I am finishing my DCB1 build, and since I use will use it with several different amps(one being Aleph 5 monos), I am building it with caps on the output. In post# 295 Salas says to put 1M resisters after the caps so the caps will not be floating. Does this mean to run the caps to the ouput+ and then run the resistors from here to the output-? This is how it appears in the Marra's build photo in post# 342.
I'm curious which 10k step attenuator to choose for the hot rod DCB1?
-4x24 Ladder Type
-23 step
is there any technical advantage in the Ladder?
Noticed that many built their buffers with LDRs, is there a dramatic improvement over Dale step attenuator?
-4x24 Ladder Type
-23 step
is there any technical advantage in the Ladder?
Noticed that many built their buffers with LDRs, is there a dramatic improvement over Dale step attenuator?
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The ladder is simpler and much cheaper. I wanted the purest possible sound (fewest possible components in the signal path), so I went with the LDR (buildanamp.com). I relied on the advice of the DIYaudio members who have compared both and can hear a difference.
cheers Mike,
thanks for the link! I might consider LDR as well.
As I've understood the 2nd one I've listed is not of a ladder type, isn't it?
Right, the second one is not a ladder, as it doesn't have enough resistors. It's a series type which works just like a conventional pot, only in increments.
If I understand correctly, the Ladder style attenuator is so called because each step uses two resistors, maintaining the input impedance to the same value at every step.
Also there is a max of 2 resistors in the circuit at all times. If you do decide to go ladder and remote control is of interest, there are several board-based designs around. Most have more than 23 steps, which allows finer adjustment. A 23 step usually allows for 3dB adjustments where a ladder array can get you to 0.5dB.
I didn't have any experience with those 2 attenuators you linked. I tried the other popular ebay dact clone. Then i decided to upgrade to the TKD 2511 (bought from percyaudio). The TKD is more expensive but it is MUCH better than those ebay attenuators and well worth the price. I think the DCB1 deserves a proper attenuator.I'm curious which 10k step attenuator to choose for the hot rod DCB1?
-4x24 Ladder Type
-23 step
is there any technical advantage in the Ladder?
Noticed that many built their buffers with LDRs, is there a dramatic improvement over Dale step attenuator?
I didn't have any experience with those 2 attenuators you linked. I tried the other popular ebay dact clone. Then i decided to upgrade to the TKD 2511 (bought from percyaudio). The TKD is more expensive but it is MUCH better than those ebay attenuators and well worth the price. I think the DCB1 deserves a proper attenuator.
This is a nice one - a 41-step series attenuator made with SMD resistors. A little pricey, though. The pictures on the site are old - it now has a steel enclosure.
A 23 step usually allows for 3dB adjustments where a ladder array can get you to 0.5dB.
got the point! thanks! then the 2nd one I remove from the list of candidates.
The TKD is more expensive but it is MUCH better than those ebay attenuators and well worth the price. I think the DCB1 deserves a proper attenuator.
Indeed this one is quite expensive. Moreover, it is said here that step attenuator could be even better, though TKD is superior than Alps which is 10(!) times less pricy... I have the blue one in my other opamp preamp, so would have a chance to compare if I go for a ladder type one.
Perhaps the ultimate LDR would be less expensive to build than TKD and sonically even a step over?! At least I would like to think in this way
This is a nice one - a 41-step series attenuator made with SMD resistors. A little pricey, though. The pictures on the site are old - it now has a steel enclosure.
Looks very beautiful
Buy the switch and the resistors and assemble them yourself.
too much of a hassle that would be. I'd rather go for LDR. I didn't put it in the list of the pots initially, however to gain the max performance from hot rodded up to 1.5A DCB1 I think I have to consider it along with proper toroid and careful BLs matching...
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