Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator

This is the best manual solder sucker I have found so far... ENGINEER SS-02

Ha ha, that youtuber don't recommend it due to blockages. Not a good choice of video to link to.:D

Is interesting the tip is made from silicone. I'm been using a RS branded solder sucker for almost 20 years and still performing well. However, I go through quite alot of Teflon tips due to burns so may try sliding on a silicone tube to see if it's more effective and last longer.
 
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40 year old boards are single sided not plated through. Use solder wick and patience. Best is to have a vacuum desoldering gun with such modern boards. In despair cut the leg and suck out what's left in the plated hole. Replenish solder on the pad, it helps the suction tool.

This one also has large copper areas due to shield layer and large islands at points that pull thermal capacity. Its also made with heavy oz copper. If your iron is variable set it to 390C. 60W is good. Use flux too. Keep the desoldering area wet with new solder. You can also heat from one side and cover the other side with the suction tool better.

got the mosfets out. all got destroyed in the provcess of couse so i cant test them. the wick did not help much but putting new solder on it to conduct heat did help. im gonna but a better soldering station. my weller now is 60 watt station but the pencil iron itself is 42 watt.

I only wish that last week instead of advising me to get a soldering station that goers above 390C you should have just told me that a desoldering station is the only remedy. i already had a good 60 watts weller but i bought a new 90 watt weller because i thought going hotter is the solution. but again I think that what you are doing here has been very valuable to me and i appreciate it and please keep up this great work.

I don't see where I advised you to get a new iron and I did not mention a vacuum desoldering gun.
 
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I have now mounted M1 and M2 onto a thick sheet of aluminium which is bolted to the metal casing. With a load connected the temperature is around 55C. Is this OK for normal usage?

I noticed that the voltage slowly ramps up (about 3 seconds) to the operating voltage, this is causing problem to my Project Phono which have delayed relays operating during power on. Can the voltage made to stabilise quicker?

Salas, your Ultrabib has improved the sound quality on my Project Phono RS preamp. Well done and thank you for sharing this. I've just finished putting the Ultrabib in a case and this is the first time I'm using the Ultrabib. I'm listening to my records and can say it has made given vocals a bit more clarity and space and can hear the different background instruments more clearly as separate entities.

55C is surely not a reliability problem. C2 charges up to reach max has to be an explanation, there is no turn on spike just a smooth curve that you can capture in single trigger if you set a scope very slow, how many uF C2 you use and what is the Vout?
 
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I think it was few hundreds of mSec for 220uF at 10V when I measured it. If you simply watch the scope moving up its DC line during start up you should get a pretty good visual clue. Its soft start, but if some application has issues with that you may cut its time in half by paralleling another 270R on top of each R5, R6, that would double the current supply to C2 and VR1 should be set half value lower of where it now is for same Vout. C2 100uF without other changes would produce the same decreased time too, but maybe you would object its ultralow frequencies more noise or not.
 
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Mine also ramps down slowly too if no load is connected but drops pretty quickly with a load (i.e. my preamp) connected.

Make sure there is enough CC setting for the load so enough spare current remains for the reg and its not nearly starved for current so that is why it reaches a target slower than others experience or it changes thermal settling behavior with and without the load. Paralleling some handy resistor value from the spares box on R1 to drop its value by 25% or something around that percentage should answer if this scenario holds any water.
 
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Hi, Could you give me the layout of board. I want to have it now for my project, because Mr Tea-Bag said that he start group buy at the end of this year.
Many thanks !!!

No, the production files are GB material. I just have my few green prototypes, (+/-) two sections only in basic quality, and I can send you one if you are in a big hurry. PM me if so.
 
hi salas,

i want to power a soekris board with your 1.3 bib. you already stated:

You need a 12-0-12 Vac 50VA transformer. You should also use a 2.2R 2W R1 on positive section's CCS/current limiter and a 3.3R 2W R1 on the negative section. Those are setting 270mA CCS on the positive and 180mA on the negative for a balanced spare current result since the Soekris draws less current from the negative side. I set the reg for +/-9 Vdc out on DimDim's recommendation.

do you think that a 30VA trafo has too little headroom, or would this type work e.g.:
Transformer R-CORE 30VA 12-0-12V + 1x9V - Audiophonics

it seems quite difficult to get the right r-core in europe, but i have to admit, i am very new to this DIY business :)

thanks in advance!
 
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It shows 8VA per 12V side, it should be just enough for the DAC because the above total CC setting quote calls for 2.7W averaged per side at 12VAC. Tx capability to load ratio must be high enough to run cool especially when for constant current and full bridge. R-Core does not get easily hot like EI. For Soekris further specifics I don't know, there are versions, so for better info on what's best voltage setting for what version etc. ask the experts in the Soekris threads. I just had DimDim's build around and we run an experiment back then.
 
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... But wait a moment. Forget it, that R-Core does not have four wires as 12V+12V, it only shows one BLK mid point, i.e. 12-0-12 three wires. The Ubibs need independent secondaries because they have one independent bridge in each polarity section.
 
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This one is good. Because it has four wires and it does not spend VA to a third auxiliary secondary. If you have the sinking a 15VAC version will run M1 hotter but also in higher VDS voltage the less internal pF makes M1 bit faster and it will be handy for other uses too like powering a +/-15V op-amps output stage in a future DAC for example.
 
I think it was few hundreds of mSec for 220uF at 10V when I measured it. If you simply watch the scope moving up its DC line during start up you should get a pretty good visual clue. Its soft start, but if some application has issues with that you may cut its time in half by paralleling another 270R on top of each R5, R6, that would double the current supply to C2 and VR1 should be set half value lower of where it now is for same Vout. C2 100uF without other changes would produce the same decreased time too, but maybe you would object its ultralow frequencies more noise or not.


Thank you Salas. After paralleling 270R to R5 and R6 the startup is much quicker. I've also increased R1 to 2R2 (was 1R5) as my preamp was only drawing 190mA @ 18V and not 300mA. As a consequence M1/M2 operating temperature is now about 40C which is much cooler compared to before at 70C.


Having done some listening, it could be my imagination but I found the sound quality not quite as good as before such as the vocals seem not as warm sounding. Would the change in value for R5 and R6 make an audible difference?
 
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The change in R5 R6 could be allowing for a slightly more noisy operation of the Vref transistors but I would consider it a trivial amount. I would suspect the change from 0.21A spare current to 0.082A to be audible. Do you have some resistor combination to create 0.15A spare? Like using 1.8 Ohm R1 resistor equivalent.