-break ribbony thingys. It was another part of my decision not to go any farther with it.
Looking forward to your pics.
-j
Ribbons
The backlight was really easy to remove once I found out I could disconnect the inverter board. It does nothing more than power the flourescents in the backlight. There were 2 screws holding a circuit board in a folded position behind the backlight. I took them out and folded it out of the way (180 deg). It is connected by 8 short plastic ribbons which seem fairly flexible. So disconnect inverter-> unscrew board behind panel-> fold it back-> unlock all the pry points-> and the backlight comes right off.
I haven't seen any ghosting on mine, I think 25 mS is the correct figure.
The backlight was really easy to remove once I found out I could disconnect the inverter board. It does nothing more than power the flourescents in the backlight. There were 2 screws holding a circuit board in a folded position behind the backlight. I took them out and folded it out of the way (180 deg). It is connected by 8 short plastic ribbons which seem fairly flexible. So disconnect inverter-> unscrew board behind panel-> fold it back-> unlock all the pry points-> and the backlight comes right off.
I haven't seen any ghosting on mine, I think 25 mS is the correct figure.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.